Free-hand Sharpening: Setting the initial bevel

[P2P]

I find the most of my sharpest knives originally had a bevel started by a Lansky sharpener. The problem with this is, some blades don't sit well on the clamp.

My goal is to be able to completely reset the bevel angle by hand.

I am happy with the results I get with edges that only need fine stone work, its the INITIAL BEVEL that is my nightmare at the moment.

I would love to be directed to a thread that covers my issue, though if there is not one I hope to hear some great advise from you guys.

Thanks,
Dalton

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Hello Dalton.

It might spur some more input here, if you could post a pic of the blade you're wanting to sharpen (I'm assuming it's the one referred to in your previous thread?).

Also, regarding using the Lansky clamp, it may still be possible to find a way. I sort of cut my sharpening 'teeth' on a Lansky, and had to improvise a little bit, for some blade styles. So, I might be able to give a couple tips. Again, a pic of the blade would be helpful.

 

[richard j]

dalton, i sent you an email with a picture and a list of a few items to get to make a setup for hand sharpening. pm me when you get the items on the list and i'll help you get started.

 

[HeavyHanded]

My goal is to be able to completely reset the bevel angle by hand.

Thanks,
Dalton

Use the coarse side of a combination silicon carbide stone and a Sharpie on a cheap knife or two. You'll figure it out pretty quick if you already have a steady hand at the finer grit work.

 

[KennyB]

I still use stacked pennies on the end of the benchstone to keep an angle reference, so I'm not a purist when it comes to free-handing... $.03 cent angle guide isn't too extravagant though. Might help you out a lot, it did for me.

Also, for really fast stock removal, I find that you can set your wrist and rock back and forth on your hips and with your back to remove a lot of stock at a very rigid angle and keep a steadier hand--it's harder to control pressure like this though.