Forge troubleshooting tips

Justin Schmidt

Justin Schmidt

Joined
Feb 18, 2016
Messages
2,209
So it was time to do some forge maintenance. The satinaite had cracked and the wool was literally falling apart. Tried making one just out of kastolite with no luck. Ordered 2in of kaowool and decided to use a thin layer of kastolite ae the coating. Also replaced my cheap PID with one from aubren along with the SSR.
So now when I set the temp the relay will shut the gas off when it hits the desired temperature but it wont turn back on. I can hear the ssr clicking turning the gas back on but it wont reignite. If I take a lighter to it it fires right back up. I've adjusted the gas and air flow (forced air) up and down and regardless I still have the same issue. Thoughts?
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What is the set point temperature? Also, what is the output cycle time?

The chamber temperature needs to (still) be well above the autoignition temperature of the air/fuel mixture you are running when the mixture starts flowing.

For kiln burners on NG over here, the point above which ignition is assumed to be certain and individual monitoring is not needed on multiple burners, is 800 degC, 1472 degF.

Are you just switching gas, or gas and air?

If you have independent control of gas and air, you may be better served by adjusting to get the mixture/temperature you want and running constantly.
 
Well the original forge worked fine that's why I'm perplexed.
I've tried 1250, 1450, 1650, 1750 and they all give the same results. I'm wondering since I used kastolite this time to completely line the gorge of it just isn't holding the temp. I Also removed the doors for ease of installation
 
Look in the stickys and read on my two-stage burner control. It will keep the forge lit and cycle between pre-set HI and LOW flame settings. It makes the job of the PID much easier.

Castolite is great stuff, but it has to soak and get hot before the forge will run right. The forge should run on HI for 5 to 15 minutes (depending on forge size) to get it fully soaked.

Post some photos of the whole forge and burner setup so we can see what the issue is.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Look in the stickys and read on my two-stage burner control. It will keep the forge lit and cycle between pre-set HI and LOW flame settings. It makes the job of the PID much easier.

Castolite is great stuff, but it has to soak and get hot before the forge will run right. The forge should run on HI for 5 to 15 minutes (depending on forge size) to get it fully soaked.

Post some photos of the whole forge and burner setup so we can see what the issue is.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately the thread is no longer in the stickys. Went to the PID forge build that had a like to silver_pilates thread which had links to the original thread your referencing and it says the thread no longer exists.
Should I just switch to a venturi burner? Was thinking of getting the trex burner
 
Couldn't find the part that describes exactly how to do the low/high setting. Nick mentioned it in his post.
I'm going to do a ribbon burner forge. However without a welder it makes basically impossible to build one. So I'm looking into buying one. Should I use the forge I have now and cut a slot for it for the ribbon burner, buy a whole new forge with a ribbon burner ($400 from texas forge) or buy a ribbon burner (~ 200+) and build one out of soft fire bricks (~100 shipped from high temp tools) the way @JTknives has??
 
His is definitely awesome. Is the blacksmith depot blower good enough for a ribbon burner? I've read conflicting things
 
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