free hand question

[TheGrailKnife]

Hey guys when you are free handing using the burr method. Do you have to have the same amount of strokes on each side of the blade?

 

[Silvanus]

Not sure what he burr method is, but I freehand sharpen with the stone moving away from the blade. I don't usually count the strokes per side when Im buffing the edge. When I'm reprofiling it becomes more critical and I try to maintain the same strokes per side.

 

[n7titan]

When I'm done profiling and moving on to refining the edge (taking off the burr) I use more strokes on the side the burr is leaning. I do that until the burr seems to bend over with fewer and fewer passes. Then I go really lightly one at a time on each side. Then I strop alternating each stroke again.

 

[Krissig12]

Your telling me I dont have to pay for this "hand question"??? Its totally free????

 

[G. Scott H.]

Your telling me I dont have to pay for this "hand question"??? Its totally free????

100% free of charge. Questions about all other appendages cost $5 apiece.

TGK, I don't count the number of strokes per side, I just work on one side till a burr is achieved then flip over and repeat. :thumbup:

 

[W.M.B.]

100% free of charge. Questions about all other appendages cost $5 apiece.

TGK, I don't count the number of strokes per side, I just work on one side till a burr is achieved then flip over and repeat. :thumbup:

Same for me.

 

[bgentry]

There's no need to do the same amount of strokes on each side. What you're trying to do is balance two things:

1. Keeping the edge bevels symmetrical. This is actually composed of at least 3 parts, but I don't want to over complicate things just yet.
2. Forming a full length burr on one side of the blade and then the other.

If your edge bevels are identical, then doing the same number of strokes on each side is a good idea, but you still have to form, detect, and remove the burr from each side. Most bevels are not identical and will require more work on one side than the other. Most bevels will also require more work on *part* of the bevel than the rest.

Balancing #1 and #2 above for me, means looking at my edge bevels from time to time and switching sides when they are getting close to the same. Then alternating "rounds" of grinding on one side, then the other, until I form a burr on one side. You can just grind away at one side if you want, but you'll probably end up making your bevels asymmetrical if you do: One side will be wider than the other.

Brian.

 

[HeavyHanded]

Hey guys when you are free handing using the burr method. Do you have to have the same amount of strokes on each side of the blade?

You have to switch from counting or working by rote, to working from observation. Counting strokes implies that you have exact mechanics and angle control from side to side and that the existing edge is uniform. Just work and observe, grind where needed, raise burr and remove as needed. Strong, single source, overhead lighting is extremely helpful. A loupe helps as well, but with strong light you'll be fine.

 

[Jason B.]

There's no need to do the same amount of strokes on each side. What you're trying to do is balance two things:

1. Keeping the edge bevels symmetrical. This is actually composed of at least 3 parts, but I don't want to over complicate things just yet.
2. Forming a full length burr on one side of the blade and then the other.

If your edge bevels are identical, then doing the same number of strokes on each side is a good idea, but you still have to form, detect, and remove the burr from each side. Most bevels are not identical and will require more work on one side than the other. Most bevels will also require more work on *part* of the bevel than the rest.

Balancing #1 and #2 above for me, means looking at my edge bevels from time to time and switching sides when they are getting close to the same. Then alternating "rounds" of grinding on one side, then the other, until I form a burr on one side. You can just grind away at one side if you want, but you'll probably end up making your bevels asymmetrical if you do: One side will be wider than the other.

Brian.

Solid advice!

Counting strokes would only work if you had a perfect starting point. With knives this is a 1 in a million occurrence.

Sharpening is a constant inspection of your work. You grind a little then you inspect, if you find yourself doing more than 5-10 strokes per side without inspection then that's your first mistake. When you inspect the edge you are also inspection the whole blade to make sure your edge bevel is equal per side and how it lines up with swedge grinds, you must also make sure the bevel itself is centered with the blade thickness. Meaning, the edge apex is in the centerline of the blade.

Be aware of bad blade grinds too, it's very common on production knives for the swedge to be mis-ground or the blade itself to be a bit asymmetric in its primary grind which can cause edge bevels to be different from side to side. A dip in the steel from grinding it's shape can also cause irregular edge bevel widths.

There is a lot to look for and a lot that can throw you off so remember, inspect you edge often.