freehand sharpening only

B

bzzhewt

Joined
May 8, 2005
Messages
127
anyone interested in contributing their methods and knowledge regarding any kind of freehand sharpening?
Emphasis on small stones used on big knives, as that's where i'm trying to pick up useful info.
I am really interested in ANYTHING you have to say.
Thanx
 
It's a lot easier if you don't use a small stone. A stone that is at least six inches long makes the job much easier.

Always push the knife away from you, and try to slice a layer off of the stone (starting from the tip and moving toward the choil).

Circles are okay on a small stone, but for some reason I don't control the blade angle as well that way.
 
It's not always best to try and slice a layer off the stone. Some people end up putting a greater angle on the edge if you tell them that as they can feel the edge of the knife on the stone.
I sometimes hold my thumb on the stone and have the spine of the knife resting on that. a couple of light strokes and you get the feel for the angle better
 
I'm not sure what you mean by "freehand" but some of the ceramic sticks set at an angle make sharpening very easy. I have a couple of DMT 6" diamond stones that are excellent at putting an edge on a dull knife. You just have to be careful not to turn the knife into filet knife as the DMT really removes the metal quickly.
 
Thanks for the replies guys.
I am knowledgeable regarding freehand sharpening, specifically on a large benchstone. I know how to maintain angles, create and remove burrs, strop, etc. I've read Joe's sharpening FAQ, Wayne Goddard's methods, Randall's, Razor Edge systems, Emerson's Quick 'n Dirty methods, SPECOPS' Predominantly stropping idea, Japenese techniques, and others.
My favorite method is a combination of razor edge systems double bevel concept for convenience, ease, and clarity of instruction, with SPECOPS' idea of frequent stropping to maintain the edge.
I would still like to hear what people have to say about all sorts of freehand sharpening, but my limited area is in the big blade/ small stone category as would pertain in the field.
I unserstand that the same concepts apply, but with a small stone, it is way harder to maintain angle control, plus you've usually only got one grit to work with.
So I guess i will add to the question:
What do you use in the field to touch up your big blades, and do you have any cool tricks or techniques that help with speed, angle control, consistency, and so on?
Thanks alot guys, and keep em' coming.
 
No rocket science or magic to hand sharpening, just practice. What works for one guy may not work for the next one, either. Shoot, it took me years to finally get my system half-way perfected. :)

I use DMT pocket stones probably 90% of the time anymore on all my knives, with pretty good results. I also use a Gatco tri-hone for recurved areas.

I like the DMTs because I can carry them with me pretty much anywhere, so I always have one or two. I carry a red (fine) and a green (X-fine) with me, and keep a blue one handy in the tool box or at home in my knife drawer.

I don't worry too much about angle, in fact most of my users now have somewhat convexed edges. I just draw them across the stone until I get a burr, then flip it over and remove the burr. Then a few light passes on both sides to finish off the edge, and I work to keep the corners knocked off since I like convexed edges better. I strop them when I am near a strop to get a polished edge, but for most things the green DMT leaves a real nice edge that works great.
I use this on SAKs, slipjoints, my Benchmade Griptillian, Spydercos, a Becker 7, Ontario Spec-Plus's, Scandis, even Bark Rivers. Works pretty well on all of them, especially combined with a stropping. I do like a nice polished edge, but I have read that you can over strop and dull your edge, after all your hard work, and have managed to do just that several times... :o

I would like to make a pocket-sized DMT/leather strop combo one of these days, that would be just about perfect!
 
thanx
i too have had problems with my edge becoming blunt when i strop. I"ll just keep practicing at it and hope i get better at angle control!
 
Don't need to press very hard, that's one mistake I make alot. Also, I have part of my strop coated with stropping compound, and the rest clean. Seems to do a nice job. :)
 
bzzhewt said:
thanx
i too have had problems with my edge becoming blunt when i strop. I"ll just keep practicing at it and hope i get better at angle control!
Click to expand...
Resist the temptation to increase the angle at the end of the stroke.
Most depictions of stroping on tv seem to show this.
 
djolney said:
It's a lot easier if you don't use a small stone.
Click to expand...
Depends on the knife and the grind. A 14" parang with a convex grind is a lot easier to sharpen with a small 1x4 hone than a large 2x6" one.

-Cliff
 
G'day fellas. When I use a bench stone I find if I can lock my elbows and wrists and pivot from the hips it seems to make controling the angle easier. Also make sure the stone is dead flat, the slightest bow makes it near impossible to maintain a constant angle. Be aware of what the stone is resting on it should be solid or if you are using the small stone big knife style then the knife needs to be fixed as solidly as possible. Carl
 
Hard to beat a collapsible eZe-Lap for field dressing. Might not be pretty, but it's fast. Clean it up later, but it will put a FAST working edge on without much fuss.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top