Folder for Bushcraft abuse?

M

MisterBrown

Joined
Aug 3, 2006
Messages
2
Hey all,
This is my first thread/post, although I've been lurking and learning for quite a while now, but I need some advice.

I've very recently gotten into practicing primitive skills, tracking, and survivalism type of stuff, and I go into the woods daily to do it. This type of work IMO generally necessitates a fixed blade, full tang knife with a blade of 3-4", with duties including use in building shelters, fire by friction, carving trap parts, general whittling etc. No really heavy use that comes to mind EXCEPT for gathering larger pieces of firewood. I've practiced batoning a knife and carving wooden wedges to split already sectioned pieces of wood, although I'll admit I'm not entirely sure how to section a dead tree or log into nice splittable pieces with just a knife and not an axe(?)

The problem is that I'm a student at a college which has regulations that a knife must be of the folding type and under 3", not to mention sheeple who would be uncomfortable at the site of a fixed sheath knife.

So I'd like to know what you would do. In my mind right now I'm thinking I need a tough as nails folder (don't care about the length restriction) that can be batoned carefully but fairly regularly and stand up to the abuse. From what I've gathered on the forums, I should be looking at the Spyderco Manix, Striders, possibly a large sebenza but they look too weak to me. From what I gather, the Strider would hold up the best but I don't know how I'd feel batoning a $400 folder.
 
Don't batton a folder! Try a SAK with a saw. How about keeping your fixed blade in your backpack and only taking it out once you're in the woods?

Anyway, there are plenty of good folders in small sizes, like the Mini-Griptilian by Benchmade, the Spyderco Delica 4, 80mm Spyderco Manix, Spyderco Paramilitary (it has a big comfy handle). If you feel like ignoring the blade length limit, a full size Griptilian or an Endura 4 might be a good choice. None of this knives are $400, the Manix and the Para are the most expensive of the bunch at around $100. Any of these combined with a SAK with a saw should be great, and the SAK can be used around sheeple.

I don't know if Striders are the best choice for bushcraft, they certainly are quality, hard use folders, but they don't look like you could whittle a spoon with them, a humble Opinel is probably better for that.
 
the knives you just mentioned have blades over 3inches

I'd just get a cheap fixed blade and hide it away
 
Franciscomv said:
Don't batton a folder! Try a SAK with a saw.
Click to expand...

Splitting by saw is very inefficient compared to sectioning with a blade.

MisterBrown said:
... I'm not entirely sure how to section a dead tree or log into nice splittable pieces with just a knife
Click to expand...

Cut wedges with the knife and use the wedges to split the wood. If you are splitting wood with a knife under 3" of blade then I assume the wood is smaller than that in size. Most decently solid folders can take the type of impacts to split that wood if necessary especially if you learn how to place the knife so as to minimize the strain on the lock. The Voyager series does it well for an inexpensive knife.

-Cliff
 
Whats the policy on small hatchets?
Maybe a 5" x 1" cold chisel to use as a wedge?
 
Have you looked at the 'Quest' folder as used by Tom Brown Jr's Survival school instructers?
 
MisterBrown said:
Hey all,
This is my first thread/post, although I've been lurking and learning for quite a while now, but I need some advice.

I've very recently gotten into practicing primitive skills, tracking, and survivalism type of stuff, and I go into the woods daily to do it. This type of work IMO generally necessitates a fixed blade, full tang knife with a blade of 3-4", with duties including use in building shelters, fire by friction, carving trap parts, general whittling etc. No really heavy use that comes to mind EXCEPT for gathering larger pieces of firewood. I've practiced batoning a knife and carving wooden wedges to split already sectioned pieces of wood, although I'll admit I'm not entirely sure how to section a dead tree or log into nice splittable pieces with just a knife and not an axe(?)

The problem is that I'm a student at a college which has regulations that a knife must be of the folding type and under 3", not to mention sheeple who would be uncomfortable at the site of a fixed sheath knife.

So I'd like to know what you would do. In my mind right now I'm thinking I need a tough as nails folder (don't care about the length restriction) that can be batoned carefully but fairly regularly and stand up to the abuse. From what I've gathered on the forums, I should be looking at the Spyderco Manix, Striders, possibly a large sebenza but they look too weak to me. From what I gather, the Strider would hold up the best but I don't know how I'd feel batoning a $400 folder.
Click to expand...

First off welcome to BF. I am not a fan of batoning blades through hard of soft wood as I carry a GB axe and use it for such tasks. However the skill is a good one to have and I have only used a fixed blade for the task. I have read more than a few threads regarding this folder:
http://www.knifeworks.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5115

Most regard the U2 as a tough as nails knife. I still would suggest a Mora or the like for the task. They are inexpensive, light weight, and IMHO handle the task well.
 
If you like Striders but don't want to pay the money, get a Buck Strider. (One of the 880 series, not the Tarani for hard use) They're much less expensive and still built like tank destroyers. I have both a 3" and 4" Buck Strider and they're both beasts. The 880SP (4") is ridiculous. I've heard stories of people managing to break one after trying really, really hard, but I can't imagine how you could possibly ruin one by actually using it. The blade is a bit thick for slicing, but boy can it chop. I paid $120 for mine.
 
a buck strider is not a bad idea as long as you get one of the early ones with a thicker liner, if you are batoning with a stick or wooden implement dont worry about the finish on a strider, they can take it just dont whack on anything but the blade. An sng is 3.5 inches long, an smf is 4 inches long. well worth it in my experience.
 
While this one might come as a suprise to some, don't overlook this folder from Buck, it's a 450 Protege.

I have REALLY abused this knife, batonning, scraping a firesteel and just general beat the crap out of it, and even though it has a synthetic handle, it has not developed even the slightest bladeplay or looseness.

Buck-450.jpg


It has really amazed me how much this folder has held up.
 
Get a Ritter RSK. This knife was designed for bushcraft and wilderness survival. It has been tested for batoning successfully. Doug Ritter (critter) himself recommends it for this kind of use. You might want to read this thread:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3115556#post3115556

If you are looking for an equivalent to a fixed blade, folders from Extrema Ratio probably are the best choice. Due to their their thick blades and incredible lock strength they can take any abuse but are not the best tools for fine cuts.
 
Thanks for the input, guys. I couldn't make up my mind so I ordered a 12" AK Khukuri for the real bushcraft and will get a solid folder for smaller jobs.
 
I'd suggest a Swiss Army knife. Saw, Awl, great whittling blade, grind the screwdriver into a chisel and you've got some nice woodworking tools. I've batoned with mine plenty of times and it's come out unscathed.

Opinels can get incredibly sharp and are also well suited for woodworking. Keep them out of water though, the handles will swell some. These are some of the best cutters out there, bar none. Their slicing ability will outclass knives 30 times their price.

If you aren't going to consider Swiss Army Knives or Opinels, then the Manix is plenty knife for the job. It's got a wonderful grind for all around tasks and can take batoning well. The D'allara Drop Point is something else you should consider. About half the price, very beefy and ergonomic.

The Buck 110 is also very, very stout for a 30$ knife.

In my practice, the need to baton and other such high impact jobs is fairly uncommon. The knives I listed are capable of it, but will outright excel other "sharpened prybars" in the chores that you will be doing most the time. Cutting vegetation, all types of whittling, cleaning game, notching sticks for traps, prepping fruits and vegetables for consumption etc. I've owned a decent variety of knives now, and the ones I take with me most often to the woods to do the same things you're doing is my Opinels and my SAKs.
 
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