Forge design and safety features

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Aug 20, 2004
Messages
37,911
This subject comes up regularly, so I thought I would make a thread on it. Later on I can move the thread to the forge info sticky. Please post your comments and suggestions in this thread. Try to use personal experience and knowledge instead of "I heard/read". If it is something you have from a good source, suppose, or theorize, state that.

1) The primary features of a forge are the insulation and the burner. Most other features are in the "nice to have" regions. These topics are pretty often discussed and can be found in a search. Anyone who has a suggestion or question is free to post/ask it on this thread. Round vs square etc. are als pretty well covered in previous discussions.

2) Safety is a big concern with a forge, so that is what I am going to discuss.
Fire Safety:
Forges should be built from a metal that will hold up to the wear and tear and heat. This is usually plain steel pipe or other tubing. They should also be mounted solidly on a steel cart. Thickness only needs to be enough to weld things to and support the insulation/refractory.

A forge should be at least 4 feet from any flammable surface or materials. This is important, as a fire
that starts in a wall or other place may smoulder and erupt hours later.

Do not out the propane tank closer than 6 feet from the forge, and have the hose running sideways from the forge ... never forward, back or underneath. Using a metal clad propane line is a very smart idea.

People worry about propane flowing after the power goes out. The simple solution for stopping the propane flow if the power goes out or at the end on the day is to install a standard fuel gas solenoid in the fuel line. It can be wired to a separate switch, the PID control, or the wall light switch. To use the light switch, install a DPST switch in the wall plate and use one set of contacts to control the solenoid and the other the lights. This way when you leave and shut off the lights, you shut off the propane tank. You should always shut the valve manually, but the redundant fail-safe is wise.

You used to read that the blower should be higher than the forge. This was to prevent propane from flowing down the burner pipe/manifold during a power outage and igniting when the blower turns on when the power restores. This is a very unlikely situation unless you don't shut off the gas valve when the power goes out. The solenoid mentioned above will solve that situation. The better reason not to have the blower above the forge is that when it is shut off hot gasses rise up the tube and can damage the blower or even overheat the gas inlet valve and cause a fire. Having the blower horizontal or under the forge is a far better arrangement.

3) Physical Safety:
Using a forge safely is simple and easy. Not doing things right can cause severe injury or a fire.

Wear the right clothes. Cotton fabrics, long heavy pants, long sleeve heavy shirt, leather shoes/boots that cover all the foot. Sneakers and sandals are just asking for trouble. Tie back long hair. If you have a bushy beard, avoid any flash of flame when lighting the forge. Forging gloves are a must for most all hot work. The hammer hand usually has a thinner leather glove and the tong hand a heavier gauntlet type glove.
All observers and helpers should wear the same type protective clothing. As much as bikini clad cheerleaders watching your muscles ripple sounds great, it isn't such a good idea ( especially if your wife finds out).
A sturdy and reasonably thick leather apron will protect you from the dragon's breath and accidental contact with hot metal. Do NOT wear a cotton shop apron, as they can easily catch fire. No frayed cuffs on your shirt sleeves for the same reason.

Wear eye/face protection ... ALL the time. Hearing protection is a very good idea, too.
Stand to the side as you ight the forge. Turn on the gas only after you have light the igniter. A long flexible stem fireplace or candle lighter is the best tool for the job.

Make some sort of support shelf to rest the work stock and/or rebar handles on. A simple "U" shaped piece of 1/2" round stock that round through some pieces of pipe welded on the sides of the forge will make an adjustable length support. Weld a 6X2" steel plate on the end to make a rest area. Pull it out or push it in as needed to support the work.

While HT is best done in subdued light, you want good lighting when working around the forge.

CLEAR the floor and area 10 feet around the forge of all trip hazards, electric cords, and projecting objects. Sweep away and wood dust or paper scraps. When working damascus, the area needs to be cleared for 20 feet or more.

Don't work in the shop when you have been drinking alcohol, and don't drink alcohol when you are working in the shop. Drugs and such obviously are even more verboten.
Don't work when too tired, distracted, mad, upset, overly sad, or depressed.
Don't let the kids play in or around the shop when you are working with power tools or the forge.
Music in the shop is fine, but headphones should be used with discretion. If you are jamming to Metallica and can't hear someone telling you your shop is on fire that is a bad thing!
Try to place equipment so the entrance door and open areas are in your view. This may prevent getting startled while working with dangerous equipment.


OK, that is a good start. Comments and additions.
 
Last edited:
If I could only work with no trip hazards and no kids in the shop, I'd never get anything done... Conversely, I do get a lot more done when the kids aren't in the shop.
 
Try to place equipment so the entrance door and open areas are in your view. This may prevent getting startled while working with dangerous equipment.
I'll add to make sure any MIG/TIG/arc welding procedures are visually blocked from entrance doors/open areas to avoid blinding the public. But I guess that's more under shop safety and not forge safety. I'll delete if you want, Stacy.

A long flexible stem fireplace or candle lighter is the best tool for the job.
Second only, perhaps, to lighting a scrap of paper, putting it in the forge, then walking around to turn on the gas....;)
 
Last edited:
Putting a piece of burning paper in the forge and turning on the gas usually works well, but in some cases as the gas ignites it can send the burning paper out the front and across the shop a good ways. If one uses the burning paper method, make sure the gas pressure is turned down.
 
Had a good little forge scale burn the other day.

I've only had my foege a short while. I can say, my steel braided gas line is not 6 feet long. More like 4'.

I have an Atlas Graham blown forge.

Good stuff so far.
 
Don’t work with the forge (or other dangerous shop equipment), when overly tired.
 
Had a good little forge scale burn the other day.

I've only had my foege a short while. I can say, my steel braided gas line is not 6 feet long. More like 4'.

I have an Atlas Graham blown forge.

Good stuff so far.


I'd also point out how easy it is to get overheated and dehydrated. I was forging this summer in the heat. Garage open. In the sunlight. Let my self get way too hot!
 
Any thoughts as to a spark arrester on a solid-fuel forge?
I don’t see very many outdoor forges with a hood or chimney, but I live in a tinder box called the Sonoran desert, and the firefighter and ER nurse down the street moved out a few months back. I feel like I should be following the same basic principles as a smoker, but a difference of 1000-2000F is a wildcard for me.

My first 2 thoughts went to ventilation ducting or corrugated culvert pipe, but I imagine there are considerations regarding either of these that I haven’t thought about yet. My standing design is based off of a rain collection barrel, with a door cut into the bottom, and a cap over the top of the downspout/chimney pipe instead of connecting to a gutter.

Also a facet of the corrugated that is more rhetorical in nature and would probably be a pretty good design experiment for a Fluid Dynamics mid-term:
Would the twist of the corrugated contribute to the vortex action of the exhaust and create additional natural draw? Would it even be noticeable?

I’ve seen what happens when an Ansul system blows on a kitchen line, and I really don’t want to deal with retardant cleanup…
 
What fuel are you using? With coal/coke you probably don't need one, but if you're using charcoal you probably do.

Charcoal pumps out tons of sparks when you disturb it.
 
Any thoughts as to a spark arrester on a solid-fuel forge?
I don’t see very many outdoor forges with a hood or chimney, but I live in a tinder box called the Sonoran desert, and the firefighter and ER nurse down the street moved out a few months back. I feel like I should be following the same basic principles as a smoker, but a difference of 1000-2000F is a wildcard for me.

My first 2 thoughts went to ventilation ducting or corrugated culvert pipe, but I imagine there are considerations regarding either of these that I haven’t thought about yet. My standing design is based off of a rain collection barrel, with a door cut into the bottom, and a cap over the top of the downspout/chimney pipe instead of connecting to a gutter.

Also a facet of the corrugated that is more rhetorical in nature and would probably be a pretty good design experiment for a Fluid Dynamics mid-term:
Would the twist of the corrugated contribute to the vortex action of the exhaust and create additional natural draw? Would it even be noticeable?

What fuel are you using? With coal/coke you probably don't need one, but if you're using charcoal you probably do.

Charcoal pumps out tons of sparks when you disturb it.
Until I can source coal/coke locally, I’m left with charcoal. Rather surprised how difficult it seems to be. Tack/feed stores don’t, tractor supply/cal ranch don’t. It’s weird to me. There’s a lot of horse country out here, and a number of talented farriers, yet no smithy supply within 100mi…
(Given my research. Somebody prove me wrong. Please.)
 
Since you never filled out your profile info, no one knows where you live, so it would be hard to "prove you wrong".

In horse country I thought 100 miles was considered "local".
I would check with a local farrier and ask where he gets his coal. Maybe get some along with him on his next order. That said, many farriers use gas nowadays.
Forging coal can be ordered online from many places, Amazon, Walmart, and most blacksmith supplies. With free shipping it runs $1.50 a pound. Search "Forging Coal" and "Blacksmith Coal".


As to corrugated pipe creating a swirl and increasing draw, it will mainly act as a turbulence creator, and slow draw. Smooth pipes make a better draw.
As for a second chamber in the flue to trap sparks, I guess that would work but can't say I ever saw one. Seem it would greatly reduce draw.
Your best bet is a standard "chimney" spark arrestor at the outlet of the flue. Maybe a grate or coarse screen in the hood would help as well.
 
Ok, interesting with my profile…But S.AZ, and 100mi radius runs from the border fence halfway up the state.
 
Back
Top