frame lock 880

Joined
Apr 2, 2007
Messages
2,750
wondering if you could do a frame lock to a buck strider 880?? and about how much? and about how long?? thanks alot
 
Oh boy!

Here is the problem with that model and the 881 model Buck/Strider knives.

As I recall going from memory, the screw heads are actually smaller in diameter than the barrels they are assigned to in these models. I may be wrong and they may be the same diameter as the barrels but either way the problem in making a successful new lock side is the same. This will mean added steps and precautions to duplicate a new thicker ti slab lock side.

I will try to explain. Imagine the barrels used in the folder now are all 3/16" in diameter. Now imagine that the screw heads are only 5/32" in diameter or even 3/16" also. What would happen if I just drill my 3/16" holes is that the screws would slide right through that 3/16" hole because they are the same or smaller in diameter than the barrels. In other words I cannot drill 3/16" holes all the way through the slab when the barrels come this way with screws that are smaller or the same diameter as the barrels themselves. So, drilling the holes for this lock side will require partial holes to a certain depth only in the 3/16" barrel diameter and they must all be drilled from the inside out to just the right depth and no more and they have to be flat bottom holes also so the barrels seat flat like they are supposed to.

I believe it can be done but again it is very labor intensive with tolerances not allowing me to make even a hair width error or the whole thing is just a waste of titanium.

The other factor in that knife is that the whole knife was cut out with a laser so the holes in the thing now are those flat side type. If you look the pivot and other barrels have a flat side to them that locks in place in the liners so they don't spin. You'll lose this feature on the lock side but what those flat side holes do is make it impossible for me to use the old liner as a template to drill my holes precisely. It is a very challenging project to undertake. I've tried it once and failed on my own 881.

As I said I learned from that and believe it is possible but I don't know that anyone would want to spend what it would take to motivate me to attempt it again.:eek:

STR
 
Oh yeah. I should mention that I'm just using 3/16" as an example. Actually on those knives I believe the barrels are more like 7/32" or something but its been a while since I've had one apart.

STR
 
Sorry if its not what you wanted to hear Theo. I have run into issues trying to duplicate those laser cut parts on an occasion or two. On many I can still make a new side and I do it all the time with the Emerson conversions by using the G10 and thats what I'd have to do with this Buck model also.

Its just added steps with a bit more precision which means more drills, more change outs and double and triple checking as well as sometimes double and triple tapping or further work on each hole to get it just right that adds up to more time than a lot of the others which of course adds $ to the end total.

I'm just making sure you are aware of what I see from past experience.
I'm not saying I would not do it. Chances are if I did one and finally got one done to where it was spot on that I could make a template of my own to keep from that which would of course make it a lot easier for any future models that I was asked to do but I just rarely get a call to do one so it never happened. I think since that model first came out you are only the second guy to ask me about doing it on one of these. Last time was when I still belonged to the USN and I tried it first on my own to see if it was even possible. I ended up scrapping that one and moving on.

STR
 
oh no thats cool just happy im not going to be spending THAT much money all that works sounds like alot of $$$ but i will have u do my hd-7 so no worrys thanks
 
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