Friction folders: How to?

Robert_Phelps

Robert_Phelps

Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
475
Does anyone have any information on making friction folders? I'd like to be able to make a couple folders, but can't afford to buy a mill (thus, the friction folder). I was wondering if anyone had some good drawings/pictures of what the pivoting part of the blade should look like, and what materials can be used for handles. Should a washer be used, and if so what are good washer materials? Can wood be used for the handle, or only antlers, etc..

Thank you,
-Robert :)
 
I can't help you much in regard to the Friction folder, however a mill is not really necessary for a linerlock or a lock back folder. (If these were your other options that were ruled out). Good luck with it!

~Brian
 
Robert, I make quite a few friction folders.First any material can be used for a handle, stag is just the most common.I am getting ready to do one with wood shortly.I don't have any pics of the pivot directly ,but I will tell you how I do it.You can make up a cardboard blade and handle to determine your hole location if you need to.It is not as critical as in regular style folders so don't fret.Generally an 1/8" pin can be used for the pivot. I have used washers and I used some stainless shim stock I had about .003" though they are not normally used by most makers.I now use a sized bronze bushing for mine.
If you are using an antler, I cut mine with a Dremel using doubled up reinforced cutting wheels.The tail end of the blade is up to you.I usually use another pin and notch the antler, but it can be flattened, forked, curled or whatever.Dave

Here's a few for ideas:

frfl2.jpg


frfllace21.jpg


frfl01.jpg
 
No glue, cut the pin about 1/8" long and have about 1/16" on each side. I then use a small ball pien and round over the head of the pin. Light touch because this is what makes it a friction folder.Dave
 
Dave, now im interested. how tight do you pien the pin down? how freely does the blade swing? do you use bumps to snap the blade open?
 
Dogpack,I peen the pin till the blade is snug and it shouldn't swing freely.Its better to be a little light on the hammer though because its easy to tighten up the pivot.Not sure what you mean about bumps. A quick push on the tail will open it up,provided your pivot is not too tight.Nice to see another local maker.If I can help, let me know.Dave:)
 
by bumps i mean the kind that snap a piece in place. bumps and dimples would be another method. the tension between the bumps hold the piece together. you see it with plastic molded kids toys. and thanks, maybe we can hook up. Ray
 
Blue_Dragon said:
Does anyone have any information on making friction folders? I'd like to be able to make a couple folders, but can't afford to buy a mill (thus, the friction folder). I was wondering if anyone had some good drawings/pictures of what the pivoting part of the blade should look like, and what materials can be used for handles. Should a washer be used, and if so what are good washer materials? Can wood be used for the handle, or only antlers, etc..

Thank you,
-Robert :)
Click to expand...

You don't really need a mill to make slipjoints. I have made 2 with a forge and files. All I had to go on was the book "The Complete Book of Pocketknife Repair" by Ben Kelly JR.

On this page
http://www.geocities.com/son_of_bluegrass/knives1.html
is a picture of the one I carry.

ron
 
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