Folder rehash

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unky_gumbi

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Aug 28, 2009
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A while back I started a design for a liner lock folder. I had the design pretty much finalized, but I put it on the back burner because of my tooling and that i wanted to make a few more fixed blades first.

I just finished cutting out and profiling the chefs knife that I am going to do for my mother and I have enough left over in one of the cut offs to make the blade for the folder. Thing is I think I would like to do a frame lock instead of a liner lock. I have read and re read Bob Terzuola's The Tactical Folding Knife, and do so about once a month because I enjoy the information in it.

The question I have is there much of a difference between the geometry of a liner lock and a frame lock, if any? I can see there being some because the frame lock bar is much thicker than the liner lock bar. I can also see there being a bit of a difference on the locking area of the blade's tang.

So any pointers would help a lot, I will probably cut out and profile the blade tomorrow, but that is as far as I will go with it till I have a better idea of the lacking area. If I feel that the frame lock is out side my abilities I will just go back to the liner lock.

Thanks
George

This is the original design, I have modified the blade a touch but that is it
folder.jpg
 
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As far as I know, and please take that term loosely, there is not much difference in locking geometry. The only difference I noticed in theory was keeping the frame lock from bending backwards with a clip, or other restraint mechanism.

I am curious about this as well, and look forward to hearing from more experienced makers.
 
Hi George.
They are not difficult to make, but if you make errors to the fit or geometry you should correct them now. They will becme difficult to correct later.Here is how I start.After making a hard pattern of Arborite or other thin hard material , I cut two rectangles of titanium large enough for a liner. I position the hard pattern on each and mark the pivot hole. I drill these with a No. 32 bit and then ream with a 1/8 reamer. I cut the outline of the blade, drill the pivot hole with the No. 32 and use the 1/8" reamer. I find the position for the pivot pin and drill a hole and counter sink it for the screw that will go into the thumb stud. I grind all blades after heat treat but lots are done before by other people.I now decide how long the bolsters will be. The outline of the one liner can now be done.The tapping holes can now be drilled on the ONE liner only for the bolster and for the scales as well. I now place the blade in a closed position and draw a line around the cuting edge where it is next to the spacer or back bar will be. I now place the blade and liner together with a pivot pin ot 1/8" drill bit and size the blade or liner or both to fit top and bottom and blade back end. I now position four tapping holes to hold the spacer bar. I lest the blade to fit to and bottom and back and size either the blade or liner or both as necessary.I take this liner, place it over top of rectangle for the second one, place a 1/8 pivot pin or drill end in the pivot holes and clamp to two pieces together and now drill all the tapping holes through and mark the outline of the second liner.I grind this outline. Place the first liner on top of the second and use at least three of the tapping size drill bits to hold the two together while you go around and size them together.
It must be understood that all burrs must be removed as you go either on a flat table or with a drill bit mounted id a hand chuck of some sort. An old drill chuck works well.
There's your start George. To see some of my work go to customknifegallery.com scroll down on the left hand side to find my name. Frank
 
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