Frame lock slipping

M

Matt The Loader

Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Messages
40
Sorry if this has been asked, I didn't find any results through a google search of the site. My ZT 0301 has around 90% lockup. If I apply pressure to the spine of the blade, the lock slips out to about 50 percent. The lock face is rather scratched, which makes sense contacting hardened steel. I'm not worried about the knife unlocking or anything, but it annoys the crap out of me. Is there a way to fix this other than sending it in?
 
The pivot is tightened as far as it will go and still be assisted open. I cleaned both the lock face and the tang, all screws are tight. However the blade is perfectly centered...:rolleyes:
 
Try to increase spring tension? I had same problem with my 1st one. Solved after increasing spring tension. However lock will theoretically travel/wear faster now but with a lockbar this thick, it's mucho safe still :)

Hope this helps. When increasing the lock spring tension, take note of what's the position of the lockbar (how much bent it is) and gradually and in small increments, increase the tension by bending it further slightly. Little at a time.

Good luck.
 
Do not ever bend a lock, when you bend metal you stress it and make it weak at its point of bend. Your ZT needs to be sent back, the lock is worn out and needs to be fixed properly.
 
I always thought that they bend the lockbars to achieve tension. Without bending how do you create the tension? I'm pretty sure the kershaw people actually use a tool to adjust spring tension by bending it.

However your point is true regarding the weakening at point of bend. I have the same problem when I deal with bending steel reinforcement in the construction site. I think the key is to do it gradually and to do it as little time as possible (meaning do it once and do it right).

But I also agree that the official answer is to send it back. Just thought I'd give the poster a little tip to save him the postage cost and time. I always thought that the kershaw peeps will do the same thing as in bend it themselves.

Tq.
 
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The lock is heat treated and spring tempered, the tension from factory is always more than enough to move across the lock face and because its a Ti lock bending it can make things real bad. 90% engagement also tells you the lock has worn past spec and will no longer do its job properly.

Its always best to send a blade with a no questions asked warranty back to be properly serviced, locks are complex let the pros fix it.
 
Gotta keep that in mind for my more expensive folders. Truth be told since I live halfway round the world I'd manually adjust a cheapie framelock instead of ship it to and fro (about 40 to 50 USD in total) cause shipping may cost more than the knife :)

Thanks for the info. I'll send in my prized ones if ever something like this turns out :)
 
If you bent the lock and it seems fine, then I am sure it is. Titanium doesn't get weaker the more you bend it like most other metals. Someone posted here that they had a problem with a Sebbie and asked Chris Reeve himself about it at a Show. Chris Reeve bent the lockbar back into position by hand and it was good to go. Is yours a good model or a blem, cause you can't send blems in as they have no warantee
 
Sounds to me that the lock is past its service of use, i.e. the lock is overly worn.

It would be nice if someone offerred some aftermarket fix, such as adding a mil or two of metal to either the knife's or lockbar's mating surface. Plating should be viable.

Sometimes you can shift the scale with the lockbar and get satisfactory lockup. Loosen all the fasteners with the knife closed, shift the scale with the lockbar forward (toward the pivot), and tighten the frame fasteners up.

Or, you can see if you can get a greater in diameter bladestop pin made and fitted to allow a better lock-up.
 
orthogonal1 said:
Sounds to me that the lock is past its service of use, i.e. the lock is overly worn.

It would be nice if someone offerred some aftermarket fix, such as adding a mil or two of metal to either the knife's or lockbar's mating surface. Plating should be viable.

Sometimes you can shift the scale with the lockbar and get satisfactory lockup. Loosen all the fasteners with the knife closed, shift the scale with the lockbar forward (toward the pivot), and tighten the frame fasteners up.

Or, you can see if you can get a greater in diameter bladestop pin made and fitted to allow a better lock-up.
Click to expand...

You gonna love this solution :)

Take a worn lockbar and hammer it till slightly on both sides evenly until it slightly deforms. You have just lengthened your titanium lockbar!

You heard it here first :) I buy 2nd hand framelocks and liner locks and do this. I keep doing it little by little till it is sweet. In a way you are forging it somewhat, making the steel/material denser at the lockbar's tip area.

Regarding the forging and making it dense issue, I'm only guessing and could be wrong but it is logical :)

PS: It'll need some time to settle itself after initial attempt. Cause the surface does not conform to the blade tang. It'll take a short while to adjust itself properly. I fully tested my framelocks after this treatment. I do whacks on the spine in both to check the lock and to adjust the lockbar surface. Please wear safety gear or tape the blade.

PSPS: I like the bladestop increased diameter idea, much easier than my idea :)
 
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Cotherion said:
You gonna love this solution :)

Take a worn lockbar and hammer it till slightly on both sides evenly until it slightly deforms. You have just lengthened your titanium lockbar!

You heard it here first :) I buy 2nd hand framelocks and liner locks and do this. I keep doing it little by little till it is sweet. In a way you are forging it somewhat, making the steel/material denser at the lockbar's tip area.

Regarding the forging and making it dense issue, I'm only guessing and could be wrong but it is logical :)

PS: It'll need some time to settle itself after initial attempt. Cause the surface does not conform to the blade tang. It'll take a short while to adjust itself properly. I fully tested my framelocks after this treatment. I do whacks on the spine in both to check the lock and to adjust the lockbar surface. Please wear safety gear or tape the blade.

PSPS: I like the bladestop increased diameter idea, much easier than my idea :)
Click to expand...

The molecular spacing (and therefore density) in a titanium bar is the function of molecular alignment in response to intermolecular forces. A hammer has no power to change these forces. You can't beat a metal bar and make it more dense.

You occasionally hear about forgers 'edge packing' their knives to achieve the same effect. That's not real either. Even if you could bash the atoms closer together, they would space themselves back out as soon as the hammer bounced away.
 
knifenut1013 said:
The lock is heat treated and spring tempered, the tension from factory is always more than enough to move across the lock face and because its a Ti lock bending it can make things real bad.
Click to expand...

Factory tension is NOT always enough to wear it across the lock face. Found that out with a Strider and an Umnumzaan.
Pretty sure it's only steel locks which need heat treating for springiness too. Titanium is just "bend and go", as it were.
 
elkins45 said:
The molecular spacing (and therefore density) in a titanium bar is the function of molecular alignment in response to intermolecular forces. A hammer has no power to change these forces. You can't beat a metal bar and make it more dense.

You occasionally hear about forgers 'edge packing' their knives to achieve the same effect. That's not real either. Even if you could bash the atoms closer together, they would space themselves back out as soon as the hammer bounced away.
Click to expand...

That is good info to me. Thanks. Does that mean that forged 1095 blade has no benefits over stock removed 1095 blade for example?
 
stabman said:
Pretty sure it's only steel locks which need heat treating for springiness too. Titanium is just "bend and go", as it were.
Click to expand...

Exactly right! That was one of the many selling points used in suggesting the use of Ti instead of stainless steel for a liner lock/frame lock. The stainless steel has to be heat treated, wheres the Ti does not. Ti also has a better "memory" when it comes to bending.
 
3Guardsmen said:
Exactly right! That was one of the many selling points used in suggesting the use of Ti instead of stainless steel for a liner lock/frame lock. The stainless steel has to be heat treated, wheres the Ti does not. Ti also has a better "memory" when it comes to bending.
Click to expand...

Thought I remembered it right!:)
Nice when the old memory works.
 
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