For Hollow Grinders - 8 or 10 inch wheel for me?

R

rlinger

Joined
Mar 29, 2002
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I guess I'm really leaning heavy toward getting the Coote grinder. According to their web site I can get a 10 inch wheel model for 14 bucks more than the 8 inch. When ever I decide to learn hollow grinding, I want to have the right size wheel for the type knives I want to make. I will mostly be making hunter size knives, total blade lengths of say 3 1/4 to 4 inch max. - including ricasso. Would you advise me to go with the 10 wheel??

Thanks;

Roger
 
For my money, go for the 10" - at least. That's what I use, and I'm seriously thinking I need at least a 14"...

Also, I have a serrated wheel and am not entirely sold; I think the downside for finishing really is greater than the additional hogging power. But I've only had it one way, I'd like to hear what others say about that - if you had to choose smooth or serrated wheel, which would it be?

Thanks,
Dave
 
Dave,

I'm getting ready to call Coote but the way I read his site, they only offer the smooth wheel. If it doesn't chatter and it tracks I guess I'll be happy. I've never used either yet. What da I know?

Roger
 
Get Norm to set you up a grinder that will run both sizes.
I have ground on an 8 and a 10 I think the 8 inch wheel
was eaiser to learn to hollow grind on.That is just my 2 cents worth
Heck I am still learning to grind.Also the wideth of the hollow
will very with the size wheel you use.If you get Norm to set your grinder up to take both sizes,if you want to up grade you can always
move up to the next size wheel.;)
 
Well stated Nathan. I think I'll wait a bit for more posts to this thread before I call him. I want to get into liner locks some day and maybe I'd like having that 8 inch capability also if needed.

Roger
 
I've used an 8 and a 10, serrated and smooth and I'd suggest a smooth face 10" wheel Roger. It's not any harder to grind on a 10" than an 8" wheel and I like the smooth face ten times better than the serrated.
 
Thanks L6. That makes me feel better since it looks as though the smooth is all I can get from Coote (according to how I read his web site).

I'm really getting some good answers now.

Roger
 
The 8" wheel only has a usable grind width of about 3/4" and the grind width goes up as you go up in diameter. For instance, you wouldn't want to grind a small 3" folder blad with a 14" wheel. The "hollowness" of the grind would be very shallow. You may as well have flat ground it. Conversely, you wouldn't use the 8" wheel on a big thick bowie blade. You'd wind up with a narrow little hollow grind near the edge of the blade, and a huge expanse of steel all the way to the back.

Different wheel diameters all have their different applications. Koval Knives has a good chart depicting what whell should be used for what width of blade. In my opinion, an 8" wheel is a great start for anyone beginning to hollow-grind. Good luck!
 
I bought Coote grinder 6 months ago with 10"and 8" contact wheel
(Mr Coote adjusted the grinder to accept the two sizes of wheel)

If you have the money, buy the 9" sanding disc (very practical for the flats
parts) and the small roller attachement (useful to make fingers grooves)
And if you have enough money, tries to find you an variable speed motor...
I would not do without there

I use my 8" and 10" contact wheel, but I prefer my 10" wheel,
I find that more easy and I prefer a large hollow grind...
(even on smaller knives)

Alain M-D
 
If I had only one to pick, it would be the serrated 10" wheel.
I grind most steels in the hardened state and slow so I prefer the serrated wheel since it stays a little cooler.
I just received one of the yellow urethane serrated 10" wheels from Bertie Reitveld and so far it is a winner. Totally different feel than the rubber ones.
I have the 14" serrated on the KMG and for big knives it's great.
FWIW, I can't remember the last time I had an 8" wheel on any of the grinders.
 
What Nathan, Michael, and Alain said. Get the smooth wheel, they are much better in the finishing operations than serrated, and you don't give up much when hogging. For a start out grinder, I don't think you will ever regret the Coote. I shudder to think of the modifications new makers have to do to grizzlys just to get to where the Coote is, right out of the box. Good luck. :D :eek:
 
Great stuff guys.

Allen, I have sanding disks here. I do like your suggestion about the optional drive wheel for small contouring. Think I'll go with that if the bucks hold out. I'll have variable speed. I'll have to put the drive train together myself.

Roger
 
Since Kit has decided to make things oh so hard, I gotta say, I don't use an 8" much either. But I do use it on smaller knives, and occasionally to do handle work.
I just got a 14" wheel that I am dying to try out. Wonder what a 22", or 30" would.........never mind.;) :D
 
Roger,

I bought a Coote about 6 months ago. I was doing the Grizzly vs Coote thing at the time. It was Alain's pictures of his that made the decision for me. I bought the 10" contact wheel...though I am caught up having fun Flat grinding at the moment and have not really used it. The machine works very well and is very well built.

The only negative I have is the fact that the belts have ground into the machines base (and tops of the bolts on the right hand side of the machine :rolleyes: ) because the 10" wheel is quite close. this happens when I run the belts off the platen a bit for cleaning up the plunge area. I think it has pretty much made the clearance it needed and has stopped though.

Mr Coote was excellent to deal with and I had the machine within a week of ordering (phenomenal..considering I am on the east coast of Canada and he is in Washington state IIRC).

I think you will be pleased with your Coote.

Take Care
Dean
 
Thanks Mike and DCT. Kit got me thinking - forget about the 8 inch wheel. If it doesn't cost too much extra for me to have the machine made for either wheel I guess I'll go that way but I won't let it be a deal breaker. If its out of my cost allowance I'll go with the 10 inch only model.

I'm not excited about hollow grinding. I like full V grinds just fine. I just want the right tool for hollow grinds when it comes time for me to learn it. I got to buy a grinder any how. Better to have the wheel size you want when you need it. That's just the way I'm trying to plan this thing out.

Roger
 
Originally posted by L6steel
I've used an 8 and a 10, serrated and smooth and I'd suggest a smooth face 10" wheel Roger. It's not any harder to grind on a 10" than an 8" wheel and I like the smooth face ten times better than the serrated.
Click to expand...

My sentiments...EXACTLY
 
Roger,
I grind everything, even the little F4 neckers on a 10" wheel. I'm starting to grind more on the 14" but it will be mostly for larger knives or when I want a near flat grind on the smaller ones.
IMHO, the larger the wheel, the harder it is to get "into the groove" and I admit I started years ago on an 8", so maybe that helped when I transitioned to the 10".
BTW, I also had Bertie make me a 1" wide 10" smooth wheel for recurves and hawkbill types. Lots of guys grind on the 1" wide ones.
 
Ten inch it is. Now it is time to make a phone call.

Thanks a bunch to all. Every single post to my question was helpful to me and I am happy I asked.

Roger
 
Kit
I also have a 1 inch wide wheel,I got from Rob.
you can really get up in the plung cuts with them
..I have a question for people who only use 10 inch wheels
and up.Does't a smaller wheel like a 8 inch and a 6 inch contact wheel
make a more contracting hollow grind,where a 10 and up make a flater hollow,I know Neil blackwood only uses 8 and 6 inch contact wheels on
his knives and he gets such crisp grind lines with them?
:confused:confused:
 
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