To answer your question directly, awestib, I have done that with my Bushfinger and plan on doing it with the rest of my Fiddlebacks as well (once I have some free time, as it is a bit of a time investment to do the initial re-profiling).
I have actually re-profiled my Bushfinger entirely, thinned out the blade all the way to the point, given the blade slightly more distal taper, knocked some of the metal off the flats to make them blend more seamlessly with the high saber grind and brought the edge up a little bit so that I have a bit of a finger guard. I am almost finished with this process, I am just going up through the grits to put a final micro-convex bevel and I'm still deciding how high I want to take the polish on the primary grind itself.
The only reason I did all of this to a knife that worked perfectly well was to repurpose it: I have turned my first Fiddleback, this Bushfinger I'm talking about, into my ultimate hunting knife and I plan to only use it for that particular purpose. It's special to me since Fiddleback knives completely opened my eyes to the world of custom knife making and, although I don't get out hunting more than a few times a year at most, I have decided to put this knife aside to use only on those occasions: hunting is a special experience to me and the knife is extremely special so I thought it's be nice to have one knife that was used only for that purpose.
I love the original Bushfinger shape and plan to get another one for general camp use some day when funds permit.
As for the rest, I do plan to work out the secondary bevel, take them full convex and then put on a micro-convex bevel. The process I've been using is slow but sure: 3M wet/dry sandpaper over a leather strop, starting at 320 grit and progressing up to 2500, then onto Bark River Black, Green and White Compounds and finishing on naked leather. I hope that helps!