Food safe finish for wood

J

jball1125

Joined
Aug 26, 2011
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What do you guys use? I have been reading up a bit and have found more or less the same results anywhere I look. Either mineral oil, tung oil, bfs oil or a salad bowl finish.

Still I would like to see some more opinions. What do you use, why, what's your process, etc....

The handles I'll be treating are stabilized ironwood.
 
I use mineral oil, just wipe it on fairly heavy, let it sit for a few, and wipe it off. Reapply as needed. Works great on my cutting boards and turned wooden serving bowls. I actually saved an older neglected cutting board that was separating by applying mineral oil and covering it with plastic wrap. Let it sit for a week or so and it flattened right out, the bigger gaps are smaller and the small ones are gone. It darkened up the wood a bit but not bad. Older items I have done this to need less and less over time. Not sure how it will react to the ironwood.
 
HeavyHanded said:
I use mineral oil, just wipe it on fairly heavy, let it sit for a few, and wipe it off. Reapply as needed. Works great on my cutting boards and turned wooden serving bowls. I actually saved an older neglected cutting board that was separating by applying mineral oil and covering it with plastic wrap. Let it sit for a week or so and it flattened right out, the bigger gaps are smaller and the small ones are gone. It darkened up the wood a bit but not bad. Older items I have done this to need less and less over time. Not sure how it will react to the ironwood.
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How often do you find yourself having to re-coat? I have read that mineral oil doesnt last very long...
 
If the wood is untreated up to that point, I'll have to touch it off every couple of months. As it goes I treat it less and less. Depends on how its being used I guess. I touch up the handles on my EDU knives once or twice a year, same as my cutting board. Turned bowls maybe about the same or even less often. Its very convenient as I also use it on my oil stones for sharpening, always have some on hand.
 
HeavyHanded said:
If the wood is untreated up to that point, I'll have to touch it off every couple of months. As it goes I treat it less and less. Depends on how its being used I guess. I touch up the handles on my EDU knives once or twice a year, same as my cutting board. Turned bowls maybe about the same or even less often. Its very convenient as I also use it on my oil stones for sharpening, always have some on hand.
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Thanks for the advice :thumbup:, :D
 
Everything I've heard about ironwood suggests it doesn't absorb much anyway (due to it's density). And, if the wood is stabilized (impregnated with poly resin under pressure), you may not need much at all, and it probably wouldn't absorb anything else anyway. That's essentially the goal of stabilizing wood in the first place, to make it impervious to any absorption of liquids (thereby preventing it from swelling/shrinking/warping/cracking/rotting; hence --> 'stable').

If anything, I'd think a very light rubbing of mineral oil occasionally, or some wax would be enough, just for aesthetics.

(I have a William Henry folder and two CR Sebenzas in stabilized ironwood, and have never needed to do anything to them, aside from wiping them down).


David
 
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Obsessed with Edges said:
Everything I've heard about ironwood suggests it doesn't absorb much anyway (due to it's density). And, if the wood is stabilized (impregnated with poly resin under pressure), you may not need much at all, and it probably wouldn't absorb anything else anyway. That's essentially the goal of stabilizing wood in the first place, to make it impervious to any absorption of liquids (thereby preventing it from swelling/shrinking/warping/cracking/rotting; hence --> 'stable').

If anything, I'd think a very light rubbing of mineral oil occasionally, or some wax would be enough, just for aesthetics.

(I have a William Henry folder and two CR Sebenzas in stabilized ironwood, and have never needed to do anything to them, aside from wiping them down).


David
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Reason I ask is because I have seen some makers put an intense amount of work into ironwood, Nick Wheeler comes to mind. I don't mind putting the work in just needed a good food safe oil to choose.
 
jball1125 said:
Reason I ask is because I have seen some makers put an intense amount of work into ironwood, Nick Wheeler comes to mind. I don't mind putting the work in just needed a good food safe oil to choose.
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Just looked at his site; he does have some beautiful examples in ironwood. He does mention he uses stabilized woods (including the ironwood), so I'd think they should be pretty simple to take care of. Was hoping to find an FAQ page on his site, to see if he recommends any special care, but I'm not seeing it there.

The examples I mentioned I have in stabilized ironwood (also have one in stabilized cocobolo), they all have the same look/feel to them. Hate to use the term for beautiful wood like this, but it has a 'plastic' quality to it, which points to the resin used to fill the wood. Once it's cured, it's essentially care-free and seemingly bulletproof. Doesn't absorb oils or liquids at all, and even seems to resist altering the surface finish by polishing. That's why I mentioned wax as a possible aesthetic treatment; it'll just be on the surface in a thin layer, which presumably could be shined up a bit.


David
 
Adding to my earlier comment, re: Nick Wheeler's use of stabilized woods...

On his own site, he references using woods and other materials from a company called 'Wood Stabilizing Specialists, Int'l.' Looking further at their site, they have a very informative description of how stabilization affects wood. It's actually excerpted from articles in Blade Magazine, and a couple other publications (woodworking, instrument-making), according to the credits there:

http://www.stabilizedwood.com/info.shtml

Here's a tiny tidbit quoted from the page above. There's a lot more to read there, beyond this:
"...You don't have to apply a finish to stabilized woods. You need only sand the work piece with a succession of 100-, 320-, and 400- grit abrasives, and then buff with a compound to bring out a deep sheen. A coat of wax protects the buffed surface...

...We achieved an even shinier surface, though (and one that doesn't require any maintenance), by sanding up to 320-grit paper and applying a water-based finish. Unlike untreated wood, the grain of stabilized wood does not raise when you apply a water-based finish...

...Oil-based finishes also work, but keep in mind that these will add a slight amber cast to the natural appearance of the wood. Stabilized woods do not accept stains, but we can't imagine many circumstances under which you would need to alter the already beautiful look of these woods."
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David
 
jball1125 said:
What do you guys use? I have been reading up a bit and have found more or less the same results anywhere I look. Either mineral oil, tung oil, bfs oil or a salad bowl finish.

Still I would like to see some more opinions. What do you use, why, what's your process, etc....

The handles I'll be treating are stabilized ironwood.
Click to expand...
"Stabilized"; what is that? Wood is alive (moves) forever unless encased in epoxy or fiberglass resin to keep humidity out. Ironwood (if you're talking the real thing; Ostrya virginiana, which is tough as nails but entirely nondescript for appearance) is known for it's ability to resist shrinkage and checking. I've used ordinary cooking oil (whatever is on hand) on cutting boards and such but not for knife handles. Teak&Tung (Minwax brand) has been good to me over the past 30 years for tools (knife scales, axe handles, wheelbarrows, shovels, gun stocks, rakes etc included). Quite a bit more durable than cooking oil and I suspect no more poisonous either. My experience with boiled linseed oil was dismal but then again this all happened (to me) 35 years ago. Could be I had a bad batch, did something wrong or it has vastly improved over the last 1/2 century.
I am an ardent fan of wood and always happy to hear of other people's experiences. Knives, axes and rifles, with synthetics or plastic all over them are impersonal and cold on the hands, and consequently do absolutely nothing for me.
 
jball1125 said:
Cool I love coconut. How does it hold up, does the smell turn rancid?
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excerpt from - http://healthimpactnews.com/2013/ho...-pans-and-conditioning-wooden-cutting-boards/

"Wooden cutting boards need to be conditioned between uses and one of the most common oil that is used is mineral oil. Now, if you’re like me, you will want to avoid mineral oil (even “food grade”), as it is a petroleum product, which can create a wide variety of health issues. Not something that I want to be exposing my food to. While you could use almost any oil to condition your cutting boards, it is wise to steer clear of olive and vegetable oils, as well as nut and seed oils, as they go rancid very quickly — yet something else you don’t want to expose your food to. My oil of choice? Coconut oil, of course!

Coconut oil has natural antimocrobial properties, making it a potent germ killer. Many people are afraid of using wooden cutting boards because they fear they cannot be sanitized properly to prevent illness (I was one of those people, believe it or not!), however, I have since learned that when properly cleaned and maintained, wooden cutting boards are perfectly safe. The antiviral, antibacterial, and antifungal properties of coconut oil come from the medium chain fatty acids/triglycerides (MCTs) found in this oil. Lauric acid is the most predominant MCT found in coconut oil and it packs a strong antimicrobial punch. Research has shown that microorganisms that are inactivated by coconut oil include bacteria, yeast, fungi, and enveloped viruses. All of this makes coconut oil a fantastic oil to use to treat and condition your wooden cutting boards and chopping blocks. In addition, wood itself, has been shown to have natural antimicrobial properties, so paired with the strength of coconut oil, there is very little to worry about in the way of germs."
 
roosterscrow said:
excerpt from - http://healthimpactnews.com/2013/ho...-pans-and-conditioning-wooden-cutting-boards/

"Wooden cutting boards need to be conditioned between uses and one of the most common oil that is used is mineral oil. Now, if you’re like me, you will want to avoid mineral oil (even “food grade”), as it is a petroleum product, which can create a wide variety of health issues. Not something that I want to be exposing my food to. While you could use almost any oil to condition your cutting boards, it is wise to steer clear of olive and vegetable oils, as well as nut and seed oils, as they go rancid very quickly — yet something else you don’t want to expose your food to. My oil of choice? Coconut oil, of course!

Coconut oil has natural antimocrobial properties, making it a potent germ killer. Many people are afraid of using wooden cutting boards because they fear they cannot be sanitized properly to prevent illness (I was one of those people, believe it or not!), however, I have since learned that when properly cleaned and maintained, wooden cutting boards are perfectly safe. The antiviral, antibacterial, and antifungal properties of coconut oil come from the medium chain fatty acids/triglycerides (MCTs) found in this oil. Lauric acid is the most predominant MCT found in coconut oil and it packs a strong antimicrobial punch. Research has shown that microorganisms that are inactivated by coconut oil include bacteria, yeast, fungi, and enveloped viruses. All of this makes coconut oil a fantastic oil to use to treat and condition your wooden cutting boards and chopping blocks. In addition, wood itself, has been shown to have natural antimicrobial properties, so paired with the strength of coconut oil, there is very little to worry about in the way of germs."
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You're the man bro. I'm off to buy some coconut oil online.
 
You can get coconut oil at Wal Mart. We use it for making reusable wipes for the baby. The stuff is awesome!

I use Danish Oil on my kitchen wood projects.

As far as mineral oil goes, I think that the claim that (usp) mineral oil is dangerous is horse pucky. Still, I really like coconut oil so I think I'll skip everything else and give it a shot.

Oh, they make a Butchers Block oil that is sold next to the other oils and stains at Lowes.
 
Strigamort said:
You can get coconut oil at Wal Mart. We use it for making reusable wipes for the baby. The stuff is awesome!

I use Danish Oil on my kitchen wood projects.

As far as mineral oil goes, I think that the claim that (usp) mineral oil is dangerous is horse pucky. Still, I really like coconut oil so I think I'll skip everything else and give it a shot.

Oh, they make a Butchers Block oil that is sold next to the other oils and stains at Lowes.
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What don't they sell at Wallyworld. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Strigamort said:
You can get coconut oil at Wal Mart. We use it for making reusable wipes for the baby. The stuff is awesome!

I use Danish Oil on my kitchen wood projects.

As far as mineral oil goes, I think that the claim that (usp) mineral oil is dangerous is horse pucky. Still, I really like coconut oil so I think I'll skip everything else and give it a shot.

Oh, they make a Butchers Block oil that is sold next to the other oils and stains at Lowes.
Click to expand...

Ditto to all that. And besides Walmart I think most grocery stores carry it with the other cooking oils. It makes great tasting popcorn.
 
Last thing, at Wal Mart it's sold in a tall white tub, not in a traditional oil bottle. The opening is large because it's in a solid state. Melts when you touch it.
 
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