Fromm Strop Dressing?

Fromm Strop Dressing is simply another marketed leather conditioner. It replaces oils in leather that is exposed to harsh environmental conditions. It's no different than 'Lexol,' Neatsfoot Oil,' or ordinary 'shoe cream,' etc., other than the way it is marketed (i.e. suggested use.) And the price.
It is NOT something that helps your sharpening process other than refreshing the natural drag of the leather, which, if you cover with compound, isn't something you'll have anyway! Strop dressing is something that helps preserve the leather.

But... I can't help wonder why the people who sell it suggest that users apply it every day? Leather is only going to absorb as much of it as it needs, and leather that isn't exposed to sun, rain, extreme heat, etc., doesn't need conditioning more than a couple of times a year at most. Used 'correctly,' a single bottle of Fromm Strop Dressing should last a lifetime or two. I guess the vendors figure they can make more money telling people to use it up quickly. It's not expensive, but even at $8-$11 a bottle, it isn't going to do anything more than a $3 tin of shoe cream.

Here's one other question about its use... If someone is using a wax-based block of strop compound, crayoned in, just how is this stuff supposed to penetrate the layer of wax that is coating the surface of the leather? Unless you apply it before putting on the compound, it simply will NOT really be absorbed by the leather. Instead, it will mix in with the compound on the surface. Or, that means, if you follow the directions from the vendor, you need to remove all the wax compound every day to apply the dressing every day. This is getting confusing...

Strop dressings are made for use on bare leather strops... I've never used any sort of strop dressing on compound-covered bench strops (some of mine are 20-30 years old and still going strong,) although I DO use it on bare horsehide or cowhide hanging strops 2-3 times a year. It's especially important to use some sort of dressing on hanging strops as they do get wear and tear just from the flexing while stropping.


Stitchawl
 
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Ah that cleared things up.

I have a few strops with compound that are glazed over with metal particles. Some of the strops are made with smooth leather. How can I remove this stuff without scratching up the smooth leather?(I've heard people use sandpaper on suede strops but never heard of a way to clean a smooth strop)
 
jcmv4792 said:
Ah that cleared things up.

I have a few strops with compound that are glazed over with metal particles. Some of the strops are made with smooth leather. How can I remove this stuff without scratching up the smooth leather?(I've heard people use sandpaper on suede strops but never heard of a way to clean a smooth strop)
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There are several options.
First, understand that anything that dissolves wax isn't going to be 'good' for leather, so a follow-up with some sort of strop dressing becomes imperative. It won't 'hurt' the leather, but it isn't good for it either. With that in mind, just use the cleaner sparingly! Pour the cleaner onto a rag and rub. Don't pour the cleaner onto the strop.

The following liquids, in order of most effective first, will clean your strop;
Stoddard Solvent (also known as 'White Spirits' or 'Odorless Paint Thinner') Buy it at an art supply store (small bottle) or hardware store (large can.) This is the very best cleaner!
WD-40 (because the carrier for the mineral oil in it is Stoddard Solvent!)
Naphtha (Ronson't or Zippo lighter fluid)
Coleman White Gas

There are others, ranging from the harsh gasoline, kerosene, toluene, to the most benign glycerin saddle soap.

As for sanding a strop, that will work. And it really won't damage a smooth leather strop other than cosmetically. It's not the 'smoothness' of the leather that's doing the work; it's the natural silicates in the leather or the compound on top of it that's making contact. Think of rougher surfaces as 'interrupted' (as in interrupted diamond sharpeners. ) Nothing other than a bit less surface in contact at any one time.

But there is no need to sand if you don't want to. Stoddard Solvent will completely remove all traces of compounds. But then be sure to really rub in the leather conditioner. Any liquid cleaner is going to remove natural oils from the leather. A few applications won't be noticed, but eventually that leather is going to dry out and stiffen up; loose its natural 'skin' elasticity. An application of ANY leather conditioner will restore those naturals oils. Just don't saturate the leather! A few drops worked into the hide with the ball of your thumb or the heel of your hand will be good for the next six months unless you 'wash' your strop with more cleaner.


Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
There are several options.
First, understand that anything that dissolves wax isn't going to be 'good' for leather, so a follow-up with some sort of strop dressing becomes imperative. It won't 'hurt' the leather, but it isn't good for it either. With that in mind, just use the cleaner sparingly! Pour the cleaner onto a rag and rub. Don't pour the cleaner onto the strop.

The following liquids, in order of most effective first, will clean your strop;
Stoddard Solvent (also known as 'White Spirits' or 'Odorless Paint Thinner') Buy it at an art supply store (small bottle) or hardware store (large can.) This is the very best cleaner!
WD-40 (because the carrier for the mineral oil in it is Stoddard Solvent!)
Naphtha (Ronson't or Zippo lighter fluid)
Coleman White Gas

There are others, ranging from the harsh gasoline, kerosene, toluene, to the most benign glycerin saddle soap.

As for sanding a strop, that will work. And it really won't damage a smooth leather strop other than cosmetically. It's not the 'smoothness' of the leather that's doing the work; it's the natural silicates in the leather or the compound on top of it that's making contact. Think of rougher surfaces as 'interrupted' (as in interrupted diamond sharpeners. ) Nothing other than a bit less surface in contact at any one time.

But there is no need to sand if you don't want to. Stoddard Solvent will completely remove all traces of compounds. But then be sure to really rub in the leather conditioner. Any liquid cleaner is going to remove natural oils from the leather. A few applications won't be noticed, but eventually that leather is going to dry out and stiffen up; loose its natural 'skin' elasticity. An application of ANY leather conditioner will restore those naturals oils. Just don't saturate the leather! A few drops worked into the hide with the ball of your thumb or the heel of your hand will be good for the next six months unless you 'wash' your strop with more cleaner.


Stitchawl
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Awesome, thanks for the help. I'm learning so many things I didn't know before about sharpening on this forum.

I do have a can of wd40, I'll go try that now, and lather some fromm dressing on it aftewards. Would this also work on diamond spray?(dmt diaspray).
 
jcmv4792 said:
Awesome, thanks for the help. I'm learning so many things I didn't know before about sharpening on this forum.

I do have a can of wd40, I'll go try that now, and lather some fromm dressing on it aftewards. Would this also work on diamond spray?(dmt diaspray).
Click to expand...

Stoddard solvent will dissolve most polar and non-polar compounds. But USE IT SPARINGLY! Rub, rather than soak.

Same goes for the dressing. Just a few drops will do. You don't need to soak the leather.


Stitchawl
 
Stitchawl says it all. I've been reading his posts for quite awhile now and know he's very versed in what he says and I have no reason to doubt him.
I'm sure I don't do all the things Stitchawl prescribes in strop maintenance but I also have found that the strops I've made not to suffer from my treatment or lack thereof. Experimenting, I've used rubbing alcohol (91%) and a wire bush carefully brushing in one direction. When thoroughly dry I may hit it with some sandpaper to smooth out any nap I may have raised with the brush. I have recently purchased a small bottle of Fromm's, which really restores, for lack of words, the leather's vitality. Btw, instructions of the bottle just says one application and reapply in 24 hrs. Stitchawl's right in the bottle lasting a life time. Anyway, take Stitchawl's advise, not mine. I use the phrase though, "more than one way to skin a cat." Mine is probably more bloody. :)
 
^^I've also used (once) some 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean one of my veg-tanned strops. At the worst, it did leave the leather obviously dry (alcohol will strip moisture out of anything); that may be some justification for applying some dressing or other treatment afterwards. Even then, for my purposes, it still didn't seem to impact the durability of the leather much, if at all. The drier leather was also notably firmer, and I felt it even improved stropping a bit, in the process.

Leather is some pretty tough stuff; I have to periodically remind myself of that. :)


David
 
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Obsessed with Edges said:
^^I've also used (once) some 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean one of my veg-tanned strops. At the worst, it did leave the leather obviously dry (alcohol will strip moisture out of anything); that may be some justification for applying some dressing or other treatment afterwards. Even then, for my purposes, it still didn't seem to impact the durability of the leather much, if at all. The drier leather was also notably firmer, and I felt it even improved stropping a bit, in the process.

Leather is some pretty tough stuff; I have to periodically remind myself of that. :)
David
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As I said in a previous post; "Strop dressings are made for use on bare leather strops... I've never used any sort of strop dressing on compound-covered bench strops (some of mine are 20-30 years old and still going strong,)"

You really see the benefits of a leather dressing on leathers that need to flex. As David says, cleaners will strip leather of its natural moisturizers, (as will heat and sunlight, salt, and rapid drying after getting wet,) and dry leather can crack when flexed. Saddles, bridles, harnesses, baseball gloves, motorcycle jackets and chaps, and of course, barber's HANGING strops... all leathers that flex and bend, or may get exposed to harsh environmental conditions in normal use. Re-vitalizing these sorts of leathers becomes imperative for their longevity.

Bench strops or paddle strops? Especially those already 'sealed' by a coating of wax? Nah.... These should be good for the next 50 years of daily use without ever seeing a leather conditioner. With an application every few years, they will become heirloom items.

I'm beginning to see in the Sharpening Hobby similarities to Divorce Proceedings...
In a divorce, a man and woman may be comfortable (not happy, but comfortable) splitting up, and able to work out an amicable agreement to divide property... then the lawyers get involved and what happens next is close to warfare, with the lawyers making a shitload of money 'advising' their respective clients of what is 'best' for them. In the Sharpening game, we hobbyists seem to be able to discuss our needs together comfortably... until the Vendors get involved 'advising' us of what is 'best' for us... and making a shitload of money selling us stuff we really don't need.

I'm not getting old and cynical, am I? :D

Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
As I said in a previous post; "Strop dressings are made for use on bare leather strops... I've never used any sort of strop dressing on compound-covered bench strops (some of mine are 20-30 years old and still going strong,)"

You really see the benefits of a leather dressing on leathers that need to flex. As David says, cleaners will strip leather of its natural moisturizers, (as will heat and sunlight, salt, and rapid drying after getting wet,) and dry leather can crack when flexed. Saddles, bridles, harnesses, baseball gloves, motorcycle jackets and chaps, and of course, barber's HANGING strops... all leathers that flex and bend, or may get exposed to harsh environmental conditions in normal use. Re-vitalizing these sorts of leathers becomes imperative for their longevity.

Bench strops or paddle strops? Especially those already 'sealed' by a coating of wax? Nah.... These should be good for the next 50 years of daily use without ever seeing a leather conditioner. With an application every few years, they will become heirloom items.

I'm beginning to see in the Sharpening Hobby similarities to Divorce Proceedings...
In a divorce, a man and woman may be comfortable (not happy, but comfortable) splitting up, and able to work out an amicable agreement to divide property... then the lawyers get involved and what happens next is close to warfare, with the lawyers making a shitload of money 'advising' their respective clients of what is 'best' for them. In the Sharpening game, we hobbyists seem to be able to discuss our needs together comfortably... until the Vendors get involved 'advising' us of what is 'best' for us... and making a shitload of money selling us stuff we really don't need.

I'm not getting old and cynical, am I? :D

Stitchawl
Click to expand...
Thank you. Great response.
 
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