Free hand sharpening carbon slippies?

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Oct 2, 2006
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I didn't post this in a modern sharpening forum because I am not looking for non traditional ways to sharpen. Maybe the mods might think this doesn't belong here but I have heard a lot of old time wisdom since hanging out here. I posted this here because I am curious how you guys sharpen your old carbon slippies freehand. I am most interested in which various grade stones and strops you use. Those of you that do it freehand please tell me all the stones, strops, etc. you would use to get it from super dull flea market find to as sharp as you can. Thanks

Jerry
 
I didn't post this in a modern sharpening forum because I am not looking for non traditional ways to sharpen. Maybe the mods might think this doesn't belong here but I have heard a lot of old time wisdom since hanging out here. I posted this here because I am curious how you guys sharpen your old carbon slippies freehand. I am most interested in which various grade stones and strops you use. Those of you that do it freehand please tell me all the stones, strops, etc. you would use to get it from super dull flea market find to as sharp as you can. Thanks

Jerry

I use DMT diamond stones most of the time when I freehand sharpen. extra coarse if it really needs a lot of work...then coarse..then fine. After that I strop with 1 micron diamond spray on leather...then .5 micron green compound on leather...then plain leather.
 
Well, Jerry, after all those qualifiers, how could we move it? :p

If I'm going strictly freehand, I'll either use a Norton Crystolon (Silicon Carbide) or an XC diamond bench stone for starters. (Sharpen until I get to the edge...usually resulting in a burr.)

Work up the grits: Fine India (Aluminum Oxide) or higher grit (Coarse/Fine) diamond.

Continue moving up the grits to fine/extra fine diamond hones.

Once I've gotten the edge thinned down to where I'm satisfied I like to finish up on ceramic stones.

If I strop, I use leather (or even cardboard) charged with green chromium oxide.
 
It depends on where I am. If I'm out and about, I'll probably use a DMT Diafold sharpeners, or pieces of ceramic stones from a Sharpmaker. If I'm at home, I'll use strips of wet/dry sandpaper on top of a Norton combination stone. I mostly use 400, 600, and 1500 grit, but I'll use 180, 220, and 320, when I need to reprofile something quickly. I'll usually strop on a piece of scrap leather loaded with green compound, then finish up on a plain leather scrap.
 
For most of my life I've used the method my old scout master showed us. Which is to say, the method that was used back in those days. My dad did it the same way.

Take you knife, and with the stone on a table, (or in your left hand it you can hold it steady) put the edge down on the stone at 90 degrees, like you're going to cut the stone in half. Then lay it over halfway. This should put you about 45 degrees. Now lay it over half that distance and that will put you in the nieghborhood of 21 to 25 degrees. A good working edge.

Now starting all the way back at the kick, start honing the blade in a small circularway, very slowly working your way to the blade point. Take at least one minute to reach the tip. Now look at the new bright bevel. If it's about what the factory bevel was, your about right on the angle. Don't obsess over the angle. A couple degrees one way or the other will not make any difference in cutting that rope, bag, UPS box top, or whatever. If it helps you, get a dry erase marker and color the bevels to keep track of the work.

Now lay the blade over on the other side and do the small circle honing. Half of a half will get you there, angle wise. Again, take it slow from kick to tip.

I usually use my little Eze-lap model L I carry in my wallet. I cut off most of the plastic handle so it fits in the zipper part of my wallet. I've used this home for about 15 to 20 years now. I have a spare on hand, b ut I haven't worn out the first one yet. I've got my 4.95 out of it!

Sometimes, just for yuks, I'll use my old boy scout stone. It's an old grey carborundum, about an inch wide by a couple inches long, in a small leather pocket sheath. I found it down in a box in the basement on a shelf. The leather was a little green and mouldy, but cleaned up with saddle soap. The stone is old and dished in some, but still sharpens a knife up real good.

That's pretty much all I use. The Eze-lap model L and the old boy scout stone. I have some Difold hones around, larger hones about 5 inches or so, but I never use them unless I have some one elses knife that is in real bad shape.

There's no rocket science to sharpening a knife, it's easy. Some people take it to an extreme, but thats not really needed to get a sharp knife. The only other thing I will do, is when I finish, I'll take off my Dickies leather work belt, and give it a stropping for a little bit, to just kind of finish it up.

Now if there's a coffee mug around, you can use the bottom unglazed ring of ceramic on the bottom of the mug. That works pretty good too.
 
I have 2 stones. A cheap Home Depot SiC double sided that I use when I need to reset a bevel. From there I have one other stone which is a $25 1000/6000 King Japanese water stone. I go until I get a burr on the 1000 then move to 6000 until I am happy its sharp. Then I put it on a leather belt that has green compound on one side and plain leather on the other. Gives me a mirror edge that lasts long, cuts clean, and is so sharp I cut myself without knowing or it hurting. Works for me.
 
If I'm feeling really traditional I will do rough work with a large washita, and finish work with a hard Arkansas (using Buck honing oil). Then I use a strop with green compound.

If I'm feeling lazy and want it to go faster, I will use fine and XF DMT before stropping.
 
Hi,

I use a medium Arkansas most of the time. Sometimes I use the circular motion like Carl. Sometimes the straight slicing motion. No real reason for that I guess. I then often strop on my blue jean pant leg.

I do have a cheap Alox coarse stone for heavy stock removal work. And a small piece of fine ceramic rod that I rarely use.

Though I think I should really get myself a diamond lap and a decent extra fine ceramic.

Dale
 
Now I use a DMT Aligner jig, from E course to E fine
It works very well even for a hard steel like D2

For years, all I used was a Buck honing set, which is a softer Wichita and a smaller harder Akansas with honing oil included
Works wonders for carbon steel
 
I have 2 combistones from fallkniven diamond and sceramic, a DMT in creditcardsize, some cheramic dogbones, two cheramic stones - gray and white from spyderco, A Dans white from Arkansas, A course cheramic from mora of sweden, A orange diamond from lansky, Some carbide and sandstones that are course, 2 grindingwheels and a lot of wetsandpaper and a mousepad. And a letherbelt and some course klouth. Also cardboard cups and the stikerarea of matchboxes gets used. I use them after mood and how dull the knife is. Jackknifes post extremly good deskribes how I use them but I hold a little flatter angle and half of half most times.

Bosse
 
if it's a new knife that comes fairly dull [as many do] i start with the 10 in. dmt blue diamond, then red 10in. diamond, usually i then skip to the 11 in. x-tra fine diamond.if the knife is going to be used for fish or meat i stop at that stage. if it's going to work with me i progress to spydie fine then white x-x- fine then the diamond paste strop. touch-ups are usually on untreated leather strop or the diamond strop.if i want a slightly more aggressive edge i hit it on the fine white spydie. in my experience the more polished the edge the more enduring it is . however working on some materials requires more bite & the dmt green diamond will certainly give as much bite as one can possibly require.dennis
 
For most edges, I start with a Med. Arkansas stone, then a fine Arkansas stone. To finish the edge I usually use my kitchen sharpening steel...also use this for touch-ups....Tony
 
I use whatever is available... At home, I have a Lansky-type kit that I don't use properly... just use the stones as bench stones, without the bracket gizmo. At work, I sometimes use sandpaper. Sometimes just a tiny pocket-size carborundum stone, followed by some cardboard stropping.
 
All you really need is a coarse and fine. Moving through a bunch of different grits doesn't really make it easier, it just adds more steps and as a beginer free handing that makes for more chances to screwup the edge. Get something very coarse, diamonds are a great choice here. 1 Slice, or scrub back and forth, or circles on one side only, until you get a burr. Then do one or two slices at 90 degrees to remove the burr then repete step 1 on the other side. At this point you have a good burr along the edge and have ground down both sides. Don't use 90 degrees this time to remove the burr. Do a few alternating strokes at the ruffly same angle you did your grinding at to remove the burr. Now to finish get a fine or very fine hone, I like Spyderco ceramics. Polish out the coarse scratch by alternating slicing strokes until you have the sharpness you want. it really is just that easy. For the angle you sharpen at really just let your hand set it. Don't worry about the angle at all. After you have gotten a few edges sharp and are comfortable getting a sharp edge then is the time to start playing with different grits and different angles. :) This method will work for stainless steels too.
 
I have a norton whetstone in my toolbox that I use. The remnance of a box that it sits on says it's crystolon. I use jackknifes technique pretty much. I never seem to get a razor edge, so the whetstone's courseness gives the blade a slight "serrated" edge.Sometimes I'll finish it off with a hard Arkansas stone. I have tried ceramic and other stones without success. Diamond I'm not crazy for as I think it removes too much material.
 
I use 2 dmt diafolds.... Coarse/fine than fine/ultrafine.....I usualy start on fine for touch ups and maintenance..If the edge is dinged I;ll go coarse..
I lay mblade flat on the stone at the kickthan drag it lightly across the stone away from the edge graduall opening the angle untill I hear the edge make contact with he stone..
This generalyl will mactch the previous angle.Than I use that same stropping motion on the stone once the angle is established..I give 10 passes per side and than 10 passes per side alternating..I than finisih on a homemade strop (leather glued to a a paint stirrer) WIth some green compound on it... I give 50 passes per side than 50 alternating ..and I put it to bed....
 
Hi,

I think it's kind of interesting how little equipment it actually takes to maintain a slippie. As compared to what it takes for more modern knives with fancier steels.

One can still use the fanciest equipment that you might want to pay for, or you can be as uncomplicated as you wish.

Dale
 
Hi,

I think it's kind of interesting how little equipment it actually takes to maintain a slippie. As compared to what it takes for more modern knives with fancier steels.

One can still use the fanciest equipment that you might want to pay for, or you can be as uncomplicated as you wish.

Dale

I agree with this.

Jackknife-My Scoutmaster taught me the same way, it is good to know someone else uses the circle method. I prefer a Norton India stone followed by gray Spyderco and White Spyderco ceramics for just about everything that is really dull (read new to me or other peoples knives). Usually I can get by with just the Sharpmaker. I am just now beginning to experiment with stropping and was trying to talk myself out of spending the money on the full range of diamond bench stones. I have talked myself out of it. I still have the green stropping compound coming though.

Thanks all.
 
All you really need is a coarse and fine. Moving through a bunch of different grits doesn't really make it easier, it just adds more steps and as a beginer free handing that makes for more chances to screwup the edge.

I agree with this totally!

Carl.
 
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