Frame Tang Quillion Dagger

Del Raso Knives

Del Raso Knives

Joined
Dec 24, 2005
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847
Another dagger just finished for the Australian Knifemakers Guild show in May.

7mm thick CPM154 blade. Hollow ground and 1500 grit hand rubbed satin finish. 416 furniture including the frame tang. AOL 15 1/2" X 11 1/2" blade.

Scales are natural giraffe bone. OK, but thought it would come up better. Comments welcome, hope you like it.














 
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elegant :thumbup:

Those are weird outlets and I've seen some odd ones in my travels
 
Absolutely GORGEOUS Peter!!! :eek: :cool: :thumbup:




So clean, elegant, graceful.... I love everything about it... simply stunning my friend!!! :thumbup: :cool: :thumbup:
 
Beautiful Dagger!
While I am not a fan of bone handle material I think it looks nice on this knife.
The white gives the dagger a classy, formal look in my opinion.
 
Thanks again for commenting guys. Don't have a lot of pics, these are the few others I took.



Handle assembly. I used 10mm lengths of 1/16" drill shanks for the pins anchoring the frame legs to the three piece ferrule. Didn't have a lot of room. The other dot in the ferrule is the head of one of two pins that hold the three pieces together so they can be shaped as one unit.

The frame is 1/4" thick 416 with a hole drilled through to accept the 3/16 diameter, 316 stainless finial. Once completely assembled and finished I grind the little slotted tag off the end of the finial and polish the dome that's left. The hole in the end of the blade is threaded and what the finial screws into. At this stage I took the guard off and profiled it on the bandsaw and then the grinder.







Once profiled I took the guard round to good mate Shawn McIntyre's to give it a bit of a smack to spread the ends and bend the arms down. Always gives Shawn a chuckle when he watches me belt hot metal. If your going to be laughed at it might as well be a master smith. I was careful not to upset the flats and slot in the guard.






Next is the jig I made to grind everything true again. The base has a micarta plug set in it which is a press fit with the slot in the guard. The plug and the bracing plate hold the guard like it's set in concrete.





This is the opposite side of the guard. I use a thick sharpie to mark the face of the timber and grind till I just start to take the ink off. I always double check with a vernier, but this method is very accurate and use it often on weird shaped pieces. Hope I've answered some questions or at least given you some ideas.



 
Thank you for the pics. I am just finishing up my first dagger today, and the pics help me see how to streamline the process.
 
Peter- That jig/fixture/gizmo for cleaning up the guard after the heat & beat is brilliant!

Over the years, I've done about 6 dagger guards that had a similar shape, and that has always been the biggest bi@*#! of the process for me. I'm not saying your jig would make it easy... but it sure is smarter than anything I've tried!

I think a knife like this, takes another maker to fully appreciate how amazing your build is.

Absolutely top shelf Peter!!! Thank you for sharing the photos!!! :cool: :thumbup: :cool:
 
Willie71, hope your build goes smooth.


Nick, considering the amount of free tuition you have provided for years now, I'm stoked to be able to share this technique with you.:)
 
Peter this is just beautiful. I have seen your work up close at a show and was blown away by the quality of your workmanship. I can imagine how nice this knife must be in hand.
 
Peter, mine is full of flaws, is only relatively symmetrical, but I learned a lot. I made it for a hunter friend who wants it as a last ditch effort in case of a bear attack when hunting. For that purpose, it will do its job. A safe queen she ain't! :o
 
Lovely, elegant dagger with beautiful detail, exterior and interior.

(Say "Howdy" to Shawn for me next time.)

John
 
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