Freehand Sharpening S30V?

[afishhunter]

I've never had S30V before.
I do all my sharpening freehand.
When it needs sharpening, will SiC suffice, or will I require a diamond stone(s)?
What grit(s) do you recommend?
For stropping, what compound do you recommend?
Do I need to strop the edge to a "mirror finish"?

If it makes a difference, the knife is a Buck 110.

 

[Craig James]

When the abrasive size begins to approach the size of the vanadium carbides then anything apart from CBN/diamond will not cut the carbides and will instead burnish the steel matrix around the carbides. This will increase the likelihood of carbide tear out for normal cutting tasks, leaving you with a ragged not too sharp edge. Your SiC stones will be fine at low grit, but imo it is simpler and easier to just use diamonds. Many people here prefer that steel finished very coarse anyway.

 

[Glock Guy]

I've never had S30V before.
I do all my sharpening freehand.
When it needs sharpening, will SiC suffice, or will I require a diamond stone(s)?

S30V is only 4% Vanadium, so your SiC stones will be fine. A lot of people touch up the edge on a Spyderco Sharpmaker as a quick and easy way to get it sharp.

What grit(s) do you recommend?

If it's a working EDC, I tend to go no higher than 1,000 grit nowadays as I prefer a bit toothier edge vs. a refined edge. Some people are more than satisfied with even a 400-600 grit edge.

For stropping, what compound do you recommend?

1 micron diamond spray on a strop is a great, and consistent way to finish ANY steel. You can use the green or white compounds (Aluminum or chromium oxide) on this steel as well, but if you are just planning on using ONE strop, the 1 micron diamond on leather is hard to beat!

Do I need to strop the edge to a "mirror finish"?

No. A lower grit (toothier) edge will last much longer and do a better job of cutting most materials.

 

[ferider]

If it's a working EDC, I tend to go no higher than 1,000 grit nowadays as I prefer a bit toothier edge vs. a refined edge. Some people are more than satisfied with even a 400-600 grit edge.

This. My goto stone for 20CV, S30V, and S90V these days is a Spyderco medium (brown) ceramic stone. Equivalent grit is around 600 I think. Perfect for a working knife, for me.

 

[DeadboxHero]

Diamond/CBN for best results.

400-1000 grit range.
(Pick one)

Use sharpie to check your angles.
(Lack of consistency will kill the edge)

Sharpen to a very small burr each
side and remove burr with light touch alternating passes.

Finish the edge on a 1um diamond spray loaded leather strop.

That has been the best method I found over the years.

 

[bucketstove]

I've never had S30V before.
I do all my sharpening freehand.
When it needs sharpening, will SiC suffice, or will I require a diamond stone(s)?
What grit(s) do you recommend?
For stropping, what compound do you recommend?
Do I need to strop the edge to a "mirror finish"?

If it makes a difference, the knife is a Buck 110.

Hi,
What stones do you have?

 

[jpm2]

Norton jb8 for edge setting, reprofile, edge repair, etc.
~600 grit (fine) diamond plate to finish.
A few licks on bare denim (pants leg).
This is the bare minimum I recommend, but done properly will yield an excellent all around edge.
The diamond plate can be small like 1x4.
Always finish with diamond, moderate pressure tapering to feather light, never heavy.

Once you've mastered the above, you can advance from there if preferred.

 

[afishhunter]

Hi,
What stones do you have?

I think my "good" stone (note quotes) is a old "Medium"(?) Arkansas stone I inherited from my great-great granny, (she sharpened her own) when she passed back in 1963. (I "know" it is useless for a "super steel".)
I do have a inexpensive two sided diamond plate. However, I've probably worn it out pressing too hard while re-profiling a few blades to 10 DPS. I am 99.998% sure it needs replaced.
Last, and certainly least, I have a cheap 10 inch butcher's/chef's steel. (I doubt it would so much as scratch 1095, T10, or 440A, let alone S30V.) It looks o.k. hanging from under the "kitchen" cabinet over the sink in my camper, though.

 

[AntDog]

If you want to use what you have, sharpen it on the Arkansas stone. It’ll handle it. Strop on leather or denim.

 

[afishhunter]

If you want to use what you have, sharpen it on the Arkansas stone. It’ll handle it. Strop on leather or denim.

But isn't even a "hard"/"extra hard" black or translucent Arkansas stone softer than S30V?

 

[AntDog]

But isn't even a "hard"/"extra hard" black or translucent Arkansas stone softer than S30V?

Nah, I wouldn’t think so.

I know you’re not used to it, and maybe a little intimidated, but S30V is not hard to sharpen. It sharpens up nicely for me on even the bottom of a coffee cup. Give it a try and see what you think.

 

[afishhunter]

I do possess a ceramic coffee cup ... it's usually empty these days, (unfortunately) so using the bottom to touch up an edge won't make a big mess.

 

[Alberta Ed]

Diamond hones work on everything. I find steels like S30V/S35Vn/S110V/D2 like a toothy edge. I sharpen mine on a DMT Dia-Sharp Ultra Coarse (220) grit to get a burr, then finish with a few light strokes on a DMT ultra fine (1200 grit).

 

[Glock Guy]

I think my "good" stone (note quotes) is a old "Medium"(?) Arkansas stone I inherited from my great-great granny, (she sharpened her own) when she passed back in 1963. (I "know" it is useless for a "super steel".)
I do have a inexpensive two sided diamond plate. However, I've probably worn it out pressing too hard while re-profiling a few blades to 10 DPS. I am 99.998% sure it needs replaced. Last, and certainly least, I have a cheap 10 inch butcher's/chef's steel. (I doubt it would so much as scratch 1095, T10, or 440A, let alone S30V.) It looks o.k. hanging from under the "kitchen" cabinet over the sink in my camper, though.

I think a great, cost effective addition to your sharpening arsenal would be a 300/1200 grit diamond combo plate, as that 1 plate will work on ANY steel.

I use the Ultrasharp DC38 which is the 8" x 3" version, but they have smaller, cheaper ones as well. We're not allowed to post links to non-advertising sites and I can't message you, but if you google "Ultra Sharp DC38 Diamond Combination Stone" you'll be able to pull up a few sites that sell them.

The 300/1200 combo plate is nice since you can do your re-profiling on the 300 side and use the 1200 for the actual sharpening and touch-ups. I have used just that diamond combo plate and a leather strop with 1 micron spray to bring my mom's kitchen knives back from the dead!

 

[bucketstove]

I think my "good" stone (note quotes) is a old "Medium"(?) Arkansas stone I inherited from my great-great granny, (she sharpened her own) when she passed back in 1963. (I "know" it is useless for a "super steel".)
I do have a inexpensive two sided diamond plate. However, I've probably worn it out pressing too hard while re-profiling a few blades to 10 DPS. I am 99.998% sure it needs replaced.
Last, and certainly least, I have a cheap 10 inch butcher's/chef's steel. (I doubt it would so much as scratch 1095, T10, or 440A, let alone S30V.) It looks o.k. hanging from under the "kitchen" cabinet over the sink in my camper, though.

Hi,
Have you done the glass jar test with your two sided diamond plate?
If it scratches glass, it will scratch your knife

But isn't even a "hard"/"extra hard" black or translucent Arkansas stone softer than S30V?

Well
S30V has harder carbides
https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/07/15/carbide-types-in-knife-steels/
https://knifesteelnerds.com/2020/05/01/testing-the-edge-retention-of-48-knife-steels/
S30V CrVC10.5% MC4 % TCV14.5%

But its still only 14.5% carbides, 85.5% steel,
and a freshly conditioned arkansas will cut
Knife Sharpening : 64 HRC k390 + Soft Arkansas - CliffStamp , Thats a 15-18% vanadium carbide steel , sharpening procedure overcomes grindability issues

 

[Jason B.]

I've never had S30V before.
I do all my sharpening freehand.
When it needs sharpening, will SiC suffice, or will I require a diamond stone(s)?
What grit(s) do you recommend?
For stropping, what compound do you recommend?
Do I need to strop the edge to a "mirror finish"?

If it makes a difference, the knife is a Buck 110.

I dislike answering these questions but here we go.

The truth is the Vanadium carbides @ and above 4% will cause extreme troubles in sharpening if the correct abrasives are not used. Arkansas stones or most any natural stone will do little to nothing and the most likely outcome is the Natural stone will be heavily glazed and polished because the blade steel laughed at it the whole time you attempted to sharpen it. It's like taking a slingshot to a tank battle.

I have used and sharpened S30V for over a decade and have probably hand sharpened more S30V blades from more makers than anyone you will ever speak with. S30V is not created equal and some examples are much better than others. Your Buck for example, is a great example and performs better than most but... it is harder to sharpen. Even on diamond stones the buck will feel like a hard steel and you will need to maintain a steady hand with a light touch as it is also unforgiving in sharpening.

Diamond stones make it easier but not always faster, I prefer to call it using the right tool for the job. Diamond is not just a little harder, its a LOT harder than the carbides and this is why they work so much better than other stones. The diamond abrasive will cleanly cut through the steel and all the additional elements mixed in while leaving a cleaner and sharper edge, especially at coarser grits. Speaking of, high carbide steels are always best at coarser grits, it is the nature of the beast. I prefer the DMT Coarse and Fine because for two stones you get a little bit coarse and a little bit fine without being too much of either. I compliment these stones with a strop typically made of Balsa Wood and coated with a 1 micron diamond abrasive. Using either the Coarse or Fine stones and following with the strop can create a multitude of edge types and polish levels. I've said more than once I could use just the Coarse DMT and a strop and no one would ever complain. It doesn't always look as cool as a high polished edge but it will walk circles around one every time.

In short,
DMT plates
Diamond abrasive on strop
Coarse but polished is the goal
A consistent technique with a light touch
Patience...

 

[aue123]

i sharpen my bugout with the spyderco medium, fine and ultra fine.. it takes a slightly mirror finish... pretty easy steel to sharpen.. if you want a one and done stone get a DMT course and fine (i got the extra course per outdoors55 recommendation) .. a strop and call it good. in all the videos i’ve seen, the strop is the most important part, you should check out the outdoors55 “90 seconds to shaving sharp” video.

 

[soc_monki]

i sharpen my bugout with the spyderco medium, fine and ultra fine.. it takes a slightly mirror finish... pretty easy steel to sharpen.. if you want a one and done stone get a DMT course and fine (i got the extra course per outdoors55 recommendation) .. a strop and call it good. in all the videos i’ve seen, the strop is the most important part, you should check out the outdoors55 “90 seconds to shaving sharp” video.

Another outdoors55 fan! His videos helped me a ton.

My setup is a Sharpal diamond coarse/extra fine combo stone and spyderco medium and fine stones. I also have a diy strop but am still waiting on my diamond paste... Usps is taking their time and I'm afraid it may be lost in transit. I'll give it a bit more time...

I use the coarse diamond to reprofile if need be, the extra fine leaves a nice toothy edge. The spyderco stones are for slight refining and I don't use the strop yet. After the diamond paste gets here I may change up my system but we'll see.

Works for me.

 

[aue123]

Another outdoors55 fan! His videos helped me a ton.

My setup is a Sharpal diamond coarse/extra fine combo stone and spyderco medium and fine stones. I also have a diy strop but am still waiting on my diamond paste... Usps is taking their time and I'm afraid it may be lost in transit. I'll give it a bit more time...

I use the coarse diamond to reprofile if need be, the extra fine leaves a nice toothy edge. The spyderco stones are for slight refining and I don't use the strop yet. After the diamond paste gets here I may change up my system but we'll see.

Works for me.

i feel like outdoors55 is more relatable.. compared to micheal christy - his sharpening skills are in the realm of impossible.

 

[soc_monki]

i feel like outdoors55 is more relatable.. compared to micheal christy - his sharpening skills are in the realm of impossible.

What outdoors55 did for me was get me to let go of the thought that I had to do things in a certain way. The way he sharpens seems unusual, but you can't fault the results! So I started experimenting and found what works for me (and Michael Christy helped with this as well). I sharpen my knives while holding my stones in my hand. Reprofiling, touch ups... It allows me to move the stone as well and be able to get to the tip easier. I do have slightly convex edges as a result because I tend to go back and forth, but I also do just edge leading for final strokes and it works for me. Hair popping, cleanly slicing paper towels... I'm happy with my technique and sharpness levels!