Russ, when forging the bevel on the blade, (I'll say it again) make sure you work both sides evenly. It's the most important thing to remember. In fact, I learned a trick at the Hammer-In at Washington from Mr. Keeslar. When just starting out, count the number of blows and try to measure the energy of each blow. Start at the ricasso and work toward the tip of the blade. Count your blows, flip the blade and deliver the same number of blows. Use, light rapid blows with a medium sized hammer. A rounded face will help you more than a flat one. Less grinding later. Also, don't forget to bend a radius in the blade from ricasso to tip. You want the inside of the bend to be the edge side. The blade will straighten out as you forge the bevel on. You just have to guess how much bend, depending on thickness and width of your steel.
When you get close to shape and thckness, switch to a lighter hammer that is polished and tap, tap, tap your way to a nice semi-finished blade surface. My tap, tap, tap hammer is a 1.5 lb. straight peen. I modified it to do the finish work. Also, a shorter handle will help you to develop more accurate blows in my experience.
I've seen your hammers, old buddy. You need to invest in some variety. I'll bet I've got 20 hammers in my shop. I don't use them all, but occasionally, I'll find that I need something a little different and find that I already have what I need in my collection. I buy them at a local flea market. Get them for pennies on the dollar and clean them up as I find a need for them. Email me and maybe I can set you up with a few. Whatever you do, don't waste your money on the cheap hardware store variety. They just don't stand up to the kind of punishment you're going to give them. My email address is mburnett@cswnet.com
