For the field maintenance of Mora (or scandi ground blades)?

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pinnah

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Jul 28, 2011
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How do people FIELD SHARPEN scandi ground blades like the Mora?


I carry a small DMT credit card stone with me both EDC and when traveling in the backcountry. It's marvelous at putting a quick micro bevel on a blade. Just a few strokes to get to shaving or paper slicing sharp.

Small pocket stones are horrible for reprofiling a blade. But then, proper scandi sharpening is, essentially, reprofiling. Easy enough on a bench stone. Rather a pain on a pocket stone.

I've simply given up on proper "pure" scandi sharpening. I reprofile every once in a while at home but maintain the edges with a micro bevel touch up. One knife (a Companion Heavy Duty) has been reprofiled to full convex at this point and a newer knife (a thinner, plain Companion) is still scandi with a growing micro-bevel.


I am *NOT* in anyway interested in solutions that require a bigger, heavier stone into the field. It's just not going to happen.

Looking for suggestions, tips or possibly solidarity (Thomas Linton?) on approaches. Is there some trick to doing full, proper scandi edge sharpening in the field with a small stone or are other people just tossing on micro-bevels like I'm currently doing?
 
In my opinion, you already got your answer. My initial reaction to just your title was "microbevel." That is of course, IF you really need to resharpen in the field. Hair popping sharp is really a little overkill if you're cutting on sticks and things, in my opinion.
 
few years ago when i was deployed they mixed up our regiment with different nationalities.
i usually carried a small wetstone in a modified sheath to sharpen my ka-bar but it got lost.
so a british soldier showed me that even roughed up porcelain could be used to sharpen your knife.
wouldn't recommend it if you have a wetstone to sharpen your knife but for last resort it works like a charm.

for field use in my own country i carry a spyderco wetstone
 
Wolfie and SAK Guy, can you describe how you
A) stabilize those small stones and
B) hold the knife when working against them?

I can full scandi sharpen these on stable bench stones but can't crack the code on an unstable small stone. Even that Falkinkniven stone looks too small. Although I assume the double sided nature helps it stick to log or other surfaces better
 
I don't know if this will help but I saw a video where Ray Mears (spelling?) kept 3 small finishing nails with him in the sleeve of the stone, he used them to pin the stone in place on a log or stump.
You might be able to find it on YouTube.
 
i usually hold the knife half on the hilt and half on the blade itself so it is in balance.
and i hold the stone in my left hand between hand palm and middle finger (or flat on hand when it is to big)
then look for the right angle and sharpen it up.

if my hands are to wet because of the sweat i put a part of it in the sheat and lay it on whatever object i can find.
 
AntCaps said:
I don't know if this will help but I saw a video where Ray Mears (spelling?) kept 3 small finishing nails with him in the sleeve of the stone, he used them to pin the stone in place on a log or stump.
You might be able to find it on YouTube.
Click to expand...

that is really smart i'll keep that in mind lol
 
Another option you might try is to use the stone like a file. Hold the knife still, I like to place it flat then stroke the stone across the blade instead of the other way around. If I don't have a flat surface I will hold the knife handle in my left hand and place the tip into a tree or log whatever is handy. I use this method with my larger field blades and it works well for me.
Good Luck.
Allan
 
I have a DMT Aligner set. I don't really like it as a guided sharpener so I use the small (~1"× 3") diamond stones for hand sharpening. What I really like about the set is that the plastic stone holder that is meant for use with the angle guide is a great little handle. It gives me something to grip under the stone so I can use the whole stone in sharpening while maintaining a firm grip. I brace the attached rod against my chest to minimise movement. I have been able to sharpen scandis that way.
 
pinnah said:
Wolfie and SAK Guy, can you describe how you
A) stabilize those small stones and
B) hold the knife when working against them?

I can full scandi sharpen these on stable bench stones but can't crack the code on an unstable small stone. Even that Falkinkniven stone looks too small. Although I assume the double sided nature helps it stick to log or other surfaces better
Click to expand...

For 4-5 inch blades and under, I usually hold the stone in my hand (by my fingertips) and it works in concert with the blade stroke....been doing it this way for a very long time. For really big blades and bench stones, I do it the normal way but have used my DC-3's (3 inch) to sharpen 9" blades...you just have to do it in sections.

Btw, my scandi's are all microbeveled.

ETA, I also have DMT Diafold's as well and with those, you brace the tip of the stone on a rock or edge or the table to steady it.
 
The simple answer to a dull scandi knife in the field, is a second knife. I don't think I have ever had to sharpen one when afield though. A decent knife, with good steel, can handle a couple of hard weekends on the trail, or in camp.
 
AntCaps said:
I don't know if this will help but I saw a video where Ray Mears (spelling?) kept 3 small finishing nails with him in the sleeve of the stone, he used them to pin the stone in place on a log or stump.
You might be able to find it on YouTube.
Click to expand...

No need:

[youtube]D4y8u_iJf1M[/youtube]
 
Double sided carpet tape works great for making sticky backed wet-n-dry paper. Mate it to whatever flat thing you've got. I've used tins, cases, the bottom of pots etc. Go all third world on it and sit with it held between your feet. Works great if you stick to pushing off the knife. Ideal for this 'cos big and flat trumps all. Not much of a weight penalty either. I keep a couple of bits ready to have the backing removed slipped down the back of my map case. I can do goloks and hatchets like this so you should find laying the flat of a Mora down easy.
 
SAK Guy said:
For 4-5 inch blades and under, I usually hold the stone in my hand (by my fingertips) and it works in concert with the blade stroke....been doing it this way for a very long time. For really big blades and bench stones, I do it the normal way but have used my DC-3's (3 inch) to sharpen 9" blades...you just have to do it in sections.
Click to expand...

SAK Guy, you do this to work down the flat scandi bevel? How do you create pressure on the flat?

I can control edge angle fine (enough) when just working a micro bevel. I use exactly the hold you describe. But I find when working the flat scandi bevel, I need to apply some down force to work the bevel full flat and I just can't seem to do that well when holding the knife against the stone held in my hand.

That's the thing... for getting that bevel flat, I generally need to hold the knife with 2 hands, one on the handle and one on the blade, usually near where I'm working.
 
baldtaco-II said:
Double sided carpet tape works great for making sticky backed wet-n-dry paper. Mate it to whatever flat thing you've got. I've used tins, cases, the bottom of pots etc. Go all third world on it and sit with it held between your feet. Works great if you stick to pushing off the knife. Ideal for this 'cos big and flat trumps all. Not much of a weight penalty either. I keep a couple of bits ready to have the backing removed slipped down the back of my map case. I can do goloks and hatchets like this so you should find laying the flat of a Mora down easy.
Click to expand...

Hmmm....

Need to look over my kit and think about the possibilities. Nice idea.
 
I have a small strop I got from knives ship free. Loaded with bark river green and black. Works well but I'm thinking of going with ceramic or diamond as they're essentially waterproof. The leather I hav have to keep in a ziplock.
 
Shotgun, I've carried a painterstick and leather strop before but that's not going to help this situation. When I'm working wood and wear down the edge, I want to do more than strop.
 
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