Framelock Lockup Question

[Mr. Clean]

Question - maybe a general lockup question - But for you guys with a Trigger Maze, is the lockup "sticky"? My Sebenza, well and really all my other framelocks, when they lock up, the lock sticks in place. My Trigger Maze doesn't, there's a bit of wiggle to it. If I apply a bit of pressure it sticks, almost...It's almost as if the lock side isn't bent far enough or something as it tends to spring away from the lock face a bit if that makes sense.
My gut tells me it should go back again but I hate the thought of that.
Thoughts?

 

[Jimbo75]

I only have one frame lock, the Sage 2, and it does not stick at all, when it is locked open there is no wiggle, it is like a little fixed blade.

On the sticking, I hear that if you colour in the lock interface with a sharpie it can smooth things out.

It does sound like you need more lock bar spring on the trigger maze, might be worth sending it in, or bending the lock bar a little if you feel confident.

 

[Reeek]

A sticking lockbar on frame locks is typically caused by galling of the softer alloy against the blade tang. I don't like my frame locks to stick. I consider it annoying and it eventually breaks in (out) and the sticking will stop.

As far as your knife goes, I'd be more concerned about the lock up. Flex the blade sideways and up and down a little bit when the knife is open and locked and feel for any wiggle. A tiny bit of side to side play is acceptable but ideally you want the blade rock solid in all directions. If the lockbar moves a little bit when you flex the blade each direction that is another area of concern and could warrant returning.

The fact that the lockbar doesn't stick on yours is not an issue as long as the knife locks up safely. If it does you're fine. And the sharpie method supposedly works well as mentioned by Jimbo75 if you prefer for other knives not to stick.

 

[Mr. Clean]

I don't know if stick is the right word you know? There's play in it whereas there's no play in my other knives... Thanks for the ideas gents, much appreciated

 

[cutter17]

This is what I do with a knife whose liner does not move over far enough to insure consistent lockup; I bend it a little more.:thumbup: If you send it back I would almost bet that this is the normal fix for the situation. You just have to do this carefully and only a small amount of bend at a time until you get it where you want it to be. I normally do this to all my liner/frame lock knives to get a stiffer lock.

 

[misterjuiceman]

This is what I do with a knife whose liner does not move over far enough to insure consistent lockup; I bend it a little more.:thumbup: If you send it back I would almost bet that this is the normal fix for the situation. You just have to do this carefully and only a small amount of bend at a time until you get it where you want it to be. I normally do this to all my liner/frame lock knives to get a stiffer lock.

you should NEVER bend your own lockbar, eventually you'll just cause more trouble than anything. I would never ever buy a knife on the exchange that's had the lockbar bent by a user.

 

[nevermind35]

I know exactly what you mean OP. I bought a Burke Production Rockstar a while back that had the same problem. It is in fact that the lockbar was not bent enough at the factory and therefore when the lockbar engages the tang it is already at the end of its spring memory. A good consistent lockup will have another atleast 15% or more spring memory in it so that it has the force to keep the lockbar pushed to the opposite liner.

As Misterjuiceman says, bending a lockbar can be a very daunting task and in the past I have told many people the same thing that he just said. However, after consulting with a local custom folder maker and showing him the problem and talking with him about how I might correct it, I worked up the courage to go ahead and do it. The trick is to do just a little at a time. What I do is cut a Post It note into about 4 strips vertically and then measure out and mark half centimeter increments along the length of the post it. I then take the knife apart and slide the post it in between the cut on the lockbar and stick it to the outside of the frame so that it runs through the cut, which goes from pivot end to the butt of the knife. I then have a way to measure both how far over it bends to start with and how far I have to push it in order to make it have more spring memory. Its pretty amazing how far you have to push the lockbar in order for it to set and take the bend, however if you just do it a little by little it should be ok. What I do is push it to say the 5th mark on my post it and then release it. If the lockbar isn't further over than it was before then I'll then bend it to the 6th mark and so on.

I put about another 15-20% bend into the lockbar and since then the lockup has been just how I like it. No more wiggly lockbar, no more blade play and no stickiness.

I also must say that I would only do this to a knife that I know that I'm not going to sell. It works good for me and I trust it, but I think it would be dishonest to sell that knife without mentioning it.

Or if you don't want to try that yet, you could always send it in with a note of the exact problem and I'm sure DDR will hook ya right up. Either way good luck.

If you do decide to do it PM me if you have any other questions.

 

[Jason B.]

You don't color the lock face with sharpie but a #2 pencil, just don't do it a lot you only need to rub the pencil a few times. Not enough to actually color it.

 

[Cotherion]

I got quite a few framelocks where it came to me with inadequate bend. Meaning I took it apart and the minimum bend for me is as far as the thickness of the blade plus two washers. This is so it can travel till the opposite scale at the end of it's travel life. Inadequately bent framelocks are sometimes only 50% of the gap and I'll bend those myself. I personally bend it more slightly to make the lockup tight cause it's my preference.

 

[cziv]

I've bent lockbars and linerlocks to get an ideal lock-up. Just a bit at a time slap it together w/o screwing it together and check. Repeat...repeat...until it's just right. As far as stickiness, I've only had a Ti JYD 2 get crazy sticky on me but it finally went away.

 

[Tony8179]

You don't color the lock face with sharpie but a #2 pencil, just don't do it a lot you only need to rub the pencil a few times. Not enough to actually color it.

I find the Sharpie method works better than the #2 pencil method. I don't color the lock face though, but the tang of the blade instead where the contact is made with the lockbar.

 

[A.P.F.]

I find the Sharpie method works better than the #2 pencil method. I don't color the lock face though, but the tang of the blade instead where the contact is made with the lockbar.

You will find that the 'stickiness' with certain frame and liner locks is sometimes present due to the locking component being made from Titanium, which has a tendency to 'gall' when it comes into contact with a hardened steel face. The lock will eventually wear-in, but sometimes with the sacrifice of a thumb. The best solution I have found is the 'pencil trick' on the face of the tang.

 

[softrockrenegade]

I had a small seb that stuck really bad! Use the pencil trick and it will break in !

 

[Mr. Clean]

You got it - Instead of doing it myself though I think I'll just send it in.

Thanks all!

I know exactly what you mean OP. I bought a Burke Production Rockstar a while back that had the same problem. It is in fact that the lockbar was not bent enough at the factory and therefore when the lockbar engages the tang it is already at the end of its spring memory. A good consistent lockup will have another atleast 15% or more spring memory in it so that it has the force to keep the lockbar pushed to the opposite liner.

As Misterjuiceman says, bending a lockbar can be a very daunting task and in the past I have told many people the same thing that he just said. However, after consulting with a local custom folder maker and showing him the problem and talking with him about how I might correct it, I worked up the courage to go ahead and do it. The trick is to do just a little at a time. What I do is cut a Post It note into about 4 strips vertically and then measure out and mark half centimeter increments along the length of the post it. I then take the knife apart and slide the post it in between the cut on the lockbar and stick it to the outside of the frame so that it runs through the cut, which goes from pivot end to the butt of the knife. I then have a way to measure both how far over it bends to start with and how far I have to push it in order to make it have more spring memory. Its pretty amazing how far you have to push the lockbar in order for it to set and take the bend, however if you just do it a little by little it should be ok. What I do is push it to say the 5th mark on my post it and then release it. If the lockbar isn't further over than it was before then I'll then bend it to the 6th mark and so on.

I put about another 15-20% bend into the lockbar and since then the lockup has been just how I like it. No more wiggly lockbar, no more blade play and no stickiness.

I also must say that I would only do this to a knife that I know that I'm not going to sell. It works good for me and I trust it, but I think it would be dishonest to sell that knife without mentioning it.

Or if you don't want to try that yet, you could always send it in with a note of the exact problem and I'm sure DDR will hook ya right up. Either way good luck.

If you do decide to do it PM me if you have any other questions.