Folder lock failures?

L

Lavan

Joined
Nov 8, 2000
Messages
2,301
OTHER THAN LINT...... Have any of you had a folder lock fail?

If so, which knife and what were you doing with/to it?

:confused:
 
The only lock failure I've experienced was from a cheap S&W SWAT, framelock POS, the lock failed many times, any downward pressure or twist on the blade and the lock popped open. I threw it away after it bit me.
 
I've only experienced 2 lock failures on my folders.

The first was on my Timberline Envoy. One of the smoothes liner locks I've ever handled, but I've found you have to snap the blade out with some force, otherwise the lock won't engage properly. Fortunately I didn't get bit, but it surprised me. I'd like to know if this is common on the Envoys, as it's a little awkward having to wrist-flick the knife every time I use it just to ensure that the lock is engaging properly.

The second was my Ka-bar Dozier. This is accountable to user error, but I was cutting a hard packing strap on some patio stones with a forward edge-up grip, and as I drew the knife through the strap, I must have white-knuckled the lockbar and the blade snapped through the strap and came to a rest on the web of my thumb with significant force :eek:. Fortunately I was wearing gloves at the time. I don't account this to a design flaw of the knife, just user error.
 
I had a $550 custom liner lock close on my fingers when I was cutting something below the surface of my desk, I raised the knife above the desk to close it and as I was bringing it up the tip hit the edge of the desk and the lock fail instantly. I'd say it had less than a pound of pressure on it.

Sorry, not going to say who made the knife but everyone here has heard of him.
 
I guess I'm lucky. The only knives to ever fail on me were knives I bought to see if I coudl make them fail (a Maxam and a Master Cutlery). None of my real knives have ever suffered catastrophic lock failure (I prefer frame locks, or very hefty liners, and lockbacks to all other locks).

One of them that could easily fail was my former EDC (until today actually, just got my Camillus Heat in the mail today). The Kershaw Vapor II. It seemed that the lock wanted to engage at two different places. There was a snap that sounded like the frame was in place, and under minimal pressure it seemed that the knife was locked. But it wasn't, just the blade coming off the indent that kept it closed. So it took a little extra flipping motion to engage the lock fully. It never bit me but surprised me once when I started pressing down on something to cut it and the blade snapped again into the fully engaged position. With some wear and militec it wasn't a problem to just flip it open normally.

Most of my hard knife use is done with big fixed blades (chopping through vines, cutting down small trees, etc). And as yet, neither my Ka-Bars or RTAK have closed on my finger.
 
I had a Queen Button Lock that froze. I sent it in for repair/replacement, but they could only offer a refund since the knife was discontinued. Too bad, the knife had a very good 'feel' to it.

-Bob
 
I have a CRKT Hammond Grey Ghost Mirage that fails the spine-whack-test every single time.

Allen.
 
CRKT is a great company, selling good knives at reasonable prices and cool designs. It is a shame that their folders seem to have a problem with lock failure, or I would Be a very avid Columbia River supporter.
But, until i know my fingers are safe, i will mistrust any CRKT folder i pick up.
 
I've had plenty that would fail doing a moderate spine whack test. The old CRKT mirages, AMK SERE 2000, MOD Hornet, Benchmade 806D2, The original run of Gerber Applegate/Fairbairn folders. Truthfully I'm more surprised when one won't fail than when it will. The AMK actually failed when I was batoning it through a 3/4 in sabling...this was after I had gotten it back from the factory :confused:
 
CRKT Red Dog linerlock. The liner slipped, put a 3-stitch cut in my index finger, and have permanent nerve damage. I've also had some CCC knockoffs that would fail, but those aren't real knives anyway.
 
Chad, did the maker take care of the problem? If not, then I think it would be a service to potential buyers to know who it is. If he did take care of it, then I would agree with not mentioning a name.
 
LFH said:
what is a spine whack test?
Click to expand...

Get a friend, and a really big stick. Have said friend whack you in the spine with the really big stick. If you can still operate your knife...

Well... that's one kind of spine whack test. But what everyone is talking about is taking the knife, in the open position, and lightly hitting the spine against the table.

One of three things will most likely happen: 1.) The lock will fail and close, 2.) the lock will fail and forever be stuck in the open position (common problem with liner locks), or 3.) absolutely nothing (the ideal result).
 
What about:

4.) Develop bad blade play from these tests, void warrenties and most of aaaaaalllllll, anger knife gods. :D
 
Lobo103 said:
I've had plenty that would fail doing a moderate spine whack test.
Click to expand...

Please, would you describe what a moderate spine whack is?

To me hard is, when the spine marks the hard wood plate 1mm deep, depending on the false edge (a sharper false edge cuts deeper).

As i did hard whacks on my 806, and nothing happened, i am not sure where my hard ones start and where your moderates end. :)
 
a mod spine whack is to open the knife and lightly tap it on your palm/etc to make sure it is locking correctly, imho this wont hurt any decent knife, some wack the heck outta tables/etc, not neccesary and abusive imho.

the lock failures i have had were on a CRKT kasper and a REKAT sifu,
 
SIFU1A said:
a mod spine whack is to open the knife and lightly tap it on your palm/etc
Click to expand...
If this is a moderate spine whack, what is a light one?

Blop said:
...moderate spine whack is?
Click to expand...
Light would be similar stress to accidental impacts, such as jerk the knife out of something and have the spine hit on the edge of a table.

Moderate would exceed these and move into actually hitting the spine on something intentionally, or the previous action done with near full exertion.

Heavy would be Spyderco level impact rating, actually hit the spine with a baton as hard as you can hold onto the blade.

You can readily get locks to pass all three without effect on the lock.

Excessive would be to baton the knife through something with heavy force, this will damage almost all locks.

-Cliff
 
I just cut stuff--no spine whacking, chopping, batoning, etc.--with folders. I've not had any locks fail. In fact, the only slipjoint that ever closed on my hand was when I was a kid, maybe 50 years ago.
 
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