Funky Cold Patina

meako

meako

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Sep 4, 2006
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Remember a couple of weeks ago I dyed the Case Large Stockman from Amber to Cherry red.
There was an issue with the saltiness of the dyeing solution causing pitting /corrosion on the CV blades.
Here is an update of what is happening with that.
20151121_224253_zpsi9cakcyb.jpg

With a bit more use I think these marks will gradually fade in to the patina.
The dye is all good. There was no effect of corrosion on the springs or bolsters.
 
Most redheads have spots. Looks natural!

Is that a Tupperware of gummy worms?
 
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I also found that out the hard way. My peanut has a nice little pit in it from a Rit dye bath. I had a nice solid patina on the main blade already and had to start it all over in order to sand some of the rust out 😩
 
Man, that dye job sure does look good! I really should try that soon...

I wonder if you could coat the blades in nail polish to protect them from the dye. Depends on how acidic the stuff is, I know nail polish is used as a poor mans resist for acid etching, and I've personally used it as a resist for electro chem etching(making makers marks on knives).
 
How long do you have to keep them in the bath for? I was considering doing this due to Meako's picture in another thread.
 
If you use a stainless steel Case would the salt be an issue? The dye job looks great. OH
 
I did a Steel Warrior once and just dumped the entire thing in the dye. It's didn't mess with the stainless at all. If you are going to do this with carbon steel, it works better if you open the blades and suspend the knife handle in the dye. That way the blades are not reacting with the salts. I just used a piece of balsa wood and jammed the blades through. I can't remember the time frame though. Maybe 30 minutes?
 
I doubt the saltiness would be an issue for wax! Maybe if you dipped the blades in paraffin, or wrapped them in tissue paper, then dipped them (to give the wax something to hold on to) it might work? Then again, I'm still working on my first cup of coffee, and have NO idea if the dye bath is hot or cold. Just a suggestion from someone who had to do Batik YEARS ago. Have a great Sunday everyone!
 
I think stainless would not be affected the same way.
Not sure that any wax or other coating would stand up to being boiled.
Just checked and the Case saddle trapper I dyed black a couple of years ago using the same method is stainless and did not have the corrosion issue.
 
Bone should Not be boiled or for that matter soaked in water. I Have ONE word, FIEBINGS.:D

Best regards

Robin
 
That handle sure is beautiful though, even if the blade got a few marks out of it.
 
Pipeman said:
Bone should Not be boiled or for that matter soaked in water. I Have ONE word, FIEBINGS.:D

Best regards

Robin
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Robin,
Owing to the good results I have had with with boiling and soaking of bone handled knives in water -salty dye laden water to be precise-And the fact that the bones in my body at least are encased by a watery mush of flesh and blood -I would politely ask out of interest and in the interests of learning ,why you say not to.
My process involves immersion and boiling and simmering but not like being dumped into a vat of seething, emollient fluid on a rolling boil and left to cook like grandmas veggies until all flavour and hope are tipped down the sink at the end. This may be only relevant to those of us with English grandmas.:D

cheers.
 
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Bighaze51 said:
I did a Steel Warrior once and just dumped the entire thing in the dye. It's didn't mess with the stainless at all. If you are going to do this with carbon steel, it works better if you open the blades and suspend the knife handle in the dye. That way the blades are not reacting with the salts. I just used a piece of balsa wood and jammed the blades through. I can't remember the time frame though. Maybe 30 minutes?
Click to expand...

I like that idea but it would involve a lot deeper pan of liquid than I used which basically only just covers the knife lying in the bottom of the pan. I'll try it next time -there must be a way.:)
 
I've used the RIT stovetop method a few times with Case knives. It has caused no problem with any of the SS knives, though the two CV-bladed knives I have tried it on developed some minor pitting. I tried protecting the blades with a coating of Eezox first, but it still got to the spines. Oddly enough, it didn't cause a patina to form just a few small pits that weren't there before. Polished up the blades with Simichrome paste afterwards and a light coat of oil and they have not had any further issues. But I won't try to dye CV bladed knives again using that method.
 
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