Found plenty of "rust" discoloration under handle scales of "H1" Benchmade 100SH2O...

peacefuljeffrey

peacefuljeffrey

Joined
Feb 24, 2001
Messages
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I had taken my Benchmade 100SH2O dive knife out on my kayak (who knows when ago)...

Now, it's H1 steel, supposedly "unrustable."

I rinsed it with fresh water after use but then put it back into its sheath (mounted on my PFD vest) and I guess it was still wet.

Well, the next time I took it out and looked it over (I don't know how long between), it had small spots of what looked (and acted) like rust near the base of the blade, close to the handle. I looked closer tonight and found that along the ridge where the tang is sandwiched by the handle scales, there was also rust.

So I took off the handle scales (thank you, Blue Box!) and lo! and behold! There was a serious accumulation of rust discoloration on the tang! It had also stained the inside surfaces of the handle scales.

I busted out my tube of Flitz and set to work with paper towels and finally with a dish scrubby (the green side), and eventually got the handle scales completely clean of the rust stains. The knife, however, is a different story.

All the rust buildup is gone, but there are dark, mildly pitted spots wherever there had been rust before.

I don't understand why this happened. I thought the H1 steel simply would not do this.

Care to hazard a guess or theory about it? Is this knife supposed to be disassembled for cleanup after every day spent on the water, just to make sure it doesn't rust beneath the scales?? :confused:

Is it possible that it's not the knife's steel itself that rusted, but stuff ON the knife rusted?

Has anyone else experienced rust of any degree with an H1 knife?

-Jeffrey
 
No experience myself, we're currently doing a passaround with a Tasman Salt in Germany. Several people have tried to get H1 to rust, and failed. I suspect it's either stuff on the tang that rusted, or maybe parts of the screws that spread rust?

Frank K here on bladeforums even tried some sort of mild acid IIRC; and still didn't get H1 to rust.
 
I tend to agree with Richard. If salt water had come in contact with the scale screws, which are not H1 (I assume), then it could have spread, although that seems kind of unlikely. More likely would probably be that the salt water got under the scale near the front of the knife a little bit, and just sitting there with all of the oxygen it wanted would have definitely allowed the rust to spread. Even Swiss Army Knives, when left overnight in salt water, get a yellow tinge and after several days will get some rust spots. Swiss Army Knives are though of as being pretty stainless, and being submerged in the salt water should have made it rust much slower because there is so much less oxygen available. I have to hope that this is uncommon, or maybe the scale/tang mating on your knife is a little off and that it's not a design problem, but it doesn't look like there are any liners to act as a seal, and there's definitely no epoxy because the handles are removable. :confused: I don't know if you did or not, but the next time, I'd try really cleaning it with a garden hose with the nozzle on high pressure and giving it some light mineral oil. For non-coated finishes, White Lightning Metal Brite takes a lot off when you give it a little elbow grease. It's pretty much wax. Good luck!
 
Are you sure it's H1? Benchmade switched that model to what they described as a slightly less rust resistant but better edgeholding steel a good while back.
 
From my own experience with the Pacific Salt I would say, either BM skimped on the hardware and has protected them insufficiently from rust, or the knife is not H-1.
 
yoda4561 said:
Are you sure it's H1? Benchmade switched that model to what they described as a slightly less rust resistant but better edgeholding steel a good while back.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking, too. As others have mentioned, I've seen some pretty severe tests in which individuals have attempted (and failed) to get H1 blades to rust. My understanding is that X15 T.N, which Benchmade now uses in place of H1, does not possess the same level of rust resistance (indeed, rust-"proofness") as the steel it replaced.
 
I am going to assume your handle is made of the rubbery stuff what ever they call it in the benchmade scales are made of. . But if Metal or metal containing scales you may have experienced galvanic corrosion. Assumeing you know what that is. If not, it simply where two disimaler metals are tightly placed together. But like I said I do not think this is the case. But that is the only thing I can think of. You say you rinsed it without wipeing it. I see no reason for not wipeing a knife dry no matter what steel. And you actually put it back in the sheath wet. I think good knife or not even good but basic knife care should be put into practice here. Simply wipe it dry after use and the sheath also. If it is a high tech plastic one. Or at least blow the water out.

I think just because someone claims you cannot rust it does not pave the way for testing. Basic knife care no matter what the steel I think should be practiced on any steel no matter what the claim. And I also think all steels will that will hold an edge of any kind will rust no matter what anyone claims. Unless they are pure nickle.

Edit: What the other people have said makes a lot of sense. I suppose I should read a thread before I go giving out unwanted info LOL. But that makes a lot of sense. The screws should be made of H-1 as well and it would be sure easy enough to get cross contamanation with other metals in the factor thus the galvanic corrosion I spoke of can take place.


Kind Regards,

Daniel




peacefuljeffrey said:
I had taken my Benchmade 100SH2O dive knife out on my kayak (who knows when ago)...

Now, it's H1 steel, supposedly "unrustable."

I rinsed it with fresh water after use but then put it back into its sheath (mounted on my PFD vest) and I guess it was still wet.

Well, the next time I took it out and looked it over (I don't know how long between), it had small spots of what looked (and acted) like rust near the base of the blade, close to the handle. I looked closer tonight and found that along the ridge where the tang is sandwiched by the handle scales, there was also rust.

So I took off the handle scales (thank you, Blue Box!) and lo! and behold! There was a serious accumulation of rust discoloration on the tang! It had also stained the inside surfaces of the handle scales.

I busted out my tube of Flitz and set to work with paper towels and finally with a dish scrubby (the green side), and eventually got the handle scales completely clean of the rust stains. The knife, however, is a different story.

All the rust buildup is gone, but there are dark, mildly pitted spots wherever there had been rust before.

I don't understand why this happened. I thought the H1 steel simply would not do this.

Care to hazard a guess or theory about it? Is this knife supposed to be disassembled for cleanup after every day spent on the water, just to make sure it doesn't rust beneath the scales?? :confused:

Is it possible that it's not the knife's steel itself that rusted, but stuff ON the knife rusted?

Has anyone else experienced rust of any degree with an H1 knife?

-Jeffrey
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Padawan said:
That's what I was thinking, too. As others have mentioned, I've seen some pretty severe tests in which individuals have attempted (and failed) to get H1 blades to rust. My understanding is that X15 T.N, which Benchmade now uses in place of H1, does not possess the same level of rust resistance (indeed, rust-"proofness") as the steel it replaced.
Click to expand...

If I'm not mistaken, in the most recent runs, they've switched yet again - to N680.
 
I've spent several hours in the Pacific in Maui with my Pacific Salt on me and all it got was a rinse of fresh water and it never began to corrode whatsoever. All that showed rust was the laser ecthing on the number "1" in the H1 etching on the blade and that is already a known element because of remnant rustable particles from the laser bit or something like that.

Bottom line is, Spyderco HI does not rust whatsoever in my personal experience.
 
When I used to ocean kayak where it's stupid cold, it was not unusual to get stuck for a long time waiting for the ice to clear or following open leads. Everything rusts in fairly short order, even in the cold and the relatively unsalty water there. The only real alternative to rust, where you can't always take the knife apart and clean it regularly is titanium, talonite or stellite. I also have the Benchmade but have only used it in freshwater in cottage country. In that easy environment rust really isn't a problem.
Galvanic corrosion ie where dissimilar metals meet, certainly is a possibility, but I would have expected Benchmade to know better.
 
yoda4561 said:
Are you sure it's H1? Benchmade switched that model to what they described as a slightly less rust resistant but better edgeholding steel a good while back.
Click to expand...

Padawan said:
That's what I was thinking, too. As others have mentioned, I've seen some pretty severe tests in which individuals have attempted (and failed) to get H1 blades to rust. My understanding is that X15 T.N, which Benchmade now uses in place of H1, does not possess the same level of rust resistance (indeed, rust-"proofness") as the steel it replaced.
Click to expand...

You gents are correct. Benchmade does not currently use H1 on this.

The X15 TN alloy that Benchmade currently uses has been reported many times to have less corrosion resistance than H1

H1 does not rust as long as it is not in a reducing environment (one with no oxygen.)
 
Zombie thread.

Contamination from the belts used to grind the H1 that Benchmade used was a common problem with the model, and as already thoroughly covered x15tn is not rustproof.

Spydies have a similar issue on the H1 lettering of the Salt series, as the engraver tool tip leaves traces behind which will rust. So while the blade isn't rusting the tiny bits left behind from the engraver are.
 
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