For curly maple dye, stain, chemical

Heres what I often do with maple: Finish the handle down to 600+ grit, leaving is just slightly over sized. Put on some rubber or latex gloves, wet a rag with Muratic acid and wipe it on the handle. Let the Muratic soak in for a minute or two, then wipe it off.

Next, get out your paint stripper (heat) gun, and start heating the maple. The combination of heat and acid will caramelize the sugars in the wood and with practice you can achieve many different hues of color. Often times the surface with lightly char. Let the wood cool naturally, then start lightly hand sanding the handle down until you achieve a look you desire. Once I finish hand sanding, I use multiple coats of Tru-Oil for the finish.
 
chromic trioxide, get it at Dixie Gun Works, follow the instructions that it comes with.
 
That stuff can turn your maple black real fast. Keep an eye on it. If I ever use it again I will dilute it at least in half if not more.
 
I use Fieblings oil leather dye. The dark brown has some reddish tones in it. Simple and doesnt require heat and acid.
 
I've been hesitant to say this for some time, but a word of warning re: Any stain based on chromic trioxide (which includes Majestic) - over time chromic almost always turns green - BRIGHT green. Many muzzleloading builders of the 1970's used it and by the early 1980's, 95% plus of all rifles stained with it turned green....
If you question my statement go to the American Longrifles forum and ask what they think of using it on maple - FWIW it's the Internet home of some of the finest builders bar none - most of whom's guns start at the mid 4 figures and go to the high 5 figures.........

Aqua Fortis aka ferric nitrate (AF was/is also used to denote straight nitric acid, but in the case of the wood stain it denotes ferric nitrate or a mix of ferric nitrate and ferric chloride).


IMO once you use it and learn it's few quirks you'll prefer it over anything else....I've been suing it on maple for over 40 years and although I've tried other stains at times this is IMO the BEST bar none and is the only thing I now use - photos just do not do it justice - it brings out the chatoyance in good maple like nothing else - looks like a fine opal, especially when finished with a good oil based finish........
Being a chemical reagent it will though act differently on each piece, but the color can be tweaked if need be by using stains specifically formulated for quality maple such as those offered by LMF or Jim Chambers.....
WAHKON BAY AQUAFORTIS—2 oz. $8.95. Continental U.S. ground shipping only. Gunbuilder and dealer quantities available.
MICHAEL LEA AND DAUGHTER
2109 Summit Street, Columbus OH 43201.
Telephone 614-291-4757, email oldguns2109@sbcglobal.net

Leather dye has it's problems too - unfortunately it tends to fade over time if/when exposed to sunlight/UV.........
 
.Looks like I am going to have a busy day. The steel wool and vinegar is a product I have used for years in my Cottonwood bark carvings to gray the ends. Never thought to use on the maple. So have a new batch cooking today. I tried a couple of fieblings oil leather dye but not the dark brown which I have plenty of. I going down to Burkes this morning and try the majestic maple stain from RW Wilson. Yes Bill I will bring you a nice piece but if you remember right you all ready stole one piece.

Thanks to all for your contributions
 
I use a pint jar of white vinegar and a bat of 0000 steel wool. Soak the bat in the jar for about a week and filter the liquid into another jar. Wipe the solution onto the wood and let dry. repeat for deeper tones. Steel wool the wood lightly then apply 50:50 turpentine/double boiled liseed oil rubbing it into the wood. reapply 10-15 coats.
 
I had 0000 steel wool sittin in a jar of white vinegar over a week and it did nothing to the color of the vinegar
 
Redbusa06 said:
I had 0000 steel wool sittin in a jar of white vinegar over a week and it did nothing to the color of the vinegar
Click to expand...

Degrease the steel wool with soap and water, then let it set for a bit to start rusting before putting it into the vinegar. It'll start to work fairly quick, but still takes some time.
 
I totally agree with Chuck on the use of Aquafortis over other products. The 2oz. bottle will be enough to do many knife handles, both large and small. I sand to 400g, lightly dampen with water to bring the grain up and rub out with 0000 steel wool. The Aquafortis is then applied being sure to get all the wood covered. Using a heat gun, slowly bring the temp up and watch the wood darken being careful not to scorch. Got to be sure and get it all hot enough to brown all out. If I want a reddish look, Fiebings British Tan dye can be applied lightly. After the dye has soaked in, I rub out again with the steel wool. Last step is using a sealer like Danish oil. Other products work very well,too. After 24hrs. I buff out and coat with several applications of wax.
 
How is the effect/result different if I use the Muriatic acid such as Ed described versus the Aqua Fortis? I have some Muriatic so I will give it a try first at any rate, but just curious if there is a major difference.
 
I've never used muratic acid, so I can't comment on the difference. With the Aquafortis you never get it hot enough to char before it turns.
 
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