The biggest trick I can impart on folks is to make a shallow hollow in the tang when they shape it. Use the corner of the contact wheel to gouge the center of the tang a bit. It doesn't need to be pretty, and it doesn't need to be deep. It only needs to be .01 or so deep to make a big difference in the fit. leave a 1/8-1/4" margin around the recess. The tang then can be quickly flattened without fear of rounding the edges....because all you are sanding is the edges. I do the same thing with the underside of the scales prior to flattening them, too.
Obviously, you need to mark where the scales will fit before grinding the hollow in.
This also creates a shallow reservoirs that allows some epoxy to remain, no matter how hard the clamp squeezes the scales to the tang. The number one reason for scales popping loose from the tang is a glue starved joint.
When fitting a one piece handle to a stick tang, use the same basic technique. Chamfer the handle end around the tang hole back from the edge, leaving only a small rim to contact the guard. Making adjustments will be quick and easy when only the perimeter is touching.
Another trick for fitting a stick tang handle once the chamfer is cut is to use a pencil and darken the rim. Place the handle on the tang and press firmly against the guard, giving the handle a little twisting motion as you press....just a few degrees of twist left and right.
Remove and look at the rim and the guard. The pencil mark should be rubbed off the handle in the high spots, and there should be a mark on the guard where the high place sat. A few light strokes with a file will quickly get things to a perfect fit.
On both handle types, the glue up will be easier ,and have as near perfect fit as possible....... because all the clamping pressure is applied to the perimeter, not the center.
Use just enough clamping force to hold the handle in place while the epoxy cures. Over clamping can cause the scales to lift at the ends or sides, and can make a full handle on a stick tang shift to one side.
