Freehand sharpening process: how you handle curvy blades

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Nov 7, 2011
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It would be useful to hear some techniques that experienced freehand sharpeners use to work with blades that have challenging curves.

Most sharpening videos tend to focus on the straightforward sharpening cases like chef knives, or small folders, or straightforward field/utility fixed blades, that don't have much curve to them. But sharpening blades where the main body of the blade is curving in a continuous arc (like this ZT 0095), or where there's an unusual curve shape (like this Kukri), or where there's a very large belly area (like this Spyderco Lionspy), these can be challenging to figure out a freehand sharpening motion that enables you to create and maintain a consistent bevel angle.

On these kinds of curvy blades, it would help to hear how folks deal with 2 challenges:
  • The shaping/scrubbing stage. When you need to remove a lot of metal, say for an edge profile, what techniques do you use to keep it consistent throughout the curved areas?
  • The apexing stage. When you're actually sharpening with whatever slice or stroke method you use, how do you keep a consistent angle throughout those curves to get a nice clean finished edge? I assume here, a common answer will be to use a normal sharpening stroke, but work the blade in small overlapping sections. This is what I've been doing, but to this point, not 100% satisfied with the results.
 
I use a stone with a nice radiused (?) edge on the long side for doing recurves. A regular straight stone will do for ones with a large belly.

The hardest part is getting the contact area and angle of the blade to jibe when transitioning from the recurve to the belly. Otherwise, is all a matter of practice.

I like to recalibrate on the fly by occasionally lowering the spine so I can feel the shoulder transition "bump" on the stone for a light pass, then raise the spine and continue with lessened feedback.

Halfway down the page this is explained:
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HH, good effort on the write up & diagrams. I mostly got what you were saying. The rest I can fill in.
This doesn't work with diamond on a nickle plate. And it helps to slightly round/ radius one side. I do only one side on one stone.
Which is on my JUM-3 the coarse side and I use that to work those badly rounded edges. I think the user does or creates this condition
by using a steel wrong.
There are 2 problems w/ this condition: 1) you have to return the blade to a V grind like the other portion of it's edge. And try to remove some
shoulder and straighten the edge profile. I no longer try to educate them on this condition. As it will be waiting on me to correct the next time I
sharpen that knife. It's also done by not holding a inconsistent angle when sharpening. The natural progression is rounding of the edge bevel. This subject is certainly beyond Sharpening 101. DM
 
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