Forgive me!

Terr

Terr

Joined
Mar 24, 2001
Messages
186
A couple of days ago I left my 18" sirupati in my car overnight. The next morning I picked it up and realized that the spine had been sitting in a thin layer of rust colored water (from a McDonald's cup) (melted ice). I remembered that I had some United Cutlery Metal-Glo and used that on the discolored areas. I got rid of most of the discoloration but there are still a couple of tiny areas that are in reality very lightly pitted but to me they look horrible because I was so careless. I think sandpaper would be overkill but the Metal-Glo will take a lot of time to go the couple thousandths of an inch needed to eliminate the pits. Is there a product a bit more abrasive than the Metal-Glo that I can use to polish a little quicker?

:confused:
 
Try steel wool (perhaps 0000- dunno) - with Flitz metal-polish it works quite well at getting rid of rust & discolouration.

--B.
 
I received my 30 inch Kobra today with some rust spots a pits. So being the capable person I think I am, I go into the shop and turn on my baldor buffing wheel 6000 rpm. It happened two hours ago. A 30" Kobra and a inexperienced buffer do you want to here the rest?????
 
A 30" Kobra and a inexperienced buffer do you want to here the rest?????
Click to expand...

It reads like the ingredients to a major medical emergency.... :eek:

Be safe.

n2s
 
Rust spots ain't all that bad. Leave them alone or you might not be able to use a computer.:D
 
Per Beo, the steel wool and Flitz (or Simichrome, if Flitz isn't around) should get the surface rust and discoloration. Depending on their size, the pits might require very fine sanding (800 to 100 grit) or you might remove them with a fine Arkansas or soft India stone. Then, polishing with jeweler's rouge on a rag should bring it back up to HI shine. If not, buff it. I'd much rather do small areas by hand. When I use anything more powerful thatn a Dremel Tool for buffing, the job runs away with itself until I've done the whole blade.
 
You might try some wet-or-dry silicon carbide sandpaper. It is found at auto parts or home improvement stores. I would start with 600 grit, then 1000,1500 and finally 2000 grit. Alternate sanding directions when you change grits. Follow up with your Metal-glo and you should be back to normal. Others may have better ideas.
 
A wise man once told me that the buffing wheel is probably the most dangerous tool in the shop. Strange & terrible things happen around them. Knives stuck an inch deep into block walls. Bloodshed. Not pretty.
 
Leave the rust to the dust bunnies and use the knife.

A buffing job at BirGorkha put an apprentice in the hospital for 2 or 3 days and out of work for a month. Guess who took up the gap? But he has not made the same mistake again.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top