I'm a huge fan of the swamp rat rat tail, but it may be a little small for what your looking for. I'm also a huge fan of the finn wolf from cold steel which is about as cheap as you can get for a capable woodcraft knife that has a non-puuko grind.
Peronally I've never liked puuko type grinds, or any type of grind that gets fat quickly. If it's not a high saber, hollow, or full flat, hollow or light convex it's probably going to be obtuse feeling enough in my hand that I'll trade out for something else. Certain busses get thick very very fast, they have a lot of metal behind the edge to prevent major damage during hard use. Two examples of this are the tank buster and the standard Boss street.
Here you can see the reletive size match up between the TTKZ and the boss street (which the CABS (choiless anorexic boss street) is fashioned after).
Both the original boss street and the tank buster had similarly thick tips. To give a visual example of how drastic the difference can be between busse's hard use edges and tips and their thinner slicing edges, here is a mini sus scrofa next to a tank buster
The mini sus scrofa is an amazing knife, but that big choil is (for people like me) a huge problem. The reason choils are negative is two fold. when you want to get a lot of control out of the edge for fine whittling tasks you want the edge very close to your hand. the farther away from your hand it gets, the less "blind indexing" you have (being able to know where the edge is without looking directly at it) and the harder your hand has to work at putting pressure on it due to poorer leverage. The second reason is hanging up on things like netting and vines, and anything fibrous and bunchy. example of what I'm talking about:
You could cut this with a choil by raking the edge across it, but this goes back to the blind indexing. I'd prefer to be
able to do this without having to look at my edge just because that makes everything easier and safer. You could also choke up into the choil (only if it's large enough to allow it) but I prefer to not have to do that because it takes more time and it's a compromised grip, your holding onto a piece of flat metal instead of the round contoured handle
All this brings me to the CABS. The cabs has several features that other busse's do not:
-truly compact; it doesn't waste space in between the index finger and the edge, and it doesn't have a lot of extra pommel sticking out past your pinky
-Thin in every regard; thin edge, thin tip, thin spine
-Full flat grind with a thin spine
-no choil
All of which are things I look for in a good bush craft knife, or any knife used for detail work and slicing. While there are several other busses that are in the smaller size category that would work for this such as the cultellus, mini sus scrofa, scotch dispenser, sar 3, active duty, leaner meaner street and game warden (as well as those mentioned from swamp rat and scrap yard knives) - they all suffer in one category or another listed above. They either are thicker, have more of a choil, have less edge or waste space in front of or in back of the hand.
The CABS is really a sluing off of features that are historically present on busse's in order to come to a simplified compact package that is as efficient as possible.
