folding knife for edc/survival/boat

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boogeyman

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Hi, name is Adam. I'm a newb to knives and am looking to learn a little so I can buy myself a relatively nice folder. At present, most expensive folder I have is from Frost Cutlery. What a p.o.s. ! Anyways, I'm looking for a knife that I can conceal relatively easy but has a blade which is long enough to be utilitarian. Also, the blade will need to resist corrosion and hold an edge fairly well. At the moment I'm looking at the spyderco native. I'm just not sure if I should go with the S30V over the G10 for corrosion resistance, because the G10 is supposed to be easier to sharpen (a big + in my book). Any comments on this model? Also, God forbid I ever found myself in a survival situation... should I opt for a smooth or serrated blade? If you have a better reccomendation than the native, by all means let me know. max price is $150Thanks for your time.
 
Welocome Aboard!
The Native is a good choice, and the Calypso Jr. is an even better one, IMHO.
 
I would be looking at the Spyderco Salt series.

I have one, and have actively been trying to get it to rust.
In the saltiest naturally-occurring water on earth, as far as I know.

No success, except around one of the washers.

That blade is fine.
 
I will second the recommendations for the Spyderco Salt series.
If your max price is $150, try a Spyderco Paramilitary or Manix. You can find these within your price range if you search around the web... A lot more knife for the money.

Also, check out Benchmade and Emerson. They're excellent knives, and once again, a lot of knife for your money.

By the way, G10 is a handle material, not a blade steel...

Peace.
 
I THINK he may mean (V)G-10, but that's only a guess.

Anyhoo, I'd say either a Spyderco Salt, or if $150.00 is the limit, then I may go for one of David Boye's Dendritic Cobalt knives. If you're going to be cutting cardboard and such then I'd go for the Salt models because they are actually made of a steel, and so should resist deforming on harder materials better than the cobalt.

Sincerely,
Anthony

Edited to add: You might be able to find a used Camillus CUDA EDC in Talonite as well. However, the caviats from the Cobalt extend to Talonite. For harder stuff you may want to go with the Salt series.
 
sorry, forgot about the V. I like the idea of the salt series but don't care for the tips. How does H1 sharpen up? Also, how does VG10 stand up against corrosion. I know it's not as good as S30V but the ease of sharpening is very appealing.
 
Welcome :thumbup:

H1 sharpens up great. I have sharpened me Pacific/SE to the point of popping hair and shaving paper with the plain edge tip.
I would go for serrations with H1 because they cut like a demon and the edgeholding is great(comparable with ATS55) the plain edge lies between AUS6 and AUS8(edeholding that is)
Just do a search on the forums for H1 steel.
 
 
S30V is a great steel that can easily get razor sharp, all my knives with S30V are definately razor sharp. With that said I would get spyderco or benchmade. Also If I were you and had the money I would get an SAK as well, the two are a very practical combination.
 
G-10 is compressed fiberglass 10 layers thick and makes up the handle scales of many fine knives.

WR
 
You may or may not need great corrosion resistance...

It depends on what you're using your knife for and how you care for it. Do you work in or around a lot of salt water? Cut much meat with your knife? Do you live in a very hot and humid environment?

In most cases, I'd go with whatever I consider a good steel. I like both S30V and VG-10. If you keep the knife clean and wipe it down, I don't think you'll have a problem with corrosion. I've carried carbon steel knives in hot, humid weather against my sweaty body and all they did was develop some patina. No rust.
 
There are a few days out of every month where I'm island hopping in s. florida. I don't cut rope, shrubs, wood, or anything of that nature. I really just need a light-weight knife that won't be dragging my board shorts down. It might need to cut a lime, whittle a marshmellow spear, cut a aluminum can, stab/slice a fish, and be there for protection in the meantime. The salt series looks great; but, unless you are a sailor and you plan on cutting rope in seas greater than 12 feet, the whole rescue styled point is worthless.

The centofante III also looks good and it is on the lower end of my price range right in their with the native. Opinion on which model would best suit me?

In S30V vs. VG-10 how much more difficult is one to sharpen than the other?
 
If you like the Native, go for it. I have the plain edge s30v Native, the only problem that I have with it is it is technically illegal in Chicago (blade length must be less than 2.5", Native is around 3"). Other than that I've been happy with it.

The Native is one of the best bang for the buck knives out there IMO. Hard to beat the price for getting s30v and American workmanship. I don't care where my knife comes from, but I know there are many out there that like to buy American, and the s30v Native is just that.

Since you've been looking at Spyderco, I'd say just pick what you like. There is no bad apples in their lineup, everything is made well, and they have excellent customer service & warrenty. You shouldn't have to worry too much about rust with vg-10, s30v, and especially h-1.
 
If corrosion resistance really is a concern, go with the Spyderco Salt series. I always read that everyone is trying to get the H1 to rust, but I never read they actually succeed at doing so. Let alone that I read that H1 rusts without someone trying to persuade it.
Spyderco has great quality anyway, and the opening hole is a major advantage over any other knife. Durable, light, easy handling, easy carrying,...what else do you want ?
 
boogeyman said:
The salt series looks great; but, unless you are a sailor and you plan on cutting rope in seas greater than 12 feet, the whole rescue styled point is worthless.
Click to expand...

They're available with a few tip styles. The Salt I and Pacific Salt have tips that you may like better if you've only seen the Atlantic Salt.
 
I had a problem with slight discolored spots on my rittergrip in s30v from what I believe was rinsing it off in the sink and not getting the water off of the blade thoroughly enough (yeah, my fault, but something to think about).
 
If you're in Salt water frequently, you'll need a knife with corrosion-resistant steel. If you actually get wet in saltwater, or you're not particularly fastidious about cleaning your knives, you'll want a knife steel with extremely high corrosion resistance. I own a variety of knives with SS blades, including most of the models mentioned thus far, and I frequent the hyper saline Laguna Madre in Texas. Findings:

The more common "High Carbon" Stainless; BG42, S30V, ATS-34/CPM eq. will rust quickly, especially with a coarse or bead-blasted finish. Rough finishes will rust before you get home to cleanup. A polished finish appears to rust somewhat less, and is easier to buff out, but still ugly.

The "medium-carbon" S Steels like AUS 8-10, 440C will rust, but only if they're wet in salt water for extended period, and or if you neglect to clean them. I carried a Native (Older model, AUS-10) with little to no rusting for many years. occasional surface discoloration, but I cleanup after every trip. I took one extended trip - 4 days into the ocean where I did not clean the native at all. Result: surface discoloration and pitting. Sad. I should note that when I am at the ocean, I am in the water, with knife on shorts, frequently submerged. Cleanup is limited to rinse with freshwater, and that is mostly symbolic, since, it's going right back into the water.

The only steel knife I own that will not rust in salt water - or hyper saline water is the Pacific Salt. H1 Steel. H1 steel is serviceable in use, easy to sharpen, takes a fine edge, but my expereience is that it does not have the durability of medium to high carbon SS. I read it is more durable in serrated profiles.

Edited to add: Point styles - If you're on a boat, you do not want a sharp point on a utility. Period. It doesn't take 12' seas to stick a blade into your other hand. I find that anything over 3' seas on a 24' or under boat is all you need for that. My opinion is that the Pacific Salt profile is ideal for marine utility use. A drop-point style like the native is usable, but using a sharp-pointed blade on the ocean is strictly for professionals, and look at their hands next time you get a chance.
 
how does talonite stand up against H1?

esanborn- Am I a professional? No. I have won a few fishing tournaments though and have been a first mate on yachts in the 50-100' range. I no longer work in the boating industry but have a flats boat of my own. This knife is not going to have to cut through heavy duty stuff. Never once have I wished that my knife has had a blunt tip. The only reason why I'm saying these things is because in a previous post of mine I had mentioned that I don't like the Salt series because of the blunt tips; without mentioning that hearing H1 tends to be more durable in serrated form is also a turnoff (combo blades suck too!). I appreciate your response; but, don't respond unless you are going to read. I need a knife that can function on the boat and off the boat. Fact is, in a last ditch defense effort, I want a sharp point that will go through something or someone. If that same sharp point accidentally pokes my own hand then I can have yet another scar. That's all. I just want a all around good knife that isn't going to get eaten up by the ocean. Yes, I will be maintaining the knife and will probably even purchase some marine tuff cloth.

At the moment I am set on the spyderco centofante; but, am unsure if I should wait til the IV comes out with a wharncliffe blade. What blade style suits my needs? I know that from the prototype pics that the IV looks better!
 
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