force a patina on my LH CPMS30V Millie?

S

solocanoe

Joined
Jan 25, 2010
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I'm coming humbly before the throne of your awesome knowledge, Spydie fans. :)

I just returned from another wonderful week out and about in the wilds. I actually didn't take my Millie, it was a fixed blade type of trip. For FB's I like the RC/ESEE line and have lots. I actually REALLY like them the more marked up the coatings get, the more "love marks" that show - sorta like the way I like my Glock better when it's got wear marks from the leather, etc...

SO...I got to thinking (week long solo canoe trip - lots of wonderful time to think!) about trying to get a black blade on my LH Mili. An email to CS at Spyderco shot me down...they don't offer a coating service even if I wanted to pay and I can't find the LH version of the Mili anywhere with a black blade.

DO YOU ALL think a forced patina in vineger or mustard or whatever would take some of the shiny-ness off? I have a survival mirror, I really don't need my knife to signal airplanes! :D BTW, this is my only non-black blade, so this really is something I've got to figure out or trade it away.

any suggestions on what to use? again, I have CPM S30V (details please)
would a blade swap be recommended? if I could find someone to do it.

Anyway - I really DO appreciate the LH version - it's great to have a knife made for my "wrong handed-ness" :cool:
 
thank you, Somber - this proves I know SO very little about steels! :) oh well, I know how to use 'em! lol!

so...anybody got any other ideas? I was thinking that trying to swap someone for a coated black blade may work...but I know nothing of how these things work - if blade swaps are even possible? or a PITA? etc...

It's a shame (Discrimination, I tell ya! :) ) that RH'ers get a black millie blade, but LH'ers don't....
 
Blade swap won't work because the lockface will be cut the wrong way. S30V is very corrosion resistent. I can tell you from experience that battery acid won't put a patina on it, much less anyting edible. Your best bet would be finding someone who does Guncoate or other aftermarket coatings. Good luck.
 
It might cost a bit, but I think it would be wicked cool if you DLC/PVD coated it:

DLC - Diamond Like Carbon
PVD - Particle Vapor Deposition

DLC is better, but they each physically bind a protective layer into the metal.

Richter Precision

Contact info is on the site, can't hurt to give them a call, maybe they could do it for cheap (honestly, probably like $60USD for a custom service like that). You'll probably have to blunt the blade and then resharpen (obviously) when you get it back.
 
The only swap that'll get you into patina-land would be for one of the not-yet-arrived, waaaaay-over-subscribed, limited edition CPM-M4 Military knives. :D Bon chance on that one, though, or at least bring a lot of cash... ;)
 
yablanowitz, thanks for the knowledge! I had no idea the blade heel would be cut differently, but it makes sense now that you say it. I really AM a novice at folders as you all can tell.

somber - thanks for the link - I'll send them an email see what happens.

jnewell - I'm already (luckily!) in on both the sold out LE HEST/f version that's serial #'d and the production run folders that aren't...but are JUST ABOUT sold out everywhere already...so I know what you mean about scrambling for a chair when the music stops in knife world.

I suppose I'll stick with plan "A" and sell my nearly new millie LH when the HEST/f comes into my hands. Shame, this was my only spydie and I like it, but just can't get past the fact I could use the thing as a mirror to put in my contacts!
 
This is another prime example of why I personally like carbon steel. It gets a beautiful patina by using it on sticking it in an apple and going to bed for the night. :D
 
My Millie blades aren't all that shiney, and I do hate a dark coating. Dark makes it harder to see your knife edge/tip in low light, and I like to see my blade while working, esp on Deer cleaning in low light.

If the slight shine is the only thing that bothers you, and you don't HAVE to have a black blade.....Bead Blast it, or get it Tumbled like the sebenza blades.
No shine at all with those two methods.
 
thanks, guys for the great replies. There's a guy on the ESEE forums that's been duracoating some Izula's - after folks strip the coating off. I didn't consider it as I wouldn't want to strip my coating off...but I may look into it.

I've sent off an email to the folks Somber mentioned, we'll see.

I'm not going to go too far down the road of "tweaking" this LH Millie because it's about perfect now. I've carried it in my pocket twice and in my EDC bag...that's it. It's an easy sell for $100, and move on.

THANK YOU wonderful Spydie folks! You guys are very helpful. I even got a PM about the Spyderco Native in black - and it being a lockback means it wouldn't bother me being a lefty. I may consider that in the future. Thanks for letting me wander thru the spydie forum.
 
I know that I would be really interested in hearing what Richter replies back to you with. I've been wanting to broach communication with them for a while now since I've been reading about the process and the technique, it really is amazing.

Two, I know that there is a gentleman on the forum here that offers to media-blast any items that other forumites send him FOR FREE (an amazing community we have here, seriously). It might be interesting to send it and get the blade stonewashed, then send it to get it DLC/PVD coated. You would literally have a one-of-a-kind, completely unique Spyderco, and I must say, it would probably be one of the most badass looking blades.

I hope it works out! Subscribed - I really want to see how this ends. I'm drooling over the thought of what this might mean for me, or even everyone here! DLC/PVD blades galore!
 
fishshooter said:
What about Brownell's Aluma-Hyde?
Click to expand...

Well...for one thing, it's basically spraypaint. For another, it's engineered for aluminum, not steel. Other than that, why not? ;)

From their website:

* Gunsmith's Spray Black For Aluminum And Alloys

Brownells Aluma-Hyde is a special nitrocellulose lacquer developed for covering metal, and designed to combine all recoats into one, tough, integrated finish. Many of the sprays we’ve found were thinned enamels, which do not build up on recoating, but add layer on separate layer. Best applied in 2 light coats over the primer listed below, it dries dust-free in 10 minutes, can be handled in 30, and dries completely overnight. It continues to cure for the next 3 to 4 days when it reaches maximum toughness. Makes a durable, scratch resistant, flat finish. Wears almost as well as the original anodizing used on today’s aluminum triggerguards and frames, and the color match is close. If the customer understands what you have done because the other alternative is replacing the part, you will usually meet minimal resistance. Can be re-coated anytime.
Click to expand...
 
Somber - I tried to keep your request in my pea brain all week! I even made a sticky to remind me! :)

As of now (thursday after 1pm CST) I have not heard back from Richter. I did send the detailed email last weekend and so far no response. For me, I'm out of this actually.

My post earlier about the Native in black and selling it for $100 resulted in me being able to choose from several ways I wanted to go - I ended up selling it for $100....and I put in an order for the Native with the all black blade/handle combo. It's not a true LH model, but being a lock back, it's easy to operate LH.

IF I happen to hear anything back from Richter, I'll come back and post it..but I'd say contact them yourself - maybe you'll have better luck and start a whole new thing!
I'm off to the lake for the Labor day weekend soon....leaving office in about an hour - wheeeee!!!!! and just wanted to get back to you - and throw away my stickie! lol!
 
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