Forge burners heating up after being turned off

T

Tyrell Knifeworks

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Nov 4, 2019
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4
I just upgraded my propane forge and replaced my single homemade burner with dual Geode G4 burners. They are at a 30 degree angle coming into the forge and are seated in a pipe with tapped bolts to hold them. They don't protrude into the forge beyond the kaowool. They work great and the forge runs perfectly. When running, the burners are cool to the touch (at least above the air inlet)... but when I turn them off the heat seems to travel up from the forge and heats up the burners incredibly hot. So hot I've compromised the integrity of the hoses. This never happened on my homemade ones. Something I'm missing?
 
DevinT said:
Heat rises, simple as that. While the gas and air are moving through the tube, it stays cool.

Hoss
Click to expand...

While obviously true, that doesn't really help me much. It was reaching 400-500 degrees which is melting the hoses. Have others encountered this before? What do you do about it? I've already purchased metal braided hoses but I still fear the hose within will still melt if the burner is reaching 400-500 degrees.
 
Here's a picture from the listing...
91caIxqBB4L._SX679_.jpg


Here's the link to the burner system in Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Goede-Forge-...e+burner+Geode+G4&qid=1572891442&sr=8-1-fkmr1

If I have to, I guess I could make rings so they seat well each time and just remove them after use. Kind of a bummer though. I never seemed to have this problem before.
 
How are you shutting the gas off? If you are just turning the tank off, it is possible that there is a tiny flame burning for a while in the burner tube after shutting the tank off.

First thing I would do is put a 1/4"needle valve at each burner, and a shut off valve at at the regulator. That will make your forge much better to tune and shut off immediate and secure.

1) If possible, rotate your forge so the burners are at a downward angle (the end in the forge is higher than the end with the hose. You could turn it so the hose ends of the burners are pointing toward the floor. This will stop the heat from venting up the burner tube.

2) Make up copper tubing to replace the "Y" from the single hose to the two burners. Metal clad gas hoses may also be a solution.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
How are you shutting the gas off? If you are just turning the tank off, it is possible that there is a tiny flame burning for a while in the burner tube after shutting the tank off.

First thing I would do is put a 1/4"needle valve at each burner, and a shut off valve at at the regulator. That will make your forge much better to tune and shut off immediate and secure.

1) If possible, rotate your forge so the burners are at a downward angle (the end in the forge is higher than the end with the hose. You could turn it so the hose ends of the burners are pointing toward the floor. This will stop the heat from venting up the burner tube.

2) Make up copper tubing to replace the "Y" from the single hose to the two burners. Metal clad gas hoses may also be a solution.
Click to expand...

First off, thanks for the advice, Stacy!

I usually turn down the regulator to zero and turn off the tank and I've confirmed there is no flame at all when I turn them off. I used to have a needle valve on my old burner but I found I never used it so I didn't bother on this setup.

I thought about rotating the forge burners but that's a bit of a pain. When I redo the forge itself, I'll consider that though. For now I've ordered the metal-clad y-splitter hoses (my old burner had it but it was a single) so perhaps that will do the trick. I really wanted to pipe the two burners together with solid brass piping and just have a single hose but I'm about a 1/2" too narrow to get that piping to fit.

Thanks for all your advice though!
 
You can make a custom manifold for the gas from 1/4" brass pipe. The simplest way is to thread two longer than needed pieces into a tee and then mark where the burner will be on each side. Cut the pipe at a 45° angle through that spot. Take the cutoff pieces from the opposite 45° to mate with the manifold and braze the pieces together to make a 90° turn. This should be the exact spacing of the burner fittings. Screw on the needed fittings, and you have rigid burners and manifold.

When you have two burners, a needle valve on each is wise so you can fine-tune the burners. A cut-off ball valve at the regulator allows quickly shutting down the forge without having to re-adjust everything when ready to re-light it.
 
I've always recommended to remove the burner as soon as you shut off the forge. 2300°F going back up a short burner tube can damage your orifice, PTFE, and definitely compromise the rubber hoses. I also recommend not turning off one burner while the other is running. It simply turns the unused burner into a chimney.
 
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