- Joined
- Sep 11, 2010
- Messages
- 2,846
A couple months ago I bought a punch dagger from CM, the standard punch-dagger set up:
Double Edged, Chisel Ground
ATS-34 @ 59rc
3 3/4" OAL
1 3/4' edge length.
One mean motha.
It also came with a leather-over-kydex sheath, similar to his Lighter case, if you've ever seen his Youtube Channel.
Carry: It sits nicely on the belt, doesn't ride too high (a pet peeve of mine) and it is easily covered by a shirt as it extends no lower then a 1/2" off of the belt. With the closure snap and the thinness of both the kydex and leather, the flap is easily accessed, yet firmly held in place, something that is great for keeping it where it's supposed to be, yet available for when it's needed.
Knife in Action: I spent a while learning how to draw it quickly, and testing how it would react when punched into a target (layered cardboard). Draw time could use some work, but I feel that is more user error than equipment malfunction. Like I said the flap is easily reached and it is in perfect position to be grabbed and set in motion.
Being a leftie, the knife was held near my small of back, but on the left hand side of the belt loop common for jeans in the back. This allowed for an easily 3 step draw method.
1. Reach behind to sheath, with the palm facing inward
2. using my middle and ring finger to open flap, twist wrist and your fingers will naturally follow the curve of the leather and lead to the dagger.
3. Draw and prep.
Now this draw method could be improved upon if the sheath were rigged for scout carry, or horizontal S.o.B.
Target effect: once drawn I tested the knife on layered cardboard (layered cereal boxes 1/2" compressed, covered in duct tape)
Two things came to mind; The grip I used to hold this knife meant the blade would not be perpendicular to my fingers, which could lead to the knife being twisted out of grip. It also was painful to throw a full left cross into the cardboard as the force was focused into my fingers and a small portion of my palm.
Solution to the first problem: I have the ground facing inwards, this means that the higher path of resistance over the grind would force the knife to right itself in case there was a lateral force (think airplane wing)
Solution for the second problem: Either get some kind of rubber pad similar to other push-daggers and increase the palm surface area to help distribute/absorb the pressure, or toughen the f&%k up. the latter seemed to be more fitting.
Utilitarian uses: I cut a lot of boxes open, IE lots of tape. Now the grind on this knife is far from conducive for cutting with the entire knife immersed in the medium (Think Scandi ground knives) but the tip is sharp and thin enough to easily cut tape and open mail. Plus a modified grip, it allows for an incredibly controlled cutting edge.
Anything else and it would bind, but, you know what? this knife wasn't designed for cutting tape or opening mail.
Overall Conclusion: It is a well made punch-dagger, what else were you expecting? CM does great work, whether they be balisongs, Punch-daggers, straight razor folders, doesn't matter all great work and He's only improving. Now whether I carry this a lot or not is really dependent on where I plan on going. Obviously it isn't going to be my replacement EDC knife, but it makes for a nice companion alongside a 1911. Sometimes you just have to let your inner mall-ninja out.
Critiquing the design: Maybe add a couple lanyard holes in the sheath, I think it is prime for neck carry, opening the flap and pulling out the knife can be done in one motion, of course, a standard kydex sheath would probably be used instead of this one.
Maybe invest in some leather working tools, like an edger and one of those rollers that perforates the leather to even out the stitching. Really that's about all I can think of to improve on it. So Thank you CM for a great fighter!
Brets-ftw
Double Edged, Chisel Ground
ATS-34 @ 59rc
3 3/4" OAL
1 3/4' edge length.
One mean motha.
It also came with a leather-over-kydex sheath, similar to his Lighter case, if you've ever seen his Youtube Channel.
Carry: It sits nicely on the belt, doesn't ride too high (a pet peeve of mine) and it is easily covered by a shirt as it extends no lower then a 1/2" off of the belt. With the closure snap and the thinness of both the kydex and leather, the flap is easily accessed, yet firmly held in place, something that is great for keeping it where it's supposed to be, yet available for when it's needed.
Knife in Action: I spent a while learning how to draw it quickly, and testing how it would react when punched into a target (layered cardboard). Draw time could use some work, but I feel that is more user error than equipment malfunction. Like I said the flap is easily reached and it is in perfect position to be grabbed and set in motion.
Being a leftie, the knife was held near my small of back, but on the left hand side of the belt loop common for jeans in the back. This allowed for an easily 3 step draw method.
1. Reach behind to sheath, with the palm facing inward
2. using my middle and ring finger to open flap, twist wrist and your fingers will naturally follow the curve of the leather and lead to the dagger.
3. Draw and prep.
Now this draw method could be improved upon if the sheath were rigged for scout carry, or horizontal S.o.B.
Target effect: once drawn I tested the knife on layered cardboard (layered cereal boxes 1/2" compressed, covered in duct tape)
Two things came to mind; The grip I used to hold this knife meant the blade would not be perpendicular to my fingers, which could lead to the knife being twisted out of grip. It also was painful to throw a full left cross into the cardboard as the force was focused into my fingers and a small portion of my palm.
Solution to the first problem: I have the ground facing inwards, this means that the higher path of resistance over the grind would force the knife to right itself in case there was a lateral force (think airplane wing)
Solution for the second problem: Either get some kind of rubber pad similar to other push-daggers and increase the palm surface area to help distribute/absorb the pressure, or toughen the f&%k up. the latter seemed to be more fitting.
Utilitarian uses: I cut a lot of boxes open, IE lots of tape. Now the grind on this knife is far from conducive for cutting with the entire knife immersed in the medium (Think Scandi ground knives) but the tip is sharp and thin enough to easily cut tape and open mail. Plus a modified grip, it allows for an incredibly controlled cutting edge.
Anything else and it would bind, but, you know what? this knife wasn't designed for cutting tape or opening mail.
Overall Conclusion: It is a well made punch-dagger, what else were you expecting? CM does great work, whether they be balisongs, Punch-daggers, straight razor folders, doesn't matter all great work and He's only improving. Now whether I carry this a lot or not is really dependent on where I plan on going. Obviously it isn't going to be my replacement EDC knife, but it makes for a nice companion alongside a 1911. Sometimes you just have to let your inner mall-ninja out.
Critiquing the design: Maybe add a couple lanyard holes in the sheath, I think it is prime for neck carry, opening the flap and pulling out the knife can be done in one motion, of course, a standard kydex sheath would probably be used instead of this one.
Maybe invest in some leather working tools, like an edger and one of those rollers that perforates the leather to even out the stitching. Really that's about all I can think of to improve on it. So Thank you CM for a great fighter!
Brets-ftw
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