Framelock soar thumb syndrome & 2 hand Framelock opening issues - the Fix

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Sep 23, 2005
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So you got your new Medford Praetorian Ti or other similar heavy duty framelock folder but now after just a few minutes
of using it you've got a soar thumb from closing the blade with the framelock. And you've maybe loosened the pivot
screw but you still almost need two hands or maybe it feels like you need a pry bar to get the blade open.

I've found one solution - one fix - that will take care of both problems. But be warned it will likely void any warranty and
if you aren't careful you might damage your knife. I've never cared much about warranties because if I can't fix it then it's
probably to far gone to fix and likely wouldn't be covered by most warranties anyway. So if you are okay with risking
losing a warranty read on.

A couple Medford's I've picked up seemed to stiff opening and also the framelocks were making for a soar thumb just
trying to get them broke in. I've worked with titanium in the past making some knife and flashlight clips as well as making
some small neck knives and a karambit out of solid titanium. Not all framelocks are titanium but if that's what you have
this can help and would also work for a steel framelock. But you must be careful with titanium as it can be damaged if
you bend it too far.

So this is how to fix that sticky framelock and at the same time you'll probably find it greatly loosens the blade to make it
easy to flip open. On the Medford Praetorian Ti you will want to loosen the top clip screw just a little and remove the
bottom clip screw. Don't loosen the top one too much or a nut holding it on the inside of the frame will fall out and it's a
pain to get it back in the hole which is partly obscured by the glass breaker. Once it is loosend pivot it around 180
degrees so it's out of your way. Then carefully remove the tiny screw holding the framelock overplay washer. Open the
blade all the way.

Then the most critical part is bending out the framelock a little bit at a time. You may need fairly strong fingers to do this
especially on something like the Praetorian Ti. Or you may find something like a wood door wedge that could help pry it
out. Just don't use a screwdriver or anything that would scratch the handle or framelock. Bend it out a little until you feel
resistance. Then check to see how much difference you feel in releasing the blade from the framelock. Just keep going a
little further each time until it feels like it is easy enough to release to your liking. Once done you will find the blade pivots
much easier now. I had tried loosening the pivot screw a lot with no effect, tried a number of other things with no effect
either. It turns out on the Praetorians the frame lock puts so much pressure against the blade that it is what makes it also
difficult to open.

Once you have it fine tuned to your liking it may be best to use some blue threadlocker on the tiny screw that holds the
framelock overplay washer. Then tighten that down and put your clip back in place and it's like having a new smooth as
butter framelock knife. If done properly it will still lock up solid although if you have a concern with any particular knife
cutting operation that it might fold on you just push in on the outside of the framelock and you may feel it move a tiny bit
for reassurance it's not going to fold on you.

While I have not needed to do this I believe if you went to far in bending the framelock out you could bend it back in
although you might need to remove the framelock handle to do so. Use patience in this fine tuning job and you'll likely
have a much smoother setup.

 
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now after just a few minutes
of using it
Out of curiosity, why not just wait for it to break in? I've yet to encounter a frame lock, Medfords included, that wasn't noticeably smoother and easier to unlock after a couple of weeks of plain ol' carry and use.
 
I guess one reason would be I don't want a soar thumb for a few weeks and it's good to have it smooth and easy now. The other two Medfords I have weren't real stiff but the Praetorian Ti was extremely stiff opening and just 5 or 10 times closing the framelock was enough to start making for a soar thumb. As much as I've still got strong hands from doing construction and some similar things at my age I preferred to get it smoothed out a lot faster. Just personal choice and maybe not for everyone but I'm guessing there are some people around who would have a harder time with framelocks so they might benefit from this info. I'd also mention this Ti was made about 8 months ago and from what I can tell was likely owned by 2 other people and was still not broke in. I can't say if it was not ever handled or used or if it was possibly just extra stiff and may have been why it was sold twice (or more?) so I wasn't going to wait to see if it would break in. I have limited experience with Medfords so I wasn't sure but I do own a lot of other framelocks and none of them was anywhere near as tight as this one so I was motivated to see if I could find a fix.
 
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I did know from the sellers video clip that the Ti looked very tight and I was fine with that as I did a similar fix on one of the other Medfords which was a little to tight for my liking. I've got another big framelock folder that has ceramic bearings and it will practically open itself once pushed past the indent and for me that is sweetness.

One other note for anyone who may venture to do this. I didn't have a hex wrench that would fit any of the screws but I found a T10 Torx fits tight for the clip screws and I believe I used a T7 Torx for the tiny screw holding the overplay washer. There are a lot of inexpensive cellular / computer screw driver sets on places like eBay or Harbor Freight if you don't have some tools to fit these sizes.
 
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I use a slight wrist flick when I open my knives. Works every time.
 
I've done this to several knives with good effect. One was an A. Purvis Progeny 3 that was so stiff the thumb studs were virtually unusable. Another was a Varga VBR 2 ... which was too stiff, but to a lesser extent. Both are a pleasure to use now that I've relieved some of the lock bar tension. It's easier to do this once you've completely removed the lock-side scale.
 
I use a slight wrist flick when I open my knives. Works every time.
Before I did my little operation on the Praetorian Ti (only took about 10 or 15 minutes) I will bet no amount of wrist flicking would have opened this one. Now it takes very little wrist flick and will even open when slightly past vertical by itself once you've pushed just past the detent that holds in in place when closed. I just tested this and it doesn't quite drop open by itself - actually does take a little shake to get it to drop open. Just right for my preferences.
 
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