Full convex grind or Norwegian grind? Your thoughts.

[Quy4n8]

Assuming identical steel and heat treat, which would perform better? I would have the Norwegian grind set up for an included angle of about 25 to 30 degrees. This would be for a smaller knife, (3-5 inch blade) used for general cutting tasks; i.e. whittling tent pegs, slicing edibles for camp, cutting cardboard, cleaning deer or fish, etc.; in short any normal fixed blade cutting activity. To go with cutting performance, would edge holding be significantly different? For most cutting tasks, edge rolling most likely would be more of an issue than actual wear, I think.
It seems that as long as you don’t let them get too dull, convex ground might be easier to sharpen, using the cardboard trick, but could this also be done with the Norwegian grind? What about if for some reason you let the knife get pretty dull, which would now be easier to sharpen? My guess is that convex would overall perform slightly better, but I am not sure. What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Richard

 

[Andy_L]

I don't find either a problem to sharpen. Convex would be a bit stronger but over a long time I think the other sabre grind would be easy to deal with. Covex tend to be better at food prep but not quite so good with wood

 

[EdgePal]

If you live outdoors for longer times, and sharpen your knife by hand, you get automatically a sort of convex edge on your knife. The human hand can’t do it better then that. And that is fine, convex edges works better then straight when you live outdoors.
The problem outdoors is straight edges, it is very hard to get them really straight by hand. The convex edge is more easy to make by hand because you always get about 3 degrees variation on the edge when you sharpen the knife by hand.

The convex edge is better outdoors – but what is outdoors for me – and for you? Outdoors for me is when I live outdoors for 3-6 month (sometimes more) at the time, and my knifes is the only tool I have with me.

If you talk about a hunting trip for a week or two, the problem is not so big I think, take care of your knife, and the edge is working nicely during that time – if you do not make the edge to sharp from the start.
A razor sharp knife do not work for outdoor life, it get very fast dull and useless. Can you use the knife for shaving = it do not work outdoors. A knife shall be as sharp as it need to be for the task. It is very seldom you need a razor sharp knife outdoors. If and when you need a razor sharp knife, make it razor sharp to solve that specific task, and get it normal again afterwards. That is my experience after many years of outdoor living.

Razor sharp knifes is for shaving, for knife makers and for knife exhibitions. Outdoors they are more or less useless. J

You talk about a sharpening angle between 25-30 degrees. I recommend about 23-24 degrees for a outdoor knife (smaller size) and 25-26 degrees for a bigger knife for harder work, (Scandinavian knifes are often smaller in size (about 10 cm) and they have lower sharpening angles (about 20 degrees) then other country’s knifes.

Regards
EdgePal