Forge Heat Treating W2, 1075, 1095 with Hamon

Col Defender

Col Defender

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Nov 11, 2011
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OK - Next month I am going to a somewhat advanced 2 day class specifically on guards, handles and Hamons. I have never tried a Hamon. We students are to bring a couple of partly finished blades to the class, one of which is ready for heat treating. The plan is to do a Hamon on this blade and then heat treat it at the class site which I am assuming will be well equipped for HT. The instructor recommends that the blade to be used for a Hamon be W2, 1075, 1095 or "possibly 1084". I can easily bring a 1084 blade but am thinking that the other steels mentioned will take a hamon better than 1084 and that is the reason the instructor is saying "possibly 1084".

I always work with 1084 and HT it at home with a 2 burner Majestic propane forge and canola quench but certainly could order one of the other steels from Aldo and prepare a blade for the class. Then of course, I will have about 3' of this new steel left over at home. My question is: Which one of those other steels would allow me to do Hamons at home after the class with my newly gained knowledge and still be heat treatable with my modest facilities at home? (If any)

Thanks very much!
 
I think Aldo's 1075 is the best option for reliably producing results in a forge. I've done hamon with all three, all three work well to different degrees depending on what you're going for. W2 is my favorite and I've done that in a forge, but I don't think I'm skilled enough at judging temperature to get the most out of W2 in that process, and the knives I've done in a kiln perform better. But 1075 is a lot like 1084 in it's forgiving heat treat, and will produce a much better hamon than 1084 will (which, in my experience will only create something of a temper line).

In short, your ultimate question about which will work for the class and be most useful to you after, I think 1075 is the answer. Though I love W2 and will likely be bringing a W2 blank to the same class.

1095 hunter I'm working on currently
yqWpXJZ.jpg


1095 I did a while back
PHtFwaT.jpg


1075 drop point I haven't yet finished
zjlD7Hf.jpg


W2 I did for the last KITH
t4g8WXj.jpg
 
Aldo also said his 15N20 is making really nice hamon when I was asking about it as an alternative to 1084 to backyard HT in a 2 brick forge and canola. Similar to 1075 with nickel but thinner stock if that's a consideration.
 
kuraki said:
I think Aldo's 1075 is the best option for reliably producing results in a forge. I've done hamon with all three, all three work well to different degrees depending on what you're going for. W2 is my favorite and I've done that in a forge, but I don't think I'm skilled enough at judging temperature to get the most out of W2 in that process, and the knives I've done in a kiln perform better. But 1075 is a lot like 1084 in it's forgiving heat treat, and will produce a much better hamon than 1084 will (which, in my experience will only create something of a temper line).

In short, your ultimate question about which will work for the class and be most useful to you after, I think 1075 is the answer. Though I love W2 and will likely be bringing a W2 blank to the same class.

1095 hunter I'm working on currently
yqWpXJZ.jpg


1095 I did a while back
PHtFwaT.jpg


1075 drop point I haven't yet finished
zjlD7Hf.jpg


W2 I did for the last KITH
t4g8WXj.jpg
Click to expand...
 
You want low manganese content and lower austenize temps for a popping hamon. The late John White used to use small Fogg forge with a thermocouple and temps as low as like 1425F and a 10 minute soak after coming back up to temp with W2 IIRC.I may be off the temp a little,but it was lower than the typical 1465-1475F.
 
Yep, and Aldo's 1075 is low manganese. I believe he stated it should actually be called 1076?

I've never gone as low as 1425 but agree the low end of the scale is where the best activity has been for me.
 
Thanks everyone for the good advice. I just got off Aldo's website having planned to buy some 1075 just for the class and discovered that with shipping it would cost $65 and change for one 4' piece. So for now I will just stick with what I have and if at the class I discover that making Hamons is something I really want to do then I will re-look the options. Thanks again.
 
kuraki said:
Yep, and Aldo's 1075 is low manganese. I believe he stated it should actually be called 1076?

I've never gone as low as 1425 but agree the low end of the scale is where the best activity has been for me.
Click to expand...

I use 1425 to 1430 for hitachi white.
 
Col Defender said:
Thanks everyone for the good advice. I just got off Aldo's website having planned to buy some 1075 just for the class and discovered that with shipping it would cost $65 and change for one 4' piece. So for now I will just stick with what I have and if at the class I discover that making Hamons is something I really want to do then I will re-look the options. Thanks again.
Click to expand...

How big a piece do you want for the class? I have 1075, 1095, and W2 on hand and can get you a chunk for the blank you want to bring to the class.
 
Willie71 said:
I use 1425 to 1430 for hitachi white.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I'm hand sanding a white kwaiken right now that doesn't appear to have developed the hamon I was hoping for. It's there, just not what I was expecting. There's no way I'm going to re harden this one as it's finish ground and thin and warped like I wouldn't believe the first time and I've got too much time into straightening it out already, but next time I'll give that a try. How long of a soak?
 
kuraki said:
How big a piece do you want for the class? I have 1075, 1095, and W2 on hand and can get you a chunk for the blank you want to bring to the class.
Click to expand...
Wow - thank you Kuraki. I planned a drop point hunter for the hamon. oal 11". A piece of 1075 1/8" or 3/16" thick and 1 1/2" wide, 12" long just to be safe, would be perfect. If you were to send it to me i could cut out and grind a blank before I get to the class and we can either settle up there or I can Pay Pal you for the steel and shipping today. Your call and thank you!!!
 
Increasing carbon content decreases austenitizing temperature. Nickel does the same. Chromium requires increasing the austenitizing temp. Each alloy changes things a bit. There are charts out there that show the impact from each different alloy. Hitachi white, with 1.1% to 1.2% carbon requires lower austenitizing temps than W2 or 1095.
 
Col Defender said:
Wow - thank you Kuraki. I planned a drop point hunter for the hamon. oal 11". A piece of 1075 1/8" or 3/16" thick and 1 1/2" wide, 12" long just to be safe, would be perfect. If you were to send it to me i could cut out and grind a blank before I get to the class and we can either settle up there or I can Pay Pal you for the steel and shipping today. Your call and thank you!!!
Click to expand...

I'll PM you tonight with what I have on hand that's closest to what you want.
 
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