forged 1080,buckeye burl, and wrought iron

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Jan 17, 2008
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wanted to hold off posting this till tomorrow,because it's not 100%, i just glued up, so i need to clean it up tomorrow, after it's cured.

but i couldn't wait, so you can expect to see better pics tomorrow, here it is,

stabilized buckeye burl, forged 1080, and wrought iron fittings, that have been etched.


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thanks for looking
andrew takach
 
I like it a lot. The The sculpting of the handle looks different than I am used to, but it looks it would fit comfortably in the hand.
 
I like it a lot. The The sculpting of the handle looks different than I am used to, but it looks it would fit comfortably in the hand.


thanks keith , and BTW, my job is complete then , because i strive to be different.;)

thanks all,

andrew,

btw, ill post specs tomorrow
 
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Here's some better finished pics, and some details on the knife.

It's been fully flat ground, and edge hardened. The blade has a satin finish, and the fittings were deeply etched and lightly buffed off to a satin finish.

The handle is stabilized buckeye burl, and the tang sets about 3"+ into the handle, and is pinned internally,as well as being filled solid with epoxy.

The wrought iron in this guard has a lot of grain, more than in most iv'e used.

The o.a.l of knife is 11 1/4'', the blade is 6 1/2 long, and 1 7/16'' wide at the
plunge.

The spine is a hair over 1/8'' at the guard, and tapers toward the tip so it's
little light to go chop a cord of wood with, but a solid built knife none the
less.


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thanks for looking,
andrew takach
 
I'm gonna be straight with you on this one. Usually I don't say anything if I don't like a knife, but I like your approach and think you deserve unvarnished opinions.
A stock thickness of 1/8 for a 6" blade is very practical and I bet it's a nice backpacking type knife due to the light weight. I also think the proportions of the fittings are bang on and the etched iron contrasts really nice with the beautiful finish you put on that blade.
I guess to be fair, I'd have to hold onto it to really appreciate the nuances, but from the photo, that handle just does nothing for me. There's too much going on in terms of activity and coloring. A more homogeneous handle would look nicer I think. And the shape of the handle, well, like I said I guess one would have to hold it, but there doesn't seem to be much flow going on. It's just too lumpy.
Anyway, I have the best of intentions here in being straight with you. I hope you take my criticisms in the spirit in which they're offered:).
 
I'm gonna be straight with you on this one. Usually I don't say anything if I don't like a knife, but I like your approach and think you deserve unvarnished opinions.
A stock thickness of 1/8 for a 6" blade is very practical and I bet it's a nice backpacking type knife due to the light weight. I also think the proportions of the fittings are bang on and the etched iron contrasts really nice with the beautiful finish you put on that blade.
I guess to be fair, I'd have to hold onto it to really appreciate the nuances, but from the photo, that handle just does nothing for me. There's too much going on in terms of activity and coloring. A more homogeneous handle would look nicer I think. And the shape of the handle, well, like I said I guess one would have to hold it, but there doesn't seem to be much flow going on. It's just too lumpy.
Anyway, I have the best of intentions here in being straight with you. I hope you take my criticisms in the spirit in which they're offered:).



I absolutley take that very well, and appreciate the honest opinion, not sure this is appropriate for a family viewing forum or not, but Lorien for someone to blow smoke up my a$$ and tell me how wonderful something is , when it's not "doing it for them", isn't gonna help a maker get any better, and there opinion must be at least taken into consideration, if a maker ever wants to build something desired by collectors. i hope that made sense.:confused:

It's the honest opinion, that im looking for, if someone is making garbage and is told how wonderful it is then they'll always be satisfied with making garbage.

that being said, The way i sculpted / shaped the wood for this knife, truthfully fits the hand rather well, maybe it's hard to tell from the photo, but when you hold it, the handle neck's down around the bottom of the guard and spacer, then from the top and bottom, goes into a palm swell, to give something to grip on firmly, then goes dips in to recieve the ball of your hand, and ending with a flared out butt, to aid in holding on to it if swung, and though it maybe a little unconventional looking, it's rather comfortable.

Since were speaking honestly, the only thing, i'd change about the handle would be , i'd add 1/4'' -1/2'' to the length of the handle.

the actuall handle part's probably about 4 1/8- 4 1/4'', and for my hands it fits just fine, and for most it will, but that extra 1/2'' goes along way......for a knife handle that is ;) , and also i'd detail the spacer, a little.

since this wasn't an order, and was just one of my own builds, i just made what i wanted and what felt good to me, but if someone want a knife similar but disliked the contour of the handle, ....no problem, i'd just shape there handle to meet there specifications.

lorien, thanks for speaking up, i like when people can be honest, and not just browse through the postings, and say how wonderful everything is , cause it's not, and i think constructive critism, presented properly, will make a so-so knifemaker, a damn good knifemaker one day................maybe;)

andrew
 
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you've got some class, Andrew!:thumbup::cool:
 
Here's some better finished pics, and some details on the knife....

The handle is stabilized buckeye burl, and the tang sets about 3"+ into the handle, and is pinned internally,as well as being filled solid with epoxy....

andrew takach

Andrew, I really like the knife. California buckeye is one of my favorite woods, but I, too, am not very fond of the shape of the handle. It appears to me that the upsweep in the back would tend to force ones hand forward and, while that may be OK if ones hands were quite small, I am unsure it would be comfortable if one needed to use it for an extended period.

What really prompted my post, however, was your statement that the tang is pinned internally. Now you have me completely puzzled. How does one set a pin internally in a hidden tang knife? I have done hidden pins in a slab handle, but would not have a clue how to do it on a hidden tang. Just curious.

Paul :confused:
 
How does one set a pin internally in a hidden tang knife? I have done hidden pins in a slab handle, but would not have a clue how to do it on a hidden tang. Just curious.

Paul :confused:


not sure it's what you would "pinned" but i take the tangs, and drill a series of 1/16'' holes in them, then cut short pins that extend maybe 1/8'' on each side of tang, and put 2-3 of them in the holes, then fill solid with fiberglass resin epoxy. the epoxy surrounds the pins, and filles the holes, which prevents the tang from ever being pulled from the epoxy.......

one time i had a knife i :o put the guard on upside down, and didnt realize it till next day (late night in shop)....any way i ended up breaking the tang, by bending back and forth numerous times and prying out on it , and the tang never broke free. those pins really help to lock the knife in place.

andrew
 
I played with this knife yesterday, and aside from the handle being a tad short for me, it fits in the hand very well. bruce/birdog
 
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