Freehand Sharpening

Tyrkon Lawson

Tyrkon Lawson

Joined
Oct 31, 2003
Messages
8,583
Obviously there are many here who use sharpeners such as the Edge Pro or EZE.... but how many of you are freehand sharpening wizards? I will be the first to admit that I am not. I do a pretty good job using sandpaper and leather/mouse pad but do not achieve nowhere near the results I get on the Edge Pro. So if you are really good at this please let us know what methods and/or hardware you use. Pics would be great.

Note: This is not a "how to" request as there are tons on the internet. But more of a "show us what you do".
 
Here's the advice I got once that I've never taken:

Go to your local gun show. Buy about 10 of those "$5 ea" beater knives that some guy is selling. Sharpen em by hand. Dull them on some sandpaper and sharpen em again.

I'm about 5 inches away from getting an Edge Pro. And I'm fairly good at free-hand. (I cheat - I've made 2 wedges to check my angles. One at 15 and one at 20. I can do either or make a compound bevel with both of those. Just a simple piece of cardboard cut with a sharp sharp razor.)
 
I've been free-hand sharpening my knives almost all my knife-totin' life, which is well over 30 years. I don't so much any more since I got my EdgePro, but some knives still get the old approach.

I've used ceramic "crock" sticks some, and they work pretty good, but they've got drawbacks I don't like, too. I went through the Sharpmaker stage, always looking for something better, but that just didn't do it for me.

Now I either use my EdgePro, a cheap kitchen sharpening steel, a single (large) ceramic stick to free-hand on, flat diamond-steel, or just use whetstones. I've got piles of whetstones, probably lost more than I have. I like large whetstones in different grits. I like grits, too, but that's a different story. :D

I grew up watching my grandfather sharpen his knives on a whetstone, and just sort of picked it up. Angles have never seemed to be a problem - it's always been natural. I probably can't put into words very well, but the best way to keep your edge angle consistent along the whole edge is to drop the handle of the knife as you're pushing it forward, then raise it a little as you pull the other side toward you.

It's easier than some think, and it takes a little practice, but it's worth it to know all you need to sharpen a knife is a flat(ish) stone. I think it also really helps you understand the whole sharpening process if you can free-hand, whether you're using a machine, crock sticks, or whatever.
 
I've found that using a stone that cuts fast really helps. I sharpened a well used GW today using a Norton Waterstone and it worked like a charm.

I agree with practicing before you sharpen a good knife. Especially if using a belt grinder...
 
I have always sharpened freehand...
but for some reason I can't seem to get INFI as razor sharp as every other knife I've sharpened.


.
 
I have a Lansky but never use it... maybe because I've never felt like carrying the thing around in my duffel bag (I've pretty much been living out of one for the past 14 years). I used a whetstone for years (learned from my father and grandfather). When I am out working in the field I carry a DMT fine/course two sided diafold, and sometimes a round pen-style Gerber pocket diamond sharpener, these get me through most of my sharpening. I also carry a file for sharpening my axe. There's not too much that these three won't handle. If any of them get really bad I'll fix them up on the bench grinder when I can.

I usually lay the stone flat, then rotate the blade until I get the right angle, quite often I will use my hand-lens while doing this(with a light behind it), then I use my thumb as a guide to try to keep it at this angle. I have had pretty good luck with this method, I also sharpen the knives I am using regularly (once a week) so they never get really bad. I've never really had need for a big chopper that wasn't a machete so most of my stone sharpening has been on smaller blades (less than 6"), and for the machete I use a file.

My Grandfather also used a strop after the stone, something I never really tried, but after reading some posts recently I think I will be picking up some leather and honing compound from Lee Valley. I've never tried sand-paper either which seems to be quite popular around the BF.
 
I still use sandpaper, files, rods, steels and now I use DMTs new DiaSharp line-up. I freehend most everything, knives, chisels, plane blades, axes and some of my saws.
 
I use the DMT's as well.:thumbup: I use the Diafolds/Duofolds and sharpen with the blade edge up braced on my knee. I just lightly and carefully draw the sharpener down the edge to the tip following the existing edge bevel. I have only done this to my muddy mojo and AK and they are both extremely sharp. I've still got a bit of refining left on the AK but it shaves without the edge being thin or weak. I also do the sandpaper on leather on granite for my BM and M6, and then strop a few times to polish the edge up like a mirror. Those are sharp as hell, too, but nothing like the v-edge. I would like to try an edge pro once, but don't see myself packing that thing along the trail. I practiced using a CS master hunter I had dulled badly using crystolon bench stones. Those things are better left to the masters.
 
I spent my childhood free-handing, but I haven't done it in years.

It's just way too easy to throw a clamp on the blade, or throw it on the Edge Pro.
The mechanical sharpeners will NEVER give you an edge sharp as someone who really knows how to sharpen by hand, but they can consistently give you a razor edge after just a little practice, and therein lies the reason why I don't hand sharpen any more.

For those who want a good "sharpening assistant," but don't want to deal with the size of a Lansky or Edge Pro, I HIGHLY recommend the Razor Edge system:

http://www.razoredgesystems.com/

It is just a little clamp that attaches to your blade, and you run the blade and clamp across the stone. You will only need your stones, the clamp, and 2 allen wrenches. Oh, and your knife.
 
I use this on my Busse and Swamp Rat knives.

Lee Valley Has everyhitng use.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=33004&cat=1,43072

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32984&cat=1,43072

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=20176&cat=1,42500

For around $20 you can have a honing set .I use the 300,400 and 600 grits (last link)
then the 15µ Silicon Carbide, Plain then the 5µ Silicon Carbide, Plain then the 0.5µ Chromium Oxide, Plain paper then strop on an old leather belt using the green honing compound. The chromium papers are well into the 1000's in grit and work very fast!

and depending on how dull your knife is you can start on any grit.

Take the green compound just rubs into a old leather belt. Just apply some pressure and rub it around. Then take a grit of sandpaper and match it to a mouse pad. ( sometime is use an extra piece of cardboard instead of a mouse pad I find it has less give.)

Then take a sharpe and draw on edge. Take the mousepad and sandpaper lay the ege of your blade on top of it and press it down and stroke away from the edge. After you draw the blade away from the edge, check the sharpe line, if you are on the correct angle the line should be wearing away or gone.

For stropping Do the same thing on the belt you made with the green compound. You can take one end of the belt ( the one with the buckle) and tie to something firm if you want. It may make the stropping easier. Pull the other end of the belt firm and try and make the belt at a 45 degree angle. Take your blade and do the same thing you did with the sandpaper. Draw away from the edge. At the end of a stroke STOP and lift the blade right up. As for the angle I usually put the blade pretty flat down and only use the pressure of the knife alone. Check to see where the green compound is in your edge. You can usually tell if you are hitting the right angle.

Well that is it. I hope it makes sense, I got this from what I have read on bladeforums
 
Mckrob, I think you covered the subject well, and the basic tools you mentioned here reflect my tastes in such things, too. I learned long ago that a file is what one uses for axes and machetes, and, though I used the traditional carborundum whetstones for many years, I've come to appreciate the DMT diamond hones I own, including the 2" x 6" red bench stone I keep nearby and a couple of smaller DMTs, as well, including one that is double sided and folds into its own handle. My hat's off to you for being able to live out of a duffle bag for these many years. That must be an indication of being able to travel light and still plan well for real world contingencies. I think that freehand sharpening is sort of like knowing how to use traditional pocket knives and being able to drive a stick shift vehicle, it's just something some of us old timers learned long before many of you reading this were a mere gleam in your daddy's eye. If that makes me a "dinosaur" or "old school," then I'll wear the badge proudly.
 
This is great stuff guys. The main reason I want to get crazy good at free hand is for those times when I do not have the Edge Pro. I can steel, strop, etc... but the stones... that would be cool.
 
Started with a Sharpmaker, moved on to an EdgePro, then a belt-sander, and finally moved to free-handing. With recurved blades, I use one or more of the aforementioned systems. Otherwise, it's diamonds, waterstones, and lapping film over glass.

Here are my trusty DMT D8XX and stone holder:
sharp02.jpg


Here's my left hand setting the angle on a soon-to-be-honed SRKW M6:
sharp03.jpg


Here's my right hand (well, the index and middle finger) applying downwards pressure to the edge for that particular angle:
sharp04.jpg


Here's the rough and burred edge left from merely shaping the edge:
sharp06.jpg


Here's the M6, stone-pond, stone-holder, and Norton's 1K/8K combination grit waterstone:
sharp09.jpg
 
I often use my sharpmaker ceramics as whetstones because not all blades match the angles. My Busses need other angles. I find the angle of the edge by feeling when it is flat against the stone. That takes some practice. Then I mark my edge with a sharpie to check my angle. If it is good I sharpen one side till I raise a burr. Then I make a few passes on the other side to start to get rid of the burr. I continue removing the burr with a leather strop and I usually get a hair splitting edge. Though it is pretty easy to split hairs. Cutting a free hanging hair with a slow swipe is my measure of a sharp knife and that is often a tall order for any blade. I have only a few that are as sharp as I really like
 
After all of that, a spooky-sharp, shiny edge appears:
sharp11.jpg


It can further be refined with 3M polishing cloth or 3M lapping film. Frankly, the polishing cloth costs less and seems to cut faster (though it has to be used dry and is more fragile than lapping film).

Here's a muddy FBM after getting polishing cloth loving:

mudbud11.jpg


I find it's easier to strop over float glass or a similar hard and flat surface than to use a mousepad or leather strop. Leverage from one's arms and from natural human errors assure light convexing, so that's good enough for me.
 
When I first get a knife, if the edge is too thick I thin it out a bit with a coarse water stone then move up to the medium side. After I have it almost where I want it I go to 1200 grit carbide paper to polish/clean it up. If I want it extra sharp I strop on my strop loaded with aluminum oxide and WD-40.

If I ever mess up the edge bad enough to where I can't steel it straight I use a file. When bringing the edge back after heavy use or just if it's been a while since I've touched it up I straighten real quick on ceramics then hit the 1200 grit for a couple passes. Keeps the edge real nice. For larger knives I use my rubber workout matting as a backing...for smaller knives I use the mousepad.

I'm still working with the belt sander but I prefer to use that on my machete's. I don't want to take off any metal when it comes to my Busse's. I want them to last as long as possible :p
 
I have always sharpened free hand. I keep a couple of stones for edge damage repair, but mostly I use a Lansky Rat Tail. I keep a DMT in my PSK. I also strop with a leather belt. I don't have polished edges, but I can maintain all my blades in the field in the same manner as at home.
I also tend to use a stropping motion to sharpen if the edge is not too out of whack. It keeps a pretty good edge with minimal steel loss.
 
I have freehanded as long as I can remember. Carborundum stones have done everything I needed for a long time. I picked up 250/600 grit 8" bench stone at Blade and have reprofiled my AS, HD and a Rat Tail. I got a chunk of green abrasive powder and loaded a spot on the strop last night and the AS and HD are now dangerous. I still keep the ceramic rods in a stand on my dresser for occasional touchups but for real sharpening I still go back to freehand. I am going to checkout the Edge Pro guide since it seems so simple.
 
Practice, Practice, Practice! All you need now is to get some stones and get at it. Alot of good advise has been given here. Or you could become a meatcutter for 7 years...I'm kidding, how I learned but I would never recommend that job to anyone. I still miss the cutting though, even after 20 years.
 
Know two things in life: 1) Real Machos eat spaghetti. 2) Real machos free-hand sharpen.

I like to free hand that's why I don't like recurve blades. The best system for me is Red DMT diamond hone followed by Hard Arkansas and then Translucent Arkansas. For the big knives, the 12 inch bench stones are best. For Clipped Bowies - you know the classic curved clips - I use a EZ-Lap Diamond rod followed by either a white ceramic rod or a Translucent Arkie rod.
I use the diamonds dry and the Arkies with oil. For a job where I have to reprofile I use the DMT Coarse (black) stone. I only put a wire along the edge (both sides) when I reprofile. I have found that a well ground blade doesn't need to have a wire put onto the edge every time you sharpen. Only when the blade gets messed up or damaged. I find that if you sharpen your knives frequently, just a touch up with the translucent is enough to keep them sharp, using the diamonds only when really necessary. Although I am an adept sharpener, I always screw up with the leather strops so I just abandoned that part of the process. Honing up to Translucent (2000 grit) gets my knives sharp enough so I don't have to strop. Although Im prefer Diamonds and Arkies for nostalgic reasons, I have also used the Spyderco ceramic rods and find them to work quite well. In the field I usually either bring a small diamond hone or rods. Each knife has its own sharpener which goes into a pouch on the sheath. I think rods are cool in the field because it gives you something to do when you're out in the sticks. I think the edge on the Busses are great, comparable to Randalls but Randalls probably have the best (most precise) grinds of all. Excluding Customs which can be all over the place. My 2 sense. Cheers, Alex.
 
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