Full height grind technique for 8" chef's knife

M

MtnMan1964

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Jan 5, 2015
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I have made a number of knives of various style in the past 18 months, but all relatively small and not with a full height grind. Momma wants an 8" chef's knife which will be much taller (aka wider) at about 1-7/8". Most of these type of knife designs (including the factory made one in my kitchen) have a full height grind. I have always put grinds on by hand (ie, not with blade clamped in a tool to steady it as it is slid across the 2 x 72 belt grinder). Today I took the 8" chef knife from my kitchen and simulated pulling it across the grinder (with the grinder off) to match the existing grind - knife edge facing up, belt traveling downward). My two fingers on the spine (bottom) of the knife get REALLY close to the belt. Starting stock thickness of the 440C will be 3/16" and the final max spine thickness should be about 1/8" at the handle. Thinner out near tip due to distal taper which is planned. So, not a lot of spine thickness to hold the knife when putting on full height grind if I try to do it by hand. Is it more common to make a tool and clamp the blank in the tool to make a grind like this? Thanks in advance for your advice.
 
The use of magnets to rest your fingers on is helpful in the situation. Rare earth are extremely strong and they keep your fingers off the belt. I use a Bubble Jig grinding kitchen knives so have a handle on the tang side.

Fred
 
I don't use anything other than my finger. I let the spine rest on the thumb side of my pointer finger. I have a friend that uses a thuck piece of leather over his finger.
 
One technique I use is my index finger under the spine, but off to the side away from the belt/platen. Use your 'pressure' fingers or thumb in the middle of the platen and keep them there as you move the blade. Work sections at a time. It's really difficult to make a full pass until you get closer to done. That's when the nicks really start to happen too as that blade gets even thinner. It takes a little practice, but you can keep the grind even once you get the hang. I highly recommend you do 2 or 3 blades on your first attempt. By the third you'll be pretty good at the grind. Kitchen knives are difficult, but you probably know that.
I can't tell you how many bloody fingers I had learning. You'll grind your finger tips and nails and learn all kinds of little lessons. In the end, you'll get it and not have any bloody fingers to show.
Why 440c? I'd recommend AEBL if you have a choice.
 
I grind the tip separately from the rest of the blade. One hand holds the tip, the other holds the handle. No problem. For grinding the tip I hold the blade with both hands while I grind the tip.

Chris
 
Check out the Rhino finger skins. I bought myself a set. They're cheap, you can still pick up small parts and you won't burn your finger tips off!!! They're definitely worth the investment 👍🏻
 
i do it all the time and use nothig but my hands the "sharp " edge of the spine digs into my index finger morethen you would thinkand yo can keep you hand out of the way of the belt (i start with 3/32 thick stock not 3/16 ) it takes time but youll get the hang of thin full flat grinds
 
I followed Salem's lead after reading his website and use a push stick. My push stick is typically about 4 inches long and 1 1/4 high with a small "shelf" for the blade to rest on. The shelf gets ground off as the blade gets thinner. No finger issues and great control. I also make full passes most every time.
 
Not really much different from flat grinding any other blade. You just you need to go slower, especially if the steel is already hardened.
 
using a magnet, or magnet based holder apparatus is great for maneuvering your blade around anything that grinds! I ground some fingers early on and one of my first 'dedicated knife tools' was a magnet holder I bought from USA knifmaker or Texas Knife supply--it's a piece of wood with magnets inset into one side and is probably about 5" long--I use it a lot to this day.
 
Do you have a work rest with a slot cut in? I never grind freehand anymore. The work rest is my best friend. Here's an example of what I do:

[video]https://youtu.be/1kq5YUxb3OQ?t=3m3s[/video]
 
NickBoyle said:
Check out the Rhino finger skins. I bought myself a set. They're cheap, you can still pick up small parts and you won't burn your finger tips off!!! They're definitely worth the investment 👍🏻
Click to expand...

Agreed. I get mine straight from Laurence when I sell him wood. They are great to use.
 
I've been using a post type tool rest. No more finger into the belt and I can more easily follow the curve of the blade than I can when using flat rest.

[video=youtube;g9tXxf36qUs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9tXxf36qUs[/video]
 
MtmMan1964: It's all about control Your hands and mind. Think before You do. For longer and thinner blades use sharp belts, slower speeds and less pressure. When You'll do a mistake it is easier to repair it. I use push stick with little "L" shape at front side. It is useful for hold blade at position. Yesterday I grinded one fillet knife (almost identical to this one) with free hands. Blade is about 7" long and thickness is about 0,08" at ricasso to 0,015" at tip. It took Me about 1,5 or 2 hours just because I used old dull belt.
 
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Thanks to all who replied, especially NC Biker - great tool idea for the grinder rest. I built something similar, and purchased the bubble jig from Fred Rowe. Viola. Perfect full height grind on an 8" chef's knife on my first try. Brock47 - as far as using 440C goes - I am only 18 months into my knifemaking journey. I decided to stay with 440C as I learn. Thus far I have made mostly kitchen knives and 440C has great corrosion resistance. Yes, there are some newer steels that are likely incrementally better on edge retention. However, I know how to heat treat 440C well now. The other factor was cost - as I make mistakes in the learning process, it is less expensive to do so with 440C than ABEL, CPMS30V, CPM154, ELMAX, etc. Thanks again to everyone for their great suggestions.
 
I tried to post pics of the grind and of the tool, but "cut and paste" on photos into this post does not seem to work. Ideas?
 
MtnMan1964 said:
I tried to post pics of the grind and of the tool, but "cut and paste" on photos into this post does not seem to work. Ideas?
Click to expand...
You'll need to upload the photos to one of the free hosting sites like Photobucket Once you upload to a hosting service, they will give you an address to the image that you can use to post here using the insert image menu on the post editor. Just click the URL tab and enter the address Photobucket gives you. It will start with http://

I'd love to see what you came up with, hope this helps!
 
MtnMan1964 said:
Thanks to all who replied, especially NC Biker - great tool idea for the grinder rest. I built something similar, and purchased the bubble jig from Fred Rowe. Viola. Perfect full height grind on an 8" chef's knife on my first try. Brock47 - as far as using 440C goes - I am only 18 months into my knifemaking journey. I decided to stay with 440C as I learn. Thus far I have made mostly kitchen knives and 440C has great corrosion resistance. Yes, there are some newer steels that are likely incrementally better on edge retention. However, I know how to heat treat 440C well now. The other factor was cost - as I make mistakes in the learning process, it is less expensive to do so with 440C than ABEL, CPMS30V, CPM154, ELMAX, etc. Thanks again to everyone for their great suggestions.
Click to expand...

MM,
It all depends on the technique that works for you, Some like a push stick, other build all kinds of jigs etc..

I almost always do a FFG & I like grinding my blades after HT and running my thumb down the middle of the blade, as I work the tang, So I invented my finger skins. PM me your address and I will send you a set no charge, so you can see if its for you?

I never take mine off when I'm in the shop cause its just better to have have some protection on the index and thumb cause those are the two that take the most hurt in out line of work.

Also, don't let anyone Diss 440C. For Culinary, its an excellent steel, I have Paul Bos run it up to 60-61 RC and Cryo treat it.:thumbup:

It was the first stainless I used back in 96 and I'm glad to have it still in my line up along with AEB-L and the CPM stainless steels.

My 2 cents at least 2" at the heel of you are using 3/16" I use 1/8" or 3/32" thick and 2 1/4" or higher.
Thin is in!

Like Butch said, You'll get the hang of thin full flat grinds!
 
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