Frame lock with scales

S

SOLEIL

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I just got a good look at a Ontario Hossom Retribution in another thread. It looks to be a framelock with scales as opposed to a traditional linerlock. Does anyone else make a folder this robust in a similiar manner?
 
Couldn't give you specific names, but I've seen a lot of framelock type knives that just have scale onlays or something. A lot of makers seem to have done them. IIRC, Brian Tighe was one of them. But I probably don't.
 
SOLEIL said:
I just got a good look at a Ontario Hossom Retribution in another thread. It looks to be a framelock with scales as opposed to a traditional linerlock. Does anyone else make a folder this robust in a similiar manner?
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on ag russell it looks to me to be a liner lock, albeit a thick linerlock.
 
The first knife like that I got was the Buck Strider spearpoint. The liners were so thick, if you took off the scales, you'd still have a big knife. I have the Retribution I and it's the same concept, massive liners under full handle scales.

The CRK knives have partial overlays, not full handle scales over the liners.
 
I have aWilkins Mouse linerelock. Lock is really thick and I usually take the scale and still use the knife like aframelock!
 
SOLEIL said:
I just got a good look at a Ontario Hossom Retribution in another thread. It looks to be a framelock with scales as opposed to a traditional linerlock. Does anyone else make a folder this robust in a similiar manner?
Click to expand...

That knife IS a liner lock. And so is the Strider AR/GB.

A Jerry Hossom design, this heavy-duty folding knife is sure to please.
The Retribution 2 is the smaller model in the Jerry Hossom Retribution Series.
n690c ;Steel
3 7/8" Blade
Titanium liner lock for safety
8 5/8" Overall
5" when closed
Included sheath.
 
Are you asking about framelocks with a scale on one side? if it has scales on both sides it kind of becomes a lner lock by definition.
 
Take a look at the BM 425 or 426. These are technically liner locks, but they are titanium and very thick.
 
What SOLEIL is talking about ARE linerlocks, but with liners as thick as framelock frames.
 
So when does a lock become thin enough that it is not considered as part of the frame? To me a liner lock gained support from the scales and could not be used effectively/safely without them in the long run.
Conversely a frame lock would perform just fine without any scales as they did not provide support but were more aesthetic in nature. I have very few liner locks that I would try to use without scales. Does a frame lock become a liner lock by virtue of the scales? I guess it is up to personal preference to classify by definition or function. Either way, it's all good.:)
 
a liner lock has the titanium (usually) liners with the tab portion on the inside of scales that are attached with screws, glue, tape, etc.

a frame lock has the tab integrated into that side of the scale with no additional material covering the lock. thicker and sturdier than a linerlock, although i have never seen a linerlock fail.

the crk inlaid sebenzas leave the tab portion uncovered.
 
Having seen linerlocks that fail, I am only interested in framelocks. They are similar, however, most linerlocks have the liner under the left hand scale, operating to the right; framelocks in the right scale, operating leftwards. Either lock, when as thick as the blade, offers enough friction to stay put. Thin linerlocks can be defeated by hand pressure if the engagement ramp is steep, caused by the length of the swinging part being too short. I have had three. Framelocks avoid this by having dimensions and materials that work within the design envelope.
Worst case, a stainless linerlock that is less than one third blade width and less than one half handle length, i.e. cheap . Best case, a titanium framelock with equal thickness and as long as the design can suffer - something has to remain to hold the blade and handle together! - as in expensive.
Titanium is an important factor as it galls readily against cutlery steels and holds locked better. Stainless just works in smoother and absolutely requires proper design, production, and assembly, which some makers accomplish. Others don't even have a clue - or didn't care.
 
It is a definition thing. As said before, many of the 'framelocks' mentioned are actually linerlocks (like the striders). A framelock has no external scale on the lock side and the lock is clearly visible. This yields an arguably less pretty knife than a linerlock in return for a beefier lock. Most framelocks are Ti on the lock side whereas linerlocks are more varied in material.

Now to mess this up: Kit Carson makes what he calls a bolster lock.....

Greg
 
The Strider AR and GB are for all intents and pourposes scaled framelocks . You dont see too many 1/8 " liner locks .

Chris
 
One of the Pardues, can't remember which one, I think made this style of knife first, and it was a gentlemen's style knife. Benchmade had a really nice version of it at one time.
 
tirod3 said:
Having seen linerlocks that fail, I am only interested in framelocks. They are similar, however, most linerlocks have the liner under the left hand scale, operating to the right; framelocks in the right scale, operating leftwards. Either lock, when as thick as the blade, offers enough friction to stay put. Thin linerlocks can be defeated by hand pressure if the engagement ramp is steep, caused by the length of the swinging part being too short. I have had three. Framelocks avoid this by having dimensions and materials that work within the design envelope.
Worst case, a stainless linerlock that is less than one third blade width and less than one half handle length, i.e. cheap . Best case, a titanium framelock with equal thickness and as long as the design can suffer - something has to remain to hold the blade and handle together! - as in expensive.
Titanium is an important factor as it galls readily against cutlery steels and holds locked better. Stainless just works in smoother and absolutely requires proper design, production, and assembly, which some makers accomplish. Others don't even have a clue - or didn't care.
Click to expand...


whaa????

you have totally lost me
 
most linerlocks have the liner under the left hand scale, operating to the right; framelocks in the right scale, operating leftwards.
Click to expand...

Wondering what I'm missing, I took my Buck Strider linerlock and put it next to a Sebenza framelock. The structure and action of both is identical.
 
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