For those that want to get started in leather sheath making...

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Mar 19, 2007
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I have only been bending leather a year or so, but in that year I have learned a lot. I put this post up in another forum for those wanting to get into leather sheath making and thought I would post it here.

Please feel free to add to it:



Here is what I would recommend in terms of research:


1) Buy two Al Stohlman books "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather." and "The Art of Making Leather Cases Vol 1"

These are about 10 bucks each and are worth their weight in gold. You can find them at Tandy leather or Amazon (check your library - you never know).

2) Buy Chuck Burrows Video "Custom Knife Sheaths" - this can be rented on line as well. Chuck posts on BF, is a member, and have been bending leather longer than I have been alive.

I learned a TON about making my work better from his video - I would recommend it to just about anyone.

Those are the three things I would read and watch to get you started.

With that said - here are the tools I would buy (I will post 'Craft Tool' brand because they are easy to find - but they are the lower end. These are GREAT however for getting started - and they are what I still use. Also, I post links to Tandy leather. You certainly don't have to use them - but they are where many people start.)

Tools:


1) A Stitch Groover. This guy makes grooves in the leather that allow your stitching to sit at surface level, and not above.

2) A Stitch Wheel.

3) Needles and Thread

Needles come in many different sizes and thread in even more. I linked you to the ones I use the most. Check out different colors and size needles too.

4) An Awl. I don't use just an awl for my stitching - but this is a great thing to have no matter what.

5) A bone folder and a piece of bone or antler. You can just use the bone folder - but if you have a bit of deer antler - sand it down - it is GREAT for doing your edging. Also - get a scrap of canvas. It helps with burnishing your edges.

6) A small hammer - for tapping your stitches and other things. I would advise something like a jewlers hammer - but you will know what you need when you need it. (Be careful with anything steel on wet leather - it makes a black mark).

7) Needle Nose Pliers - indispensable for hand stitching and possible a stitching pony. The stitching pony holds you work as you work. I don't use one however - I just let my stuff fall all over the place. ;)

8) Edge Beveler - You will want at least a #1 edger - although I use a #2 almost exclusively.

9) A SHARP knife. I use a Bark River Mikro Tusk for almost all of my leather work. Have a small nimble sharp knife on hand.

10) A skiver and extra blades. Buy the cheapie - it is great. You will use this to make leather thinner. You NEED it to make welts and the like.


In terms of liquids and chemicals. You should start with:


1) Dyes and daubers. Whatever color you like (I use Fiebrings) and wool daubers.
2) Rubber gloves - your hands will get STAINED.
3) Gum Tragacanth. You use this to slick your edges and flatten the under side of leather.
4) Some form of leather protectant. I love Montana Pitch Blend but have seen awesome results with Leather Balm (with Atom Wax) and Tan Kote (by Fiebrings).
5) Contact Cement. Barge is the name to trust here - but I have seen DAP Contact cement work very well. This is what I use currently - but the big kids use Barge.
6) Rubbing alcohol - you will use this to deglaze your leather.
7) Spray bottles - good for water (wet forming)and other chemicals.
8) Yellow sponges. You will see the masters use sponges a LOT. They can 'case leather' with them - you will read more about this.


Other considerations:


1) One thing that I use and would probably not do leather without is a Drill Press. I chuck up a thicker needle and punch/drill my holes for stitching. Life is just a lot easier with it. If you have one - use it. If not - I have seen people use their dremel and do a VERY clean job.

2) KEEP A CLEAN WORK SURFACE. The messier it gets - the uglier your leather.

3) GO SLOWLY. Never rush leather - you will pay. When someone says 'let it dry' - they mean it. ;)

4) Don't buy a bunch of tools. Other than what I listed above - you just don't need it until you can do a good stitch, a good edge, and good glue work. This will take some time. Be patient. When you get better - but a few tools - but the masters all tell me that they USED to have a shit load of tools - now they use about 15. Pay attention to them - they know their stuff.

5) Buy GOOD LEATHER. American tanners are still the best - and make sure you get good leather. There are many places - but many many people that I trust use Wickett and Craig.. Buy a good 8-10 ounce double shoulder - and you can get a PILE of sheaths out of that.



I don't know a lot - but I can at LEAST get you started. Mentioned above is about 300 dollars in sheath making equipment. You don't need all of this, and can get started with much less, but I wanted to mention what I think you will need to make sheaths if you want to make a few, especially if you plan on selling them.

TF
 
Good stuff Tal...:thumbup:

Just want to mention another good source of info and inspiration: leatherworker.net
 
I've been thinking about making a sheath for one of my knives. I've been poking around the inter-net, watching different videos and such. This is a great help, thanks Talfuchre. I am having trouble finding where to buy some leather and thread. I probably only need a 12in x 12in piece. What type should I get, and what weight (oz)? Thanks!
 
If your just starting, and looking for basic materials. Yea, I still shop there.

Tandy/The Leather Factory. They've never failed me yet. I get to dig thorough the stacks and pick what I like and they have been known to cut small pieces for customers that ask. Dont demand, ask for a favor and most will try their best to accommodate you.

For thread I have had nothing but good results from the stuff that Tandy sells. Wax covered nylon is a good thing. Take two strands and I can hang off it. :)

A good starter is 7/8 or 8/9 oz leather. You can get both in a single shoulder which is about 5 square feet. Get the #2 leather as its the same as #1 but with some extra that you can use as welting.

Tandy is good as long as you have a good selection to dig through, you'll need more than one piece to dig through. Most locations will have a scrap bin to scour through, that will give you enough to work with in enough small pieces.
 
If your just starting, and looking for basic materials. Yea, I still shop there.

Tandy/The Leather Factory. They've never failed me yet. I get to dig thorough the stacks and pick what I like and they have been known to cut small pieces for customers that ask. Dont demand, ask for a favor and most will try their best to accommodate you.

For thread I have had nothing but good results from the stuff that Tandy sells. Wax covered nylon is a good thing. Take two strands and I can hang off it. :)

A good starter is 7/8 or 8/9 oz leather. You can get both in a single shoulder which is about 5 square feet. Get the #2 leather as its the same as #1 but with some extra that you can use as welting.

Tandy is good as long as you have a good selection to dig through, you'll need more than one piece to dig through. Most locations will have a scrap bin to scour through, that will give you enough to work with in enough small pieces.

Dwayne, which thread do you buy from Tandy? I've been using Nyltex 40oz white #56450-103. Is that the same stuff or different then what you use?

Love Tandy's Oak Leaf IE #2 leather. Has good Charactor which I like in my sheaths and Tandy has sales on it almost every month so the price is really good if you know when to look. Don't like the #3 because the backs are way to rough. I've worked with plenty of people on sheaths that want leather with charactor.

Going to try out Wickett and Craigs #1 and see how I like it. But I'm betting that their #2 and Tandys #2 are what I'll stick with for Machete sheaths.

Heber
 
I agree totally with Tandy with a GOOD selection. I have to HUNT AND HUNT some times - but bargains can be had - as opposed to what I hear about Wickett and Craig - just great every time.

TF
 
Tal, reference the above post, I'm not sure I understand correctly what you re saying with regard to Wickett and Craig. They have been having "flyer sales" for nearly a year. That is they send a flyer out to their customers with some very special prices. As you know I buy the utility skirting sides split free to 7/8 and 2/3 and I have been paying $100 per side for about a year. It has been a very long time since I have purchased any leather from Tandy/LF, but as I recall they would have a very hard time beating those prices and can't come close to the quality (at those prices). You may have to get on the W/C mailing list, or you might even have to meet minimum purchase requirements. I'm not sure because my relationship with them is about 4 years old and counting and I buy about 30 to 40 sides a year so I'm solidly entrenched in their mailing scheme. They do represent the best value and QUALITY dollar for dollar.....at least for me.

Paul
 
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No minimum requirement at W&C, I buy one side at a time about every 2 or 3 months and I get their sale flyer in the mail about every month.
 
Paul,

You misunderstood and I can see why - I wasn't very clear.

I think you can find great deals at Tandy - if you are a little lucky and willing to hunt.

W&C is great every time but you have to wait and buy something not in your hand. I just saw a $100 side of leather from W&C that is their Grade 3 that beats the pants off most Tandy leather.

However, I bought a 25 dollar double shoulder of leather from Tandy that I have been working off for 3 months.

Personally, I will be buying my leather from W&C from now on. I simply wanted to say that Tandy CAN be an option. At the end of the day - I am absolutely agreeing with you! ;)

When I finish up this double shoulder - I will order a side from W&C and have leather for about a year!


TF
 
Tandy is primarily a craft store catering to the hobbyist and the casual crafts person. It is a fine store for accessories such as dyes, finishes, tools, books and helpful instructions. Wickett and Craig is not a craft store, they are a tannery and leather is their business---and they do that very well. If you desire the best currently available in leather, Wickett & Craig is the answer. Their pricing is reflected in the quality of their product and makes it one of the best deals around. ---Sandy---
 
I had never thought about Tandy that way. It explains a lot to me. Sometimes I just need it said differently for me to get it.

TF
 
Same here, our local, well across town, Leather Factory keeps a good supply of nice leather. The new tannage has been fantastic, the double bends I have been getting dont even fuzz when sanded. Makes for a lot less work. Almost seven bucks a square foot, but well worth fewer headaches.

The Leather Factory isnt really all that craft centered, and if you look past all those cheesy kits at the front, the Tandy is pretty good, just under stocked.
 
I have learned to HATE the fuzz when sanded!

TF

When you call W&C, ask them to put your leather through the "no more fuzz" machine before they ship to you. They provide this service at no extra charge....they do it for me anyway.:D

I have started wetting the edges a little before sanding them and I really like the results I'm getting.
 
Just finished watching the Chuck Burrows DVD, great info .Glad I bought it so I can watch it over again as needed.
 
Just finished watching the Chuck Burrows DVD, great info .Glad I bought it so I can watch it over again as needed.

He took my leather making to a level I am VERY pleased with. I am no artisan - but I can make a great sheath in less time that I am proud of.

Best 50 bucks ever spent on sheath making.

TF
 
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