Forging tongs--What steel to use?

R

Railrider1920

Joined
Dec 14, 2010
Messages
403
Hi Folks,
I have been thinking about trying to forge some tongs. It'll be practice forging and hopefully I'll end up w/ some useful tools. In one thread I saw somewhere, someone mentioned using #8 rebar. Another person recommended using low carbon steel, something like 4140 steel, but he wasn't sure. What about maybe the weldable flat stock that is offered for sale at places like lowes and home depot? Would this stuff be ok for tongs?
Thanks,
Rob
 
1/2" round rod from the big box stores is very good for making tongs.
Stan
 
I used rebar for all the tongs I have made and they work well for general forging. Rebar is pretty random in content so it is worth experimenting with a chunk of a bar before using it for anything important.
4140 would work well too and is probably what I would use if I were making them to sell, but it is pretty pricey compared to rebar which is free if you look in the right places.
 
One problem with rebar could be that there is random carbon content since it is made from recycled scrap and you don't know if they will harden or not. Tongs should be of any steel/iron that won't harden when water quenched. [You don't want them cracking after a water bath.]
 
I agree with pretty much everything above. Rebar is fine for making your own, especially while learning as it's dirt cheap/free as scrap. You gotta watch out for it's inconsistencies.

My favorite for tongs is 3/4" round mild steel. You can forge pretty hefty jaws out of it, but it's not so heavy that you can't draw the reins out by hand.

I find that for most bladesmithing the hardenable tongs problem is not a huge deal. Maybe if you were full immersion water quenching items out of a gas forge a lot.
 
Rebar comes in various grades but they are made to mechanical properties not chemistry so chemistry is not listed.
My friend said 'why do I have 1" rebar in the foundation of my house ? ' 'Because there was a big construction project nearby so I scrounged scrap rebar for my house ' LOL
 
Guys, thanks for all the replies. I'll look around for some rebar first. If I can make something that at least kind of works, than I think I'll make some more out of some round stock that was suggested.
Thanks again
 
Gary Mulkey said:
One problem with rebar could be that there is random carbon content since it is made from recycled scrap and you don't know if they will harden or not. Tongs should be of any steel/iron that won't harden when water quenched. [You don't want them cracking after a water bath.]
Click to expand...

Most steel these days is made from recycled scrap. That doesn't mean the alloy content can't be controlled.
 
me2 said:
Most steel these days is made from recycled scrap. That doesn't mean the alloy content can't be controlled.
Click to expand...

You're quite right. I should have said that in common rebar there aren't the controls given to it that you get with known steels (unless you get something like a schedule 60). I have always understood that most is simply whatever comes out of the shredder without an attempt to regulate the content. :)You may get a Ford on one end and a Chevy on the other.
 
Mild steel is fine..Some folks use 5160, some use 1045 and some more use 4140..Had mild steel tongs for years and they have held up fine..Even have a pair forged from wrought that hold up fine..
 
I have a set of old tongs that are wrought iron. So just about anything will work for tongs. Just need to make sure you forge the hinge area thick enough to hold up.
 
For those who like to make custom tongs, but would like the process to go a little faster, one of our forumites sells a great tong kit in two styles. You can shape the bits as you like for specific tasks. The reins can be forged into octagons ,round, twisted, or left as is. These make great starter projects for new smiths. You get a kit for about what the steel costs at HF.

http://www.polarbearforge.com/for_sale.htm
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top