? for Grizzly owners

Burchtree

Burchtree

KnifeMaker & Moderator
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I've got a 2x72 and it runs smooth on the lower grit belts, but when I move to 100 and up, it doesn't run as well. It seems to "bump" more, and it makes the blade skip and bounce when I put it on the wheel. Any one else have this problem? Is it just crappy belts?
 
I dont own a Grizzly, but it may be the belts you're using. The finer grit belts typically have a thinner backing and are also thinner overall due to smaller grit. Consequently, the splice area is thicker than the rest of the belt resulting in a 'bump' area. You may try buying some higher quality belts ( dont know what you're using now ). The Norax belts from Norton are wonderful for polishing. Good luck, hope that helps -- Charles
 
I agree with Charles. Economy belts are notorious for that problem.
Often, even getting good belts from suppliers who are not into knifemaking can garner the same results.
The best bet is to buy from places like Tru Grit, Pops, or the other knifemakers supply houses.:eek:
 
Yes, they're really cheap -- been buying them from Grizzly. Are the Norton Norzon Blue belts any good? I'm making an order from TKS and thought I'd buy some o' them belts.
 
I use the Norton Ceramic ( Red ) for 50 and 120 grit. I use the Norax in 320 and 400 . Thats all I use for grinding. For finishing I use a Blue scotchbrite and 400 grit cork belt.
 
the blue nortions are fine. i also use the norton hogger ceramic (red) and the norzac. 3m cubitron are also a favoite.
 
It's the belts. I flat grind on a Grizzly all the time but, had that same problem when I started. Now I use good belts and don't have a problem. I'm using Klingspors from Pop's and their fairly inexpensive. I have some folks trying to get me to move up to some better stuff but, I refuse to let go of the klingspors yet.
 
Thanks I spent some more money ($81) at TKS. This hobby gets expensive! :eek:

I had a feeling it was the belts -- I was buying them from Grizzly and some of the sizes even seemed inconsistent.
 
Mike, you might want to think about adding a piece of pyraceram glass, to your platen. I have gotten into the habit of glueing a piece of 8-10 oz leather over the platen, when I go above 220 grit belts. Really makes a difference on the final finish of the blade.

Ken Beatty
 
I've looked into those, (another $35 :D)because I've already dug ruts into the metallic coating on the Grizzly's platen. I still got a 12-inch disk sander, so I'll probably use that until I get one.

Thanks everyone for the help.
 
Your best bet is to make a new platen for the machine. The one that comes with the grizzly sucks. I had one made out of A2 (2"x 13") and spent too much. I'm planning on making another out of 5160, just for the hell of it. With my new forge room I can use a piece of heavy truck leaf spring and make a new platen pretty cheap & quick. You might want to think about going this route if you can.
 
You get a little "shock" from using a metal platen? My old Belsaw 1x48 has a good metal platen (ancient) and I'd have to "tap" the tip of the blade on the metal shelf every once in a while to discharge the static electricity that would build up.
 
I've never had that from a platen. I do have one buffer that I get a tiny little shock from when I touch the casing but, I've gotten over it. I figure that's just the price I pay for getting a good buffer for $20.00. The platen I've never had any trouble with.
 
A quick fix for the flat platten is to have a piece of tempered glass cut to size (2"x 10" or 12"?) and epoxy to the platten face. The glass will eventually wear or can break from the heat or pressure, but is a real cheap fix. The glass can be cut for $2 at any car and home window glass supplier. Those graphite clothes just add to the frustrations by creating hill and valleys to grind on. I used the graphite cloth on the Grizzly, but moved to the glass with the upgrade to the Bader.

I've also had the static ZAP in the dry winters using the glass on the platen. Kinda distracting. I've learned to lay one finger on the metal backing of the platen.

That leather idea sounds great! I'll have to try that for pollishing.

Dan
Bearpaw Knives
www.bearpawknives.com
 
You can get a piece of the pyroceram glass from Steve Pryor. $20.00 including shipping.

Ken Beatty
 
Originally posted by ragnoor
You can get a piece of the pyroceram glass from Steve Pryor. $20.00 including shipping.

Ken Beatty
Click to expand...

IMO, this is the best way to go. It stays flat for a looooooong time, and it doesn't heat up, or cause drag like most platen material.

That makes things easier on your belts, and grinder.:eek:
 
Definitely worth the money. saves you money in longer belt life, and longer bearing life on grinder.
 
just use zap gap glue to glue it to the griz palten.i have used grafite cloth or pyro over the past few years. pyro wins the contest. with a little solid grafite rubbed on the back of the belt to help keep the belt cool.
 
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