Freehand Sharpening Bias

theonew

theonew

Joined
May 16, 2006
Messages
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I'm a newbie who has been into knives and knife sharpening for just over a year now and I basically just use a combination Japanese waterstone (1000/6000) and a ceramic rod to sharpen my small collection of knives. I've been able to get some fantastic results and really enjoy it. What I've noticed though is that I have a tendency to sharpen one side of the bevel at a more acute angle, kind of like a car that drifts to one side. I'm aware of the problem and if I focus I can compensate for the bias but if I start to think about something else or some other aspect of the sharpening process or the knife I'm sharpening, next thing I know my bevels start getting uneven. Has anyone encountered this? If so do you have any tips on overcoming it once and for all?
 
DocNightfall said:
Focus on each stroke. Don't rush things.
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Using a 1000 grit waterstone to reprofile gets tedious and accounts for a lot of the mental meandering. I was just nervous at first about using anything more aggressive because it would quickly amplify my mistakes. I really should get a courser hone.
 
You could also place your thumb (or any other finger, depending on how you like to hold the knife) on the spine and use it as a "jig". You lay the edge of your finger on the stone as you begin the stroke, and that keeps the angle relatively constant.
 
DocNightfall said:
You could also place your thumb (or any other finger, depending on how you like to hold the knife) on the spine and use it as a "jig". You lay the edge of your finger on the stone as you begin the stroke, and that keeps the angle relatively constant.
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I've been very resistant to the idea of using "training wheels" (jigs) but your suggestion seems like a great compromise. Thanks.
 
If you do not presently, I would suggest using both hands, one guiding the blade, and the other keeping pressure constant on the blades entirety, with a back and forth motion.. Much like the Japanese sharpen on a waterstone.
 
samhain73 said:
If you do not presently, I would suggest using both hands, one guiding the blade, and the other keeping pressure constant on the blades entirety, with a back and forth motion.. Much like the Japanese sharpen on a waterstone.
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You mean both "pushing and pulling" the blade across the stone?
 
I use both hands when possible and lay a coin or coins at the end of the stone to check my angle. I start slow and after a 10 strokes or so I have the "feel" for it.
 
I've used Norton's waterstones with a Skarb sharpener. Except on long, strongly curved edges, bevel angle control worked very well ... precise and absolutely symmetrical.

I did make a styrene plastic sled for the stones. Without it, the Skarb's pivoting stroke quickly wore a curved furrow into the stones that was very hard to flatten. The sled allowed me to slide a stone in and out with one hand as I pivoted the blade with the other.

I have to say, though, that with waterstones, you're best off if you can develop freehand skills. The wear problem is always going to be there, and the more you can spread your strokes out over the stone's surface, the easier it will be to maintain flatness. Getting consistent results is like playing the piano ... it takes lots and lots of practice.

Lately I've gone to a belt sander, but that's a story for another thread.
 
If you hone the edge by pushing the edge bevel into/across the hone, the problem usually is that it's difficult to judge an equal angle when pushing the opposite edge bevel back toward you. My own tendency is hone a more acute edge bevel angle on the return stroke.

One way to train yourself is to use some sort of jig device (many use a short stack of coins) to support the spine of the blade at the start of the stroke, in either direction. You need only to maintain that starting angle during the honing strokes.

You'll soon learn the appropriate angle for the opposite bevel and can dispense with the tedium of using the jig.

Hope this helps!
 
The fact that you are learning to "freehand" is commendable all by it self. It's a skill that will last a lifetime and worth developing IMHO.

The biggest aid I found was to use an eye loop or any other magnification method you choose to inspect your bevels after every series (what ever your count per side is). This will keep you from getting very far into trouble and force you to stay focused...sometimes it really is difficult to keep the mind from wandering.

This will show quickly where you have to adjust your angle and then confirm whether you have corrected it on the next series. Eventually the eye-hand connection will be developed...it's like learning to ride a bike...and you will further enjoy your knife interests.
 
gud4u said:
If you hone the edge by pushing the edge bevel into/across the hone, the problem usually is that it's difficult to judge an equal angle when pushing the opposite edge bevel back toward you. My own tendency is hone a more acute edge bevel angle on the return stroke.

One way to train yourself is to use some sort of jig device (many use a short stack of coins) to support the spine of the blade at the start of the stroke, in either direction. You need only to maintain that starting angle during the honing strokes.

You'll soon learn the appropriate angle for the opposite bevel and can dispense with the tedium of using the jig.

Hope this helps!
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What you describe is exactly what I've encountered, a more acute angle on the return stroke. I've tried to compensate mentally but I guess I really need to train myself with a jig, so my eye and hand can memorize the look and feel. Thanks for the advice.
 
Stickman said:
The biggest aid I found was to use an eye loop or any other magnification method you choose to inspect your bevels after every series (what ever your count per side is). This will keep you from getting very far into trouble and force you to stay focused...sometimes it really is difficult to keep the mind from wandering.
Click to expand...

I like this idea, after the wandering becomes apparent to my naked eye, I've strayed so far off course, it takes so long to correct, as well as wastes a lot of good metal. What power magnification do you use?

Thanks.
 
I've noticed the same thing, usually it's only off a hair. When it gets too extreme I get out the old Buck angle guide and reset the bevel.
 
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