Forcing a patina...

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Jul 9, 2009
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Hi all. I just picked up a Spyderco Gayle Bradley, and I am very happy with it. However, it's started to get some corrosion (red rust) at the pivot. I've removed what I can see, but there's probably more underneath.

Would forcing a patina now, over the whole blade, be harmful? I'm afraid that the bad rust will be trapped under the patina, and continue to pit the blade.

If not, then any tips for removing loctite? Cause the blade is mounted on a pivot bushing, and it's impossible to remove without disassembling the knife, which is loctited pretty well.

Also, I'm going to force a patina on it anyway, at one time or another. What would be the best way to do this? I was thinking soak the whole blade, still on the knife, in vinegar, observing the blade to see when a nice even coat had formed. Is this what I should be doing?
 
Why not just take care of it and let it age naturaly. I like the look of a patina that developes over time. Wear patterns and scratches from honest use only add to the beauty. stephen
 
Hi all. I just picked up a Spyderco Gayle Bradley, and I am very happy with it. However, it's started to get some corrosion (red rust) at the pivot. I've removed what I can see, but there's probably more underneath.

Would forcing a patina now, over the whole blade, be harmful? I'm afraid that the bad rust will be trapped under the patina, and continue to pit the blade.

If not, then any tips for removing loctite? Cause the blade is mounted on a pivot bushing, and it's impossible to remove without disassembling the knife, which is loctited pretty well.

Also, I'm going to force a patina on it anyway, at one time or another. What would be the best way to do this? I was thinking soak the whole blade, still on the knife, in vinegar, observing the blade to see when a nice even coat had formed. Is this what I should be doing?

A soldering iron is best for loosening loctite(I HATE Loctite:grumpy:).
I found that soaking in lemon juice gives a great, uniform, dark patina.:thumbup:
Leave in for as many hours as desired, but change the juice every so often, as it loses it's potency as the (stinky) chemical reaction goes on.
Remove the blade for sure. Remove any rust first, and make sure to clean the blade with isopropyl alcohol before soaking.
 
Just touch the blade a lot (use the knife). I've had this Case Stockman for like 3 days and already a patina is developing where you grip the blade to pull it out. It may not be the fastest way but it sure is the simplest.
 
Actually, most of what I cut is pretty dry. M4 is more stainless than most other carbon steels (for example 1095) I've heard, so I'd rather force the process. Leaving it in my pocket and using it causes it to get rust spots as quickly as it does a patina.
 
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