Forced patina advice

Z

ZachP

Joined
Feb 2, 2018
Messages
3
My Ankerson bowie is growing on me. I used it very sparingly at first and it ended up with some rust spots here and there though I don't remember it ever being put back wet or dirty. Now that I'm not worried about it's looks I'm putting it though it's paces and boy it's one hell of a slicey Bowie, I'm really just starting to love it. My problem is cpm4v seems to rust noticeably quicker than other tool steels I own (A2 cruwear and 3v). I'd like to try a forced patina but I'm not even sure it would take a patina as it does have stainless qualities. Any advice is welcome.
 
It is, my question is can I put a forced patina on a tool steel. Cpm4v specifically
 
"It's a very nice looking blade. How stainless is 4V? I don't have many opportunities to carry a fixed blade where I live, but I may like one of those to keep around the house (and maybe even use it as an delightfully overkill kitchen knife if it's stainless enough)
It's not bad, it will take a patina very well, same care as any tool steel."
 
It's seems to rust a lot easier than cruwear 3v or A2. But the steel and thinness of the ankerson bring out all the best qualities of a Bowie. I haven't used it much for cooking yet but it's just a matter of time.
 
Use it to slice some onions, onions seem to be fairly good at forcing a patina might be the sulfur content.
 
You are experiencing the same problems I have when I try to just let a natural patina happen. Spots and blotches.

Degrease it with alcohol first, then whatever you slice be sure to rub the juices all over the blade. Let it rest for an hour or, Let it dry over night then rinse and repeat. When it is where you want it oil it. I consider this an assisted patina.

Or you can try to really force a patina by making a pattern with stripes of mustard or slices of onions to make bullseyes.


I always look for gaps at the tang/guard and fill them with JB weld first to keep anything from seeping into the tang area.
 
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My grandmother’s generation knew to rub a cut potato on a new blade. It was just common sense. They thought of it as seasoning not patina-ing. Same as seasoning a cast iron pot. Just part of using it.

potatoes contain Oxalic acid which will remove rust and leave a patina.
 
Having "stainless qualities" is not the same as stainless. Semi-stainless steels will patina. You proved it yourself - it rusts, meaning the steel reacts.
So the idea of forcing a patina is to stick it in something a bit acidic.
Popular choices are - vegetables, a fruit mash, condiments, meat, and I think some vinegar solution.
I've found cutting a bunch of onions and tomatoes to be useful and reliable. The finish is a bit more greyish.
Some people like banana or mango.
Others paint on mustard or ketchup and let it sit a little before washing off (same with fruit mash).
Or cook a roast (medium) rare and stick a blade in it. Some of the cuts of the round were like $4/lb before the pandemic.
After you let the blade be exposed for a while, clean and dry - you want a patina, not rust. Repeat a couple of times.
 
Been using white or red wine vinegar. Have been doing folders free standing them in a plastic coffee can, with folded paper towels in bottom soaked with vinegar. Overnight in the vapors (not sitting in vinegar) does a good job. Could use larger tupperware for large blades.
 
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