- Joined
- Apr 14, 2011
- Messages
- 168
After experimenting with my new EdgePro Apex over the past few days, I've found that it is every bit as good as advertised. Naturally, being something of a sharpening geek, I wanted to see if I could lightly modify the system to improve the already stellar results I've experienced thus far.
Others have said that the stock EP stones leave something to be desired due to their slow cutting and propensity to "load." I wondered if it would be possible, or worthwhile, to use my full-sized waterstones in place of the EP stones.
I have a number of good quality Norton and King waterstones, which I've been using for freehand sharpening and honing my straight razors. The finish I've seen come off of my EP so far hasn't held a candle to the mirror polishes the King stones have put on my other blades.
In another thread, a member with far more expertise than I on the EP (changeofseasons), suggested the use of a drill bit stop collar to help maintain consistency between EP stones and ensure a perfect matched angle. See here for particulars. Based on the same principle, I decided to use the stop collar to allow a transition between the EP stones and my full sized stones. I had no idea if it would work or, if so, how well. Let me just say, I am incredibly happy I tried it -- the results were astonishing!
I unscrewed the ball on the end of the stone arm and removed the brass fitting to allow the stone clamp to extend such that it would accommodate a large bench stone. After I made sure my stones would fit and clamp securely into the assembly, I went about using the stop collar concept to replicate the angle I had used for the EP stones. I flattened my large stones then, using a sharpie to check and adjust, I discovered that it matched the angle exactly! Here's how the setup looked once I had my stones clamped and the bevel arm adjusted. (forgive my messy workspace and the camera-phone-photography)
I then went about sharpening my Cold Steel Recon 1, which I carry and abuse regularly. Set the angle to 20* per side. The abrasive progression went something like this:
I can't begin to tell you how happy I am with the refined edge on my blade from having used this little trick.
There are some things I probably could change, namely a better progression once I switched to the Honing film and sprays, rather than such a huge jump. The other thing I'm going to have to be watchful of is ensuring that my large stones are completely flattened before each sharpening (they seem to wear more quickly, as their entire surface isn't used when sharpening on the EP.
I would love to have some feedback on potential improvements to this setup, pitfalls, or thoughts from others who may have tried/used this setup. I can't imagine that I'm the first one to try this with the number of great sharpening minds we have on this forum.
Please forgive me if this is a duplicate of someone else's post -- didn't find anything similar during my brief search.
Thanks for reading!
- Pete
Others have said that the stock EP stones leave something to be desired due to their slow cutting and propensity to "load." I wondered if it would be possible, or worthwhile, to use my full-sized waterstones in place of the EP stones.
I have a number of good quality Norton and King waterstones, which I've been using for freehand sharpening and honing my straight razors. The finish I've seen come off of my EP so far hasn't held a candle to the mirror polishes the King stones have put on my other blades.
In another thread, a member with far more expertise than I on the EP (changeofseasons), suggested the use of a drill bit stop collar to help maintain consistency between EP stones and ensure a perfect matched angle. See here for particulars. Based on the same principle, I decided to use the stop collar to allow a transition between the EP stones and my full sized stones. I had no idea if it would work or, if so, how well. Let me just say, I am incredibly happy I tried it -- the results were astonishing!
I unscrewed the ball on the end of the stone arm and removed the brass fitting to allow the stone clamp to extend such that it would accommodate a large bench stone. After I made sure my stones would fit and clamp securely into the assembly, I went about using the stop collar concept to replicate the angle I had used for the EP stones. I flattened my large stones then, using a sharpie to check and adjust, I discovered that it matched the angle exactly! Here's how the setup looked once I had my stones clamped and the bevel arm adjusted. (forgive my messy workspace and the camera-phone-photography)
I then went about sharpening my Cold Steel Recon 1, which I carry and abuse regularly. Set the angle to 20* per side. The abrasive progression went something like this:
- EP 120
- EP 220
- EP 320
- EP 600
- King 800
- King 4000
- King 6000
- King 8000
- Chinese 12k polishing
- 1 micron Honing Film
- 0.3 micron Honing Film
- 0.25micron spray
- Plain leather
- 0.050micron spray
I can't begin to tell you how happy I am with the refined edge on my blade from having used this little trick.
There are some things I probably could change, namely a better progression once I switched to the Honing film and sprays, rather than such a huge jump. The other thing I'm going to have to be watchful of is ensuring that my large stones are completely flattened before each sharpening (they seem to wear more quickly, as their entire surface isn't used when sharpening on the EP.
I would love to have some feedback on potential improvements to this setup, pitfalls, or thoughts from others who may have tried/used this setup. I can't imagine that I'm the first one to try this with the number of great sharpening minds we have on this forum.
Please forgive me if this is a duplicate of someone else's post -- didn't find anything similar during my brief search.
Thanks for reading!
- Pete
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