Forging a tomahawk

rodriguez7

rodriguez7

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So, I’m planning my next project! I’m in the process of building a bigger forge than my atlas mini! I’m wanting to start forging hawk heads. What I’m thinking of starting with, is by using some old farrier rasps I have lying around, and forge welding a better cutting edge in. What would you recommend? I’m thinking probably 52100, or 8670. Primary uses would be chopping wood, maybe some skinning, or breaking down animals, possibly some good bone contact! Also, I’m thinking of using some old flat strap, from the hardware store for some hawk bodies with a welded edge also. Is this steel to soft? I think it’s really low carbon, like .3 percent. Will it be to soft and possibly deform?
 
rodriguez7 said:
So, I’m planning my next project! I’m in the process of building a bigger forge than my atlas mini! I’m wanting to start forging hawk heads. What I’m thinking of starting with, is by using some old farrier rasps I have lying around, and forge welding a better cutting edge in. What would you recommend? I’m thinking probably 52100, or 8670. Primary uses would be chopping wood, maybe some skinning, or breaking down animals, possibly some good bone contact! Also, I’m thinking of using some old flat strap, from the hardware store for some hawk bodies with a welded edge also. Is this steel to soft? I think it’s really low carbon, like .3 percent. Will it be to soft and possibly deform?
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You may have trouble fitting a hawk in an atlas mini.
 
Pretty sure that’s why he said he’s building a bigger forge.
It’s funny, I have an atlas style and I got some s7 to try a tomahawk in and realized I needed a bigger forge so I’m building a bigger one as well.
 
Josh Rider said:
Pretty sure that’s why he said he’s building a bigger forge.
It’s funny, I have an atlas style and I got some s7 to try a tomahawk in and realized I needed a bigger forge so I’m building a bigger one as well.
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Yeah, I read it wrong :rolleyes:
I read it as he wanted to make tomahawks with his mini.
 
You don't need any fancy steel for the bit. Anything from 1075 to 1084 will be fine. 5160 work, too.
I use 1075.

TIP:
The length of rasp steel needed will be smaller than you think. The "U" of rasp will be opened up when drifting out the eye, and it will get stretched as you forge out the bit. If you start with the size that seems right from a template based on the finished size, it will end up with a very long cheek.
 
Thanks for the reply, it definitely will be a learning curve! I’m just really interested in learning this! The reason I ask about the other Steel’s I mentioned, is that I currently have some on the shelf in my shop! I might have a few pieces of 1084 laying around somewhere.
 
I’m gonna start with an 80crv2 bit, then I’ll try the 8670. Thanks Stacy!!
 
Kentucky said:
Your flat should be around 9 1/2” long. 1 1/2” x 1/4” or so.. we use a lot of W1 for bits but most any good hc steel will work. I have a bunch of wip pics of wrap&weld hawks I can post tomorrow if you want[/QUOTEid love to see WIP pics too please
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Kentucky said:
Your flat should be around 9 1/2” long. 1 1/2” x 1/4” or so.. we use a lot of W1 for bits but most any good hc steel will work. I have a bunch of wip pics of wrap&weld hawks I can post tomorrow if you want
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I’m new to this, so I would love to see some pics. I tried welding a bit in last night with no success, I don’t think my forge is getting hot enough! I couldn’t reach yellow! My new burner should be in today or tomorrow! So hopefully I’ll have my new forge built by the weekend.
 
Another thing, on this new forge, I went with a single burner from atlas, it’s the 100k burner they have. Will this be enough? Or do I need 2 burners?
 
I rarely use my second burner but I sometimes do to get an even heat over a long blade and tang together and I'll probably need need it when going very hot for forge welding which I haven't really done in it yet
Cost wasn't a factor for me tho as I made simple Venturi burners so if cost isn't a factor for you I'd say get second burner even if you'll rarely use it
 
John mc c said:
I rarely use my second burner but I sometimes do to get an even heat over a long blade and tang together and I'll probably need need it when going very hot for forge welding which I haven't really done in it yet
Cost wasn't a factor for me tho as I made simple Venturi burners so if cost isn't a factor for you I'd say get second burner even if you'll rarely use it
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I’m thinking I could always add it, if the single doesn’t work, I’ll probably end up ordering one just to have it for more heat! Probably wouldn’t hurt to just add it in
 
rodriguez7 rodriguez7 What kind of burner are you using? a venturi?
When I was using a venturi in my little forge, I could get it up to welding temp, if I stuck an old hair drier behind the burner opening and blew extra air in. In fact, I got it so hot that I melted the satanite liner a bit. You can still maintain the correct mix if you also turn up the gas a bit... ideal? no. possible? yes.
 
A.McPherson said:
rodriguez7 rodriguez7 What kind of burner are you using? a venturi?
When I was using a venturi in my little forge, I could get it up to welding temp, if I stuck an old hair drier behind the burner opening and blew extra air in. In fact, I got it so hot that I melted the satanite liner a bit. You can still maintain the correct mix if you also turn up the gas a bit... ideal? no. possible? yes.
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It’s whatever came with my atlas forge! I didn’t think of trying a blow dryer. I may give it a shot. It’s a 30k burner according to their site. I couldn’t achieve welding heat for some reason, I switched tanks, and same thing.
 
Here is something Stacy said in another thread this week that may help you know if you are getting hot enough. copy and paste-

"Colors are based on the observer, and may appear different depending on the smith and the light, so you may be fine.

I like to stick a piece of coat hanger in the forge, pull it out after a few seconds and stick it in some borax, then put it back in and push it against the surface of the billet. If it is at welding temp, the wire will stick. Just twist it to remove and it will pop off."
 
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Spalted said:
Here is something Stacy said in another thread this week that may help you know if you are getting hot enough. copy and paste-

"Colors are based on the observer, and may appear different depending on the smith and the light, so you may be fine.

I like to stick a piece of coat hanger in the forge, pull it out after a few seconds and stick it in some borax, then put it back in and push it against the surface of the billet. If it is at welding temp, the wire will stick. Just twist it to remove and it will pop off."
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Tried it, with the blow drier I was able to get it hot enough to forge weld!! Thanks! I used an 8670 bit! We’ll see how the finished product turns out!!
 
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