Forge Build Tips Before I Build One

J

Jrmysell

Joined
May 18, 2014
Messages
546
I'm about ready to start building a forge. I want to do it right from the start so I don't have to redo anything in the future and I want it to last. I've been reading through all the stickys and think I have most of it figured out, but some of the pictures and diagrams are missing now. I have made a diagram on paint mostly to help me understand all the parts, but I'll post it here to make sure everything looks right to those who know more than I do.
I am wondering about where/how to install a light/fan dimmer or rheostat to control the blower? Do I wire it in line from the power source to the blower?
And what is a good PID controller to get? There are a bunch of options and I'm not sure which one I need?
I found this solenoid linked in a thread, but don't remember which one, but will it work?
https://www.zoro.com/asco-solenoid-...fuel-sv311a02n6cf5/i/G1811031/#specifications
What SSR do I need?
And how do I connect the PID, solenoid and SSR to each other?
I'm looking at these 2 blowers; one is 12VDC, one is 110VAC; is there a benefit to one or the other?
https://www.grainger.com/product/JABSCO-Round-DC-Plastic-Blower-4C814
https://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/products/forge-fan-fuel/blowers/gas-forge-blower-2-5.html

From what I read, I'm planning on having the blower angled forward slightly with it mounted near the back. I'm planning on using ridgidizer, then satanit, then ITC100 over 2 layers of 1" inswool HTZ.

Any thing else I am missing or doing obviously wrong?

And thanks for the help everybody.

KklZiFl.jpg
 
That is a well thought out forge.

I would recommend making the burner control two-stage ( in the stickies) instead od single stage. It works much smoother that way. There is only a by-pass line and a second needle valve involved to do that.

Use most any basic cheap PID. If you want a specific part #, my PID control sticky has a parts list with numbers. Auberins is a good supplier if you don't want to go with Ebay.
You want a 40 amp SSR. You also want a heat sink for it. This is all covered in the sticky.

The PID has a pair of output screws labeled SSR. It outputs a low DC voltage. This connects to the SSR +/- contacts. #3 is positive and #4 is negative.

The SSR has two load contacts for the AC power. The HOT AC line from the main power switch for your forge goes to #1 and the solenoid hot wire goes to #2.

The solenoid common wire goes to the neutral/common power wire.

You also have to provide AC power to the PID.

If using a speed controller on the blower, it is wired in the hot line to the fan.

It is good to have switches to turn on the main power and to turn on the PID. Lights for these are nice. A light hooked to SSR #2 will light when the burner is ON and go out when it is OFF (HI and LOW in the two-stage arrangement).

The solenoid is best placed at the burner end of the gas hose, near the gas inlet to the burner (reasonably close). It should not be at the tank end of the gas hose.

Many of us place a second "Shut Off" solenoid at the propane tank (attached to the input side of the regulator) as a safety feature in case of a power failure or the need to shut the gas flow down with the flip of a switch. In the case of a shop fire, broken/cut/burned propane hose, or regulator failure, this is a really nice extra. These are simple ON/OFF devices and low cost. The best place for the switch for this is located next to the exit door. When shut off upon leaving you know the gas is off, even if you forgot to shut off the tank valve ( which you should still do).Put a red switch plate on it.

I used to build forges with the burner in the back and angled forward. That works fine. Today, many folks build them with the burner in the front angled back. This cuts down on the Dragon's Breath out the front. Both ways work the same otherwise.

Build a nice control panel or box to mount the power stuff, PID, SSR/heat sink, blower speed control, and all switches and lights. This should mount below or besides the forge far enough away to keep any heat from causing problems.
 
Enjoy building your first forge. Stacy has covered most all pertinent information. Be careful forging can be addictive.

Fred
 
Fred had some fun when I started designing the two-stage PID control. He took making a forge to a new level. Here are some of his photos of Vulcan's Chariot.
32765-c364266eb0712f1a3ef7a90ef5707b9d.jpg
32766-a343fef6f6da101cd9056f0d1eca5b5d.jpg


This is a thread on the build:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/vulcans-chariot-is-ready-to-tune.540299/

I have one sort of like his I call Ilmarinen's Sampo that I am rebuilding. It is crazy over the top. The sampo was a magical machine Ilmarinen made in a great forge. In some versions of the story, he needed the heavens to hold the forge , fanned by the four winds, .... and the stars are the sparks from Ilmarinen's forge.
He put in metals and made many wondrous things, but all were evil, so he destroyed them. Finally, he produced the sampo, a magical machine that could produce gold, salt, and grain merely by turning the crank.
In the earliest versions, he was a blacksmith God very similar to Vulcan or Thor. In later and more popular versions, he was a mortal with legendary skills as a blacksmith who could make anything.
 
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