For Bruce Bump... (and other competent damascus welders..)

anvilring

anvilring

Joined
Nov 29, 2000
Messages
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Thanks for your help with my welding... I'm still having problems though. Heat I've got in spades. I've had people tell me you can weld anything; rusty or not, pitted ect... that's just not the case is it? You told me you grind to white, nice and smooth first then tack weld the edges yes? How hard are you hitting the steel to make your welds? How heavy a hammer or have you gone to a press? And what is the maximum length of steel,(no matter if it's the first or subsequent welds), do you yourself weld? and do you do it all in one heat/weld?

thanks for the help!

regards,mitch
 
Hi Mitch. Yes I use a press but can weld with a hammer with medium blows. The press is nice because I can do everything with one finger. You never did answer my question about the flux? From what I see you have burnt steel that could have been prevented with flux. Anhydrous borax melts and covers and protects all the surfaces and also soaks in between the layers to prevent scale. Scale is a killer of welds. It simply cant weld if scale forms before you weld it. Another help to prevent scale is to have a reduced oxygen atmosphere inside the forge. Also be sure the billet is soaked in 2300 degree heat long enough to get the center 2300 degrees. Just because the fire is that hot doesnt mean the steel is yet. It should be the same lemon yellow color as the inside of the forge.

It may take several heats to complete the initial weld (remember you only have 5 seconds to weld it) and several more to draw it out.

I noticed you have uneven edges that need to be ground smooth before drawing out or else it will delaminate. Know what I mean?

Almost all my billets start out with an alternating stack of 1084 and 15n20 measuring 1/8" x 1" x 6" I can stack them up about 30 high because of the press but shorter stacks my be needed if you are welding with a hammer. I draw them out to about 3/8" x 1 1/4" x 18" and grind the scale off and chop them up into about 6 or 8 equal lengths and restack and reweld continuing until I have the layer count Im wanting.
 
my billet is swimming in it. And my forge is damn near the color of butter much less lemon! I've got a new pyrometer and intend to deploy it in the next few days, I'm to get my thermocouple tomorrow morn.

regards, mitch
 
What kind of flux do you use? Is it anhydrous borax? I sure like the borax that Bill Burke sells.
 
Well, I don't know if I would be considered competent, but I have done some forge welding using 1095 and 15N20 (or pure nickel). I start out with 17 layers of 1/16 material about 1 inch wide and 12 inches long. I don't have a press yet so I set all my welds with a 2 pound hammer and draw out my billet with my 25# Little Giant.

My first weld is about one inch in lengrh, then I work my way down the billet with over lapping blows. Do not hit too hard! I use a medium blow and dwell on the steel when setting the welds. Try not to tap, tap, tap, but more of a hit and sustain pressure on the billet after the impact for a half second or so. If you hit too hard or too fast, I think you will just shear your welds.

I do not mig weld my billets together, I just use wire ties. Once the initial welds are set, do all of your drawing at welding heat. I have not seen any difference between anhydrous borax and laundry borax as far as performance. Anhydrous is jusr more user friendly.

Hope that helps.
 
I use 20 Mule Team.... And I"m getting the idea not to try and weld a 4 inch billet all in one heat yes??

regards, mitch
 
Sean I would say you qualify! Ive seen your damascus. :cool:

There are many ways to do the same thing but my method works for me and Ive screwed up a ton of steel. Just dont give up.
 
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