Forging a Distal Taper

[Themilkman]

Quick question on forging a distal taper in. I find that when I forge the distal taper, then go to bevel, the edge of my knife is also tapered due to the distal preform. I find this only causes headaches when at the grinder to even things up. And if I draw out the area near the plunge more to compensate for the extra thickness, the belly of the knife protrudes more. What do you guys do to forge the distal taper, while also maintaining an even edge thickness?

 

[Jason Fry]

I forge in the distal taper only about 1/3 of the way from the tip. I forge the edge to even thickness all the way, then use a wood mallet (piece of firewood lol) to adjust the spine. If you get the blade good and orange/yellow hot, it'll move a bit and you can straighten out the spine and deal with any belly protrusions.

 

[Themilkman]

I forge in the distal taper only about 1/3 of the way from the tip. I forge the edge to even thickness all the way, then use a wood mallet (piece of firewood lol) to adjust the spine. If you get the blade good and orange/yellow hot, it'll move a bit and you can straighten out the spine and deal with any belly protrusions.

I appreciate the reply. Let me pick your brain for a second!

1.) If forging a flat grind knife, is there really a need for the distal taper? I feel as if it will form naturally
2.) When grinding your knife, does the distal taper stop at the plunge, or extend into the ricasso and to the guard shoulders?

Thanks

 

[Jason Fry]

1. Yes. You can grind some distal in there, but it works better to forge it first.
2. I tend to personally favor a flat ricasso, tapered from there.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

In the case of san-mai, and other billets with a core, all tapers have to be evenly forged in before grinding.